D.I.Y. Mik

Cement rash on your back? I get that if wearing a t-shirt. One piece is nice if balanced well. Gives a good solid feel. Sounds like your ironing out all the creases, and doing quite well too. My solution: a nice big 650cca in the boot connected with 0 gauge cable to a big gold plated terminal block in the engine bay. Make a nice fat starter cable and earth. Use the best terminals. And extra earths everywhere. But if im not driving it for a few weeks it still drains, i have to disconnect it. Fully discharging a car battery seems to fk them. Especially if they are a few years old. Disassembled cleaned and sanded the side mirrors. Everything else cleaned or dusted off, whole garage dust blasted out. Ready to tape up again, hang plastics, prime again monday.

Yeah they are rolled, and straightened. I didnt roll them real well, they were a bit lumpy.

Filling and sanding: Had to grind out the bonnet in those spots as there was some old black paint making the primer split and peel. Couldnt be stuffed fiddling around for hours on the "Skyline" and the grooves on the brake light surrounds. Dont need stupid little detail sht like that. Fiddly bits dont look good, look at a new Holden. Trying to get the rear to match the bar: Makin a mess: So theres the start of trying to get it straight and smooth, a lot more work to go. Oh, and i got a new spraygun, dads isnt working too well. Might give it a service now i have instructions. Another thing id like to point out is that im not much good at panelbeating, its quite a skill, those guys dont get paid enough for what they do. So im just using heaps of body filler, that rear guard should really be cut off and replaced, after the whole car has been straightened on the chassis aligner.

The bike always had Michelin, they were the best at the time. I found Pirelli bike tyres weird, they werent the right shape/cross section. And Pirellis didnt last. So were only good for particular sport bikes that liked that shape. Maybe they were for v twins like Ducati, but they were terrible on an inline 4. Cars arent so sensitive to the shape/cross section, as car tyres are fairly square, but they are slightly different between brands. People dont think this is as important as compound and tread pattern, but it makes a huge difference in how it feels. Think about a Ferrari or similar: Mid engine, and very low cg. Tyres for that car wouldnt suit a Skyline as well as it could. Its very tricky to find the BEST tyres for your car, and you can spend a lot on something thats not so great because its not suitable. Anyway mr know it all did some sanding, bogging, more sanding....etc.

Want good advice? Heres where im learning to prep and spray. http://www.youtube.com/user/restolad?feature=watch

Eventually they will. All those guys from my youth who were bad to the bone are in jail or dead. Some died in stolen cars in high school or college. Vic police got one in the back of the head. Thats what i realized at 15. Eventually it catches up with you, your behavior dictates the circumstances you are in. In other words: you asked for it. Try to be happy instead.

From what ive seen theres different reasons why some kids are like that. Some are frustrated and take it out on society, others are born or raised as assholes. Scientists have proven that animals are born with personality, so its actually true that some people are born jerks. Some will learn from a beating, others will learn if you go and smash his bike in revenge. I remember as a naughty kid, there were various situations with parents. I would get in heaps of trouble if caught, but my parents were always at work. My mate over the road would also get in trouble, but his mum was single, overworked, overstressed, and actually not well health wise. Another mates dad was a truckie, always away, and his mum was stupid so we could easily fool her. Then there were also those guys that seemed to come from a family of fkwits, and their parents didnt seem to care what happened. So often the kid will get in trouble if caught, never know your luck.

Has anyone tried it or clever people know about its effects? I have been searching around for different cooling solutions and found this: I have doubts as to the effectiveness of the air chillers, not enough surface area? And how does chilled fuel effect the way the engine runs? Its a very different way of doing things compared to the old return line fuel cooler. I can see the intercooler one being effective because of the large surface area to transfer heat. But its also very easy to make a water spray with the rear window sprayer which wouldnt be as cold but can work well anyway. And im also wondering, what would it be best suited to? Circuit racing or drags, maybe hillclimbs? Sorry about the same word over and over, wheres my thesaurus?

Its a modular system, so you get the bits you want. http://www.designengineering.com/catalog/cryo2-system-components almost eveywhere else is cheaper, ebay, summit etc, dunno why.

