D.I.Y. Mik

Good luck......... For R32 there are no aftermarket kingpin bearings. I searched a long time and found Nitto (the maker) dont stock them or make them anymore. They were a special order for Nissan. Only Nissan and $$$ and a scary bit when they use an oxy to get the old ones out. If its out, i suggest taking it to a bearing shop and you will soon find out. With any luck, they made the 33 common size bearings, not special order. They can take a while to arrive from Japan, so dont destroy the old ones till you get them.

Adjusted the drivers door. Passenger door is fine. Which is nice, cos i had to take off the guard to do it. Took a chip of paint off the edge and a small scratch up top. Oh well sht happens, im not really bothered, considering the old paintjob had about 6 chips and 3 or 4 scratches. Might touch it up with a little brush, maybe after its buffed, dunno, it doesnt really matter. Scratch might buff out too. New rear swaybar bushes are in, front were wrong, so im waiting for them. New shift detent springs ready to go in, and brass bush to go on the shifter, but i sealed the top up with something real good, it doesent leak anymore..... but i cant get it off. Tme for the prybar and mallet.

Front or rear seal? I remember there is a crank seal removal tool. But i cant remember how much you have to take off to do it. The seal is pulled out, and a new one pushed in. I cant remember if its for a specific motor or what, maybe you cant do it on RB30, but its might be worth checking out. Potential buyers should investigate this too.

Lots of "things" have been started by just a finger

Washer bottle fitted, new sway bar bushes going in next, old ones are out. The front D bushes... i just put all that stuff on, only to have to take it all off again to get to it. Doh! Window net brackets gone, much safer, but i have big gaps chopped out of my trim. New (actually second hand) ones arent easy to find, maybe ill just fibreglass and re-cover the old ones.

Some like to cruise in their lowrider and some want to race at the track. We all have different taste. I probly dont like your fav colour, but who cares? So "what fits" is up to you. Do what pleases YOU. Just bought some LEDs to go with my new candy green....... And im old

Radius rod brackets fitted, removed brake backing plates and fitted new air deflectors.

Nice wide powerband by the looks of it. Thats faster than a big peak. I dont think peak power matters, its the band of revs you use from gear to gear that makes you go fast. Radius rod brackets fitted, removed brake backing plates and fitted new air deflectors. Bleeding brake fluid as well while im at it. Those vacuum bleeders dont work because it sucks air in through the bleed nipple thread and i know there is an air bubble behind the nipple now. A remote controlled foot on the brake would work the best................... Invention time.

Thanks guys! I cant wait to get it all polished and back together. 3-4 weeks at least though oh well, plenty to do in the meantime.

Yes, its a good idea, acrylic is very soft. I wonder if they make clear vinyl wrap........ Might get the good stuff done by a pro if i can. A few small bits shouldnt cost much to get done. Im thinking the front and back faces of the skirts, and the front face of the rear pods. Maybe the black lip on the front bar too.

Thats actually black, only shines gold in the sun. Gold ghost pearl. I couldnt do a large area with pearl, as its very tricky to make it even, only the pros can do a whole car with ghost pearl in the clear. Want to buff it but i cant.... Gotta wait.

Its ok guys im just taking some pics i wont damage anything. Its just that they wont look as impressive as when its all buffed and back together. But hey, its a build thread and i like to show what its like throughout the process. Wheres the sun gone... ill wait for direct sun to get the metallic and pearls showing

3 or 4 weeks Maybe ill start rubbing it in 3 weeks and finish buffing by 4 weeks. Dont want to wait at all but thats the way it goes. And yeah, i got a couple of runs in the colour, they were easily fixed. No runs in the clear. Being a commercial painter helps, using the gun is only a little different to a brush, a steady and precise action.

Okay ill get some photos tomorrow. But its still in pieces, and its not very glossy. I have to wait for it to cure before buffing. Because its acrylic paint.

Acrylic. Gotta wait for it to cure. If i knew how to set up the shed for 2 pack before i did it, maybe i would have gone 2 pack. Not keen to ever strip it back to metal again, so any re-sprays will be acrylic. If i ever get another one ill go 2 pack for sure.

Sprayed some black touch ups, and some gold pearl on the black bits. (mirrors, bumper lip) Its black in the shade and gold bling in the sun. My respirator filters were a bit old and didnt work too well. Nasty stuff, i dont feel too good. So i decided rather than buy new filters everytime i want to spray something, ill make a constant air supply mask. Easy, all i need is some small ducting, and i have everything else to make it.

Nearly one week curing, i pushed my fingernail into the paint thats under the bodykit. Its still very soft, i will have to wait at least another three weeks or more for a good cure. Maybe ill start on some other things, as long as i can do them without touching the paint.

You know they will have to take out the dash to re cover it. Cant blame you for not wanting to do it though.

Yeah i thought so. Yours is a nice clean GTR, not a whatever bits fits GTR. (like my gtst- anything goes!) Was thinking youd need a pro to fit it properly anyway. But theres a price, at least you know it should likely cost a bit more than that for a good job. I have an old crappy dash im keeping, one day ill make a mould from it for a carbon dash. I think its 3 or 5 grand or something for one. DIY money saver, maybe make a few and sell some.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BLACK-LEATHER-DASH-DASHBOARD-COVER-FITS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTS-GTR-R32-89-94-/390843095063?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

Well obviously you cant remove the sensor and have the warning light working correctly. You could try earthing the wires to the old sensor and see if the light goes out. But its nice to have the backup warning. Theres nothing wrong or overdoing it with two sensors. The aftermarket gauge wont work off the old sensor so you might as well have both working. The only tricky bit is plumbing in the sender somewhere its going to work properly. Theres a couple of options i know of: a remote oil filter adaptor with sensor ports, or a t piece where the oem sender is. Theres a few tutorials in the DIY section. How about oil temp? Might be a good idea while your down there.

Rob is the master of motivation. Now the paint is on, im back in the game......... I got a big box of goodies saved up to fit during curing time.