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D.I.Y. Mik

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Everything posted by D.I.Y. Mik

  1. Sanding........ endless sanding..... Ill get there eventually.
  2. Hmm...... thinking about how the car is blocked very well. No guide coat or anything. I really should just prime/seal and then colour. I have spent a lot of time getting it real nice, im sure its good enough. I have made a lot of primer into wetsanding sludge on the floor, enough. New list: Finish skimming and sanding plastics (done), then tape off the 3 damage areas on the car. Finish 3 damage areas (skim, sand, prime, sand, skim, sand, prime, sand, etc untill perfect) Prime plastics, and guide coat Clean and mask car Prime car and guide coat Block everything in 800 ( 12-18 hrs ) Fix any remaining imperfecions Clean everything, mask car Spray prime/sealer Rub with 800-1000 Clean and mask Spray colour Rub with 1000 Clean and mask Spray pearl and clear Wait a week or more to cure and harden Rub with 2000 and buff - Assemble car (forgot about this one!) Detail window trims, wheels etc. Ps: The plastics were not straight as i thought they would be. There was some warpage in spots and they arent perfectly flat anyway. They required some finessing to get them nice.
  3. Id ring Toyworld first. Ring the model shops, they might have one.
  4. No, you mean the shortcut method? I need an even coloured base for the colour, so no rub throughs to other coats. That means a coat of primer/sealer (thinned out at least 50/50) with the roughness rubbed off with 800 or finer. To fill the minor imperfections i need a thick layer of primer/filler (not thinned out much) and sand it flat again. Heres a list of what i need to do to finish. if i can do one thing a day ill make it to Shannons open day. Finish skimming and sanding plastics, then tape off the 3 damage areas on the car. Finish 3 damage areas (skim, sand, prime, sand, skim, sand, prime, sand, etc untill perfect) Prime plastics, and guide coat Clean and mask car Prime car and guide coat Block everything in 800 ( 12-18 hrs ) Fix any remaining imperfecions Clean everything, mask car Spray prime/sealer Rub with 800-1000 Clean and mask Spray colour Rub with 1000 Clean and mask Spray pearl and clear Wait a week or more to cure and harden Rub with 2000 and buff Detail window trims, wheels etc.
  5. Havant had much time to do anything lately. Back into it yesterday, got the sanding of all the little bits and skimming scratches and chips done. Got a plan for the door (metal strip guides), its going ok by the looks of it. Bodys all skimmed and sanded, ready for next coat. Except for the 3 major damage areas, which will get several coats of putty and guide before there ready. Will cheat and just use a whole dropsheet with 3 holes cut out and taped up where im working. Then i have a decision to make: - Lots of primer and block sand again with 800, then primer/sealer and rub with 800. This will be a better finish. - Or primer/sealer and rub with 800 then colour. This will have some defects, but save time. (about 20 hrs) How many and how bad the defects are is the gamble.
  6. Should be finished by then. Will come and show it off, if i am finished. Good timing.
  7. Hmmm..... untill you get bored, and get online for something to do. Hope to still see you at events and stuff. You got my details if you ever need any thing/help/tools.
  8. "Dont call me buddy, guy."
  9. For sure, garage and padlocks. Problem is when its gone theres no one to kill. Its too late. Like finding your car with the window smashed for stealing the stuff inside. The bastard has long gone and your left standing there feeling angry and powerless to do anything about it. So never leave it for long if you take it out. Its only about 5-10 seconds for someone to smash the window and steal your phone. Lock up people, and avoid the sadness. Ps: what is a key safe? is it a place thieves know to look for important keys? Put your safe into thick concrete with reo. When i was 12 in Melbourne our house got broken into, they used power tools to get into the garage and steal dads stuff. You gotta make it hard for the bastards, I lock up tools and cut power to the shed.
  10. Pedders Belco is very bad. Try Capital Steering and Suspension in fyshwick. Or..... old bottle jack + steel + welder = press.
  11. Slow. Not much time last week to do anything. When i did have time it was freezing cold and i thought getting all wet from sanding wouldnt be nice. Got back into it last night, did a bit of sanding on the skim putty. Looking at the door... the crease loses definition around the middle. Also the bottom "fold" is not sanded straight. I think i can do it by taping a strip of alloy to putty/sand against, and get a nice straight line. The rest is coming along well, only bonnet and rear guard need work and its not tricky, just more skimming and sanding.