Some serious gear. Would suit the Sinista. Thats the system i can find i think your talking about. I like the air chillers, what a cool idea. And how the leftover gas cools the intercooler is neat. The others are return line fuel coolers and water/meth injection. Which keep temps under control, but not actually chilling it. I cant find anything about how long a bottle will last on the CryO2 system, but there is the throttle switch option, which would save heaps of gas. Seems to be more of a safety for the engine and a small power gain. Worth it for a well built RB26 $$$$$ On a 40 degree day this would be real peace of mind. And would out perform any other turbo car. You could have a bit of fun with that... put a Nos cover on the bottle and have a purge line.... "Yeah man i got nitrous"

First block sanding done and the sludge washed off, now for a bit of filler in the lows and prime again. Some things i never saw before block sanding, like minute highs from factory spot welds. The crease on the drivers door is dented and will be quite tricky to make it right, its gotta be dead straight or it will stand out. There are very long ripples on top of the left front guard, its like two lows over the whole length, so they end up being flat spots on what should be a gentle curve. How the fk can i fix that? Even a very long block follows the lows.Guesswork sculpting with bog? Ill have a go at least. Some bits are quite difficult, but thats half the fun i guess. Its just work if theres no challenge. Like sanding the roof, its a bit boring cos you dont have to think much about it. Sanding the doors requires correct technique and attention, the learning of new skills is pleasurable, its hardwired into your brain as part of our survival skills.

Would like to know what kind of cooler you decided on. You always do a lot of good research on these things.

Deatchwerks are the go for a painless fuel pump install. And they arent loud. They fit exactly in the cradle and the wires are real good. Just unsolder the old ones off the tank lid and solder the new ones on. They have the fuel proof insulation and a plug to go in the pump. That company is cool as they make upgrade bits to fit like oem bits.

No, the balancer is reverse thread. As far as i remember.

Body looks ok, would have to see it up close to be sure. A nice straight shell is always worth a bit, and good to have. Fire damage looks superficial, no real damage, weird though it looks like someone made it run again, coilpacks, blue hoses etc, no soot on them.

Coooool! Bloody good idea by the way.

I have them already 17x9 +35, federal rsr 235/40 front & 255/40 rear, guards lipped to fit. And a bit of bog to smooth them out, cos im not that good with the guard roller. Might go with a 50 profile next set of tyres, more grip.

Hunting the perfect base colour....... The gold pearl will lighten it up slightly, so i have to pick a darker green for the base. The aim is to get it no lighter than Holden poison ivy, a little darker would be perfect. Toyota spruce green 6v4 looks nice and dark, but it has brown in it. Looking for a real dark green thats not brownish. There are so many to look through, any suggestions would be welcome.

Started sanding, gotta be careful and let the guide coat do its thing:

Got the good soda blasting media. Now it works much better, i can control it. It can be used to remove paint and not damage rubber, if its on low pressure and you use it carefully. Taking paint off plastic without damage is much harder to do, if not near impossible. But you can carefully remove a layer at a time, leaving some primer over the plastic. Because the new soda flows much better, i can turn the pressure right down (35psi) and it still works. This gives the control needed to clean those bits carefully. Also theres a lot of work just to clean up and make sure the "skyline" in the rear bar is straight and neat, (how the fk am i going to buff the clear in there?) i might just fill it. Dont really like that kind of thing anyway. Little detail bits and grooves etc, just trap dirt and wax/polish, and only look good if they are all perfectly aligned and stuff. I think ill fill the grooves in the tail light surrounds for the same reasons. Thinking about how the skirts and pods are just glued to the side of the car. I hate how sht that is and i might rivet or screw them on tight so theres no gap.

R32 kit ready? Gtst or GTR? I want an R32 gtst kit.

Someones been reading my private book of ideas and inventions. Bastards! Actually its a logical step that im sure thousands of people have thought about putting together. Still.... its rather annoying someone else did it first. I named mine Blimpjet.

lol.... first guide coat

fist guide coat:

Primer filler: Guide coat tonight and peel the tape. Then the long process of block sanding: filling, sanding, more primer, sanding, sanding finer, and finer again. It will keep me busy for a while.