D.I.Y. Mik

Found it again......... This is a good example of how some machines can become more than just a machine. And you can dance in the sky......... viva la France

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-CT110-/121282416423?pt=AU_Motorcycles&hash=item1c3cfecf27&clk_rvr_id=592413976704 Go!

they were untill China Yes they are sooo crappy, they are supposed to be cheap as chips, but we only import and comply them for Auspost. So there is a limited number in aus, and the demand for junkmail delivery pushes the price up. Farmers get them, but these are uncomplianced. And usually the ag version. There is a new one out now, i dont know if its improved. The maintenance on the old ones is constant, as they are under engineered. But for mail delivery you HAVE to have the double gear lever and auto clutch.

Dont know why you want one...... They are expensive for what you get BUT They are the only thing good for postie style work. ( i spent about a year delivering junk mail on one) Nothing else can do it like a ct110 If you want it for riding to and from places, there are many cheaper better bikes.

Whats up with the guard roller? Has it been passed on to the next guy who needs it? Have you finished yours? I just filled the lumpy bits with bog. A warning to those who use it! You get to a point where theres another skin folded in there and it wont flare as much as the rest. So you get a step, which has to be hammered out/in or/and filled. Omg that rear quarter is so fked up. That much area was lumpy from panel beating. The rear part of the wheel arch has lost all definition. Will have to copy the other side. And a crappy version of Sins old cf bonnet, a half-assed copy in fibreglass.

Never used good body filler before, always was cheap sht. I used to dread the bog sanding. I love pro body filler! Its so easy to work with and edges feather nice. Now i feel free to shape it as i please. The rear guard is fully covered again, when i started to bash it out i realized its been work hardened, and about to tear and split. Its had all the bashing it can handle. So it has to be re bogged, i dont feel confident cutting it out and welding in a new bit. If i could find a new bit.

All traces of paint gone (where im gong to spray) original nissan primer is tough stuff, edges done, panel beating done. A quick wash and wipe with prepsol then its ready for body filler and etch primer.

If theyll sell you some, that would be awesome, i rang and asked already. They said no.

The rubbers can be fixed, they are old and hard and can be sanded back, maybe thats why the soda did that. The plastic bit in the back window seal is fked anyway, i might cut it out and do a bead of sealant in the gap. So in hindsight, you can sand just as close or closer than you can blast, and blasting lifts the rubber and leaves crud under there. Im glad i only did a couple of spots, ill have to clean behind the rubber to get it sitting flush again. Its good for getting paint out of the tight corners, and probly good for cleaning small metal parts Its not working properly, the guy sent a bag of the wrong soda, so it clogs up. It works with constant shaking, but thats kinda hard to do while your trying to use it. I cant get blasting soda in canberra that i know of, and the car will be primed before the right stuff turns up....... Maybe ill do the old wheels or something.

So i guess some of you have heard about soda blasting...... Its not as good as people claim. It does chew at your plastics and window rubbers if your trying to remove paint.

Still removing paint. Just needs the window frame edges cleaned up. I can sand very close, but theres still a line of paint. Waiting for mini soda blaster for that and plastics. So it will be totally bare and clean before etch primer.

Spotted the young fellas car on Gumtree..... http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/chifley/cars-vans-utes/1996-nissan-skyline-gts-25t-black-manual-coupe/1038902049

Alcohol is a drug. Just being cheeky.... dont take me too seriously. But remember this one? "I wish i listened to what my mother told me when i was young." says arthur "Why? What did she tell you?" asks ford "I dont know, i didnt listen!"

Nice.. does it sound better? Did some sanding, getting the edges of the windows cleaned up. Buzzed out the old bog. That rear guard is pretty bad. Now... to think like a piece of sheetmetal, its the only way i can beat it back into shape. Having a subconcious understanding of the material and process can be a shortcut to skill. I found out when i used an oxy welder for the first time.

Doh! (facepalm) Because internet told me only one place, total tools. Will search better next time. Curious, how much do you sell them for? Others may be interested as this compressor is the biggest on 10amp (regular domestic power plug)

Id like to point out its quite small. It wont run air tools, like a sander or grinder. It can just run a rattle gun enough to get the wheels off, but you have to wait for it to fill up after about 5 seconds of rattle gun use. It cant get the flywheel bolts off, not enough air. Its ok for filling tyres, blowing dust off small areas, airbrushing. What else can you do with a small compressor? Not much. This is my solution: http://peerlessproducts.com.au/products/single-phase/00257 Peerless p14, its the most flow i can find on 10 amps. 275lpm, thats nearly 10cfm! And heaps quieter than the SIP This sucker will run everything i want, ive wanted a good compressor since forever.

yes, no worries.

Pressure reading would be almost instant, oil doesnt compress much. As long as theres no air in the line its an awesome solution.

I bolted mine to the left rear seat bracket mount, the one on the trans tunnel. Its a bit tight to get your fingers and the buckle down there, but it works.

My old compressor for sale: $50 Direct drive, 2hp, 240v, Italian made. Quite small, only good for little jobs. Selling because ive upgraded to a P14

There is an easy way for rb 20 Dunno if rb25 is the same I decided that the sensor is going to get pretty good accuracy, but take an extra 2 or 3 seconds for the temp to get there. Fluids are good at transferring heat. Even though its not in the stream of oil, it works very well.

Yes it must be dark, and i have those volks....... Its a difficult colour to get right and be real nice, but ill have a go. Just a shade or slight tint off can make or break a colour like that. The lime green is ok for 17yr olds

Green Poison ivy (a new holden colour), in acrylic, so not exactly the same, with a hint of gold pearl.

Metal! Now i can be this guy: "Just give us the gas and walk away" And then i found this: Which is much closer to reality, i will paint.

Finished the messy bit, and cleaned up all toxic waste, Yukky paint stripper. Careful not to contaminate myself or anything, poison S6 is bad stuff. And some fibreglass repairs/mods.