  12. Putting some fine putty in the scratches and tiny lows. Bonnet, door, and that rear guard look bad but actually only need a skim to fill the holes, edges and other small lows. The shape of the crease on the door is not good, from a profile view. It needs some fixing. Tricky stuff ill have to work out a way. Maybe using tape or something.... And the rear guard........ thats our little secret, dont tell anyone how much bog is there. Getting there, slowly but surely.
  13. morning... Yawn Up late sanding... oh man ill be glad when its done. Only one front guard to go. It will be the last blocksand. Thank the son of rajab for Espresso
  14. No. Better get onto that. Once i have decided on the green, i have to experiment with the pearl. I will do a test panel (spare guard) to see how much to use.
  15. Only a guard and door to go.... oh, and plastics. Good thing about the plastics, they wont have dents, only scratches and chips, which can be filled with skim putty. Should be able to get it all with skim putty now. So touch ups over the putty and a nice thin prime/seal coat on everything. Hit that with 800 wet and its ready for colour. And yeah, some details on the rear guard need to be sanded too. I think ive used about 7 litres of primer so far, thats why its filling all the little imperfections and its coming up so smooth. There are some interesting things you see when blocksanding, like the slight high spots that show, from where the spot welds are underneath. And the edges of some parts have a slight high lip, from the pressing of the steel when they made the panels. However... there is a slight low (from factory, its the way the guard was pressed) over the rear wheel arches, extending up past the crease, id like to fill it so the back is totally straight like no other skyline. But its very hard to see and would be very hard to fill perfectly. Ill have to think about that one.
  16. Thanks guys. Just wanted to show people what it takes to get a perfect finish.
  17. Bub wanted to get up at 5 this morning..... Lucky he did, i found water spreading across the lino floor. One of the fishtanks is leaking. Emptied it out, fish in a bucket, took it outside. Good excuse to get rid of it...... dont tell the missus i said that. less fish time=more skyline time Anyone want a pair of Angelfish?
  18. Laugh, the Ferrari or GTR badge is not a sacred thing in my opinion. If you think it is..... you may need to carry anusol wipes when you go out. For your butthurt. Maybe respect the people who designed and made the GTR and not a logo.
  19. The old Austrian guy i used to work for had some ideas about that, using well tested solutions. He said "put a sign that says work makes you free! haw! haw! haw!" Sick sense of humor. But very funny. Its kinda weird how they say what was done (Auschwitz etc) was wrong, but they asked for it. Anyway, i guess living in Canberra i just take it for granted that some sht will steal or vandalize the car. So im very vigilant and never leave it out the front at night. Some areas i dont even like to let it out of sight for more than 5 minutes. I always think about where to park thats the safest when i go out. Dont forget to report your stolen goods, Cops regularly check Cash Converters and pawn shops.
  20. Its horrible! Like real soft wet chewing gum. Find some guys cladding an office building and get some of that tape, holy sht its good. Bunnings have a Sikaflex assembly adhesive, black, nasty and messy, real good at sticking. Flexible, so it wont crack. Problem is its expensive and once opened it goes off over a few weeks, no matter how well you seal it. I have a now solid tube of it in the shed. Original battery tray, i glued with that, needed a prybar to get it off.
  21. Thats part of it, but if you blame the substance does the jerk get away with it? People are to blame. Substances are an excuse for them to behave however they want. Or just a result of them being lazy,selfish fkwits anyway. Thats why they do it. No mercy. Ps theres plenty of us who can behave when intoxicated, you still know right from wrong when your blind drunk.
  22. I can see why they charge so much for a good paintjob. Show car quality is about 140-200 hours of work plus materials. When you examine the process, its very hard to cut time or stages from the job, so even a cheap paintjob done properly is not cheap. Even doing the easiest possible (not spraycans) paintjob id say at least 50 hours.
  23. Wet sanded the bad bits with 400. Coming up a lot better than i thought it would, now im confident the rest will be good. Like the drivers door i thought would still be bad, but the crease at handle level only has a slight wiggle and a nick. Thats about 10cm of guesswork as it had a long shallow dent there. There also seems to be a slight ripple on the flat underneath, very hard to see, it will sand out with some more primer filler on there. The old "wet the panel and look" works well for spotting imperfections. Patience helps too.... 3 hours to sand a door and a guard correctly. 18-20 for everything.
  24. Yes, theres about 12 or more different bits that can be the cause. Its a total pain. I hate how one bit looks like the problem, but its actually another bit that makes the first bit loose. Feels like chasing your tail sometimes. Even the experts can have trouble, from personal experience.
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