Wardski

I dunno, when I launch mine off the lights its certainly not so "serene" inside the cabin as you say. The forces and vibrations on that initial start is quite overwhelming I almost soiled the drivers seat the first time I did it. That being said when I'm cruising around town, other than the siffer than average suspension you could almost be mistaken for driving a car with the same level of comfort as a BMW M series. For me I totally love the look and feel of the GTR. Its like nothing I've ever owned (Subaru STi and Lotus Exige S included).. The fact that I can throw the kids in the back and groceries in the boot is the best part for me (as a family man) my 3 yr old lad particularily loves the performance and handling aspect

Uggghhh The pre 2011's had a dash uglier than a mofo.. And 0-100 in 4.3sec no thanx.....

Wait.. what?? Any decent secondhander GT3's are well into the 200's... After driving both, I think I'd take my chances with the GTR. At least I can have my track days, and throw 2 kids in the back comfortably.. Family SuperCar FTMFW!

Moorooka Nissan had no issues. The boys down there have looked after me very well, although not the cheapest dealer in Aus. Some dealers will negotiate. To be honest, sales have been slow this year with a lot of uncertainty in mining/oil/gas jobs. So, you can always try.

1. Gearbox issues exist across the range, although with the 2012 and 2013 there have been very slight modifications along the way (strengthened shift forks, circlip redesign, solenoid manufacturer changes, etc. The 2008/2009's are the worst, I have a 2010 and no issues, although the 2011's and up have revised LC software that does smoothen things out. Nissan wont flash the latest LC software on the older models, so we have to use a COBB AP to get that (if we need). I've found with my 2010 that Nissan can tweak a few things to iron out some of the jerkyness (probably just touch points), although I have to admit that the recent trans and diff oil change (first one since purchase), this has made a MASSIVE difference to driveability. 2. No extended warranties offered in Australia thru Nissan (Allianz). There are aftermarket warranty extensions, but these are dealer specific. 3. Midpipe changes are not known to cause Warranty issues. I got this in writing from my dealer in Brisbane prior to having the willall titanium midpipe installed (by my dealer) during the replacement bellhousing warranty repair. 4. Depending on where you live, what year GTR you buy, Willall is the beez kneez. I wish they were based in Brisbane (they're in SA ), but not to be. If I go down the route to make any major mods to my GTR, I'll be shipping mine interstate to get the best people working on it. 5. Price Negotiation, well this really depends on the dealer. I actually bought my new 2010 (last of the new 2010's left in Australia at the time) from Magic Nissan, WA in November 2011. It had been sitting in their showroom for 12 months and only 43kms on the clock. Price started out at $150k, but then negotiated down to $138k including CEVAs shipping to me in Brisbane. They also gave me a great deal on my 09 Subaru STi Spec R which I owned 100% outright and in showroom condition. AFAIK, they were keen to sell as the 2012's were on the way and needed to make room for them. They also had a new 2011 (blue) in the showroom at the time, which sold about 6 months later for $159k to an interstate buyer.

Not far behind you mate, getting mine done this Friday. Will wait for them to do it.. Not leaving till its done

And Hong Kong after they pay their 45% first rego tax on new ones..

This thread just made me LOL

Same. Got my letter on Wednesday. The issue for me is running the car out to Moorooka wastes about 3 hrs of the working day for me. Going to see if they can do it on a Saturday so as to minimise the inconvenience.

Same here, had the 30,000kms service yesterday, oil smell on startup and when arriving home in my garage.

I good mate of mine has just installed an AVO Turbo kit to his 86. Was easy to RWC, mod plate and done. Don't know why you say its not so easy, maybe other states, but in QLD no issues.

Haters will be haters, he's just trying to sell more Mercs.... Believe anything Top Gear says with a grain of salt. Its all just advertising.

Few things 1. Tyre condition - check the inside wearing as depending on camber setup (street or track) the tyres may be almost gone - especially if there has been track use... 2. Trans replacements - check the back of the service manual for any new trans serial nos 3. Servicing - Make sure all the services have been done. GTR's typically do well below the kms in the log book but the services are also date dependent. I remember when I was looking at 2010 GTRs 15 months ago, most of the personal sales had ~6000-10000kms, but never followed the servicing manual and warranties were void. 4. Check the stitching on the front seats, especially around the air bags - this is a weak point depending on the size of the previous driver. 5. If its a private sale, I'd have a Nissan GTR tech check it out prior to sale - the backyard boys doing RWC's for these cars have no idea. 6. Check the paint. Anything that looks out of the ordinary (bubbles, different shades, different colours at angles compared to adjacent panels, etc) as the GTR could have been crashed or in an incident. 7. Ask the owner if a Cobb has been used or any aftermarket mods... A Cobb AP with aftermarket tunes or LC upgrades will void any warranty left on the car - that is if you car about wty - Some private sellers will swear the car is stock and never modded, but that's where Nissan can help - they will tell you if it has been flashed previously. 8. Ask if any aftermarket oils have been used. Some GTR owners use their own gear, or stock replacements like Willall, etc. This can potentially void warranties (hit n miss) in the case where transmission failure occurs, and aftermarket oil is found. If I can think of anything else - I'll let you know.

Saw 5 in a row @ the Gap, Brisbane

Weather permitting, I'm in

The whole problem stems from FP taking too long to deliver the initial job, allowing the owner to consider other options along the way... TBH, the owner changing his mind isn't a good enough excuse for even the worst welding job known to man. I could have done a better job with two hands tied behind my back and my a55 cheeks holding the mig.

I reckon my 3yr old could have done a better job...... So glad we have Willall..

Go Willall.. won't be disappointed - plus the weight! I thought the box was empty when mine arrived from SA

All GT-R's cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ sooner or later whether it be mods or out of warranty repairs

Makes you wonder if switching from LC2 to LC5 with the renew kit did anything bad to the tranny..

Interesting, must be that time of the year

jesus..........

I think you're right, but they say the same about the Bellhousing and dash cluster lights.. So far I've had the Bellhousing replaced, and in the long run, I know I'm probably being over-cautious but I'll be using the warranty as a break-in period then spend up on some serious gear later

If you want more than just noise out of a midpipe a tune is the way to go. But you don't need a tune par say, to fit a midpipe - its all post 02 sensors so no noticeable extra power.. I'm reluctant to tune in order to keep warranty should the tranny ever go (shuddup Domino! ) but post warranty I'll be sending the beast southward to willall for the full 09/10 renew kit.

For all round useability, you'd have to go Cobb.... Everyone I know modding with cars these days use Cobb.. My mate Rich up here with a gunmetal GTR uses the Cobb on his 2008 JDM and it really shows up the stock mapping. His midrange power curve is crazy, especally considering the rest of his car is stock and with 57,000+ kms..