D.I.Y. Mik

Intercooler sold.

Fibreglassing repairs today, all done. The instructions say mix a certain amount so you can get it on before it hardens. DIY Miks painting skills mean i can mix the whole tin and get it on good, well before it starts to harden. job done. I was feeling so good until i remembered... the only way to get fibreglass off is a cold shower.

Happy Australia day!

Some stuff for sale: R32 fixed mounts for race seats. Meet cams standards, and have seatbelt buckle mount. Both sides $140 ea ARC filter box for 32GTR $80, 32 aircon system complete $50 Old intercooler, no leaks $20. Various silicone pipes and joiners, more than in the photo. Flanges are sold. Sensor for aircon, outside air temp. $10 FREE tins for nuts & bolts or whatever, take as many as you want. All metal with sealing plastic lid. And various bits- New Bosch 040 (intank) fuelpump $100 rb20 injectors $20 clear side indicators $10 Driftworks castor rods(one dodgy rose joint) $50 rb20 afm works fine $40 old rb20 turbo $40 HKS ebc (dodgy)$10 some 0 gauge cable $10 Alpinestars mx armour xl $40 hicas bypass kit new $20 washer bottle $5, radiator res $5 Turbosmart v port bov & flange for rb $50 filter relocation mount metric thread + 2 sensor ports $15

Its not the gasket. My guess: It is an oscillation of the diaphragm, because the setup is different on a gtr, the pressure settings for open and closed arent right for gtst. The throttle flap is much closer to the bov on rb25 and 20, so it would react different when you shut the throttle on an rb26 with throttle bodies closer to the head. This is also relative to where the bov activation hose is located. So its probly a pressure wave that is going just the right distance (or wrong distance cos its not right) to make it open and shut so quickly.

Gold. Its a good investment. Killed a very big fat black widow making a home under the front left guard. The thing might have bit me as i want to work under there. Saw it yesterday, found it dead today after gassing it last night. Im very relieved but a bit edgy, i keep feeling things crawling on me. Arachnaphobia.

RB20? They say it has an oversize idle circuit. When the thingo leaks its like a boost leak. That thing under the fuel rail that controls idle or cold start or something. I cant remember the name of it.

Well thank jeebus the hot weather is over. I can move again, and be outside during the day. Whiteline do rubber too. Hardrace have the option of hardened rubber, but its mostly arms n stuff with the bush already in it. Also stay away from rose joints or pillow ball joints, they suck balls, and wear very quickly. Bastards need replacing in 6 months. Yes i wasted money on that crap. Thanks Driftworks, wankers.

Rubber is better, even for racecars. It takes up the shock and vibration without getting loose. Also John at Trojan sold me those volks for $600. Was $800 but he couldnt get a part or something so i got a discount. He is very nice. $800 was a bargain anyway.

More jobs for the thread repair guy Just make a list, get them all fixed at the same time, so its only one callout fee. Did nothing to mine today.... too hot, later tonight when the little terror is asleep, ill take off the rear bar, tailights, do the last of the vynil stripping and the door rubbers have to be carefully removed. Then its ready for final clean and de-waxing, especially the edges and where the rubbers were. The list of sht to do, to prep it for paint is very long. Lets see how far i get before the missus realizes what im doing.

Pulling it apart, no cruises or track days for a while. Might as well do it while its so hot. So ill see you's when its done.

See Jezza on the drums http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-XrNiFtMuo But John Williams is the best ever. He can pluck Satriani and all that with one finger. Classical uses all 5.

I have seen this 32 and its very tidy. A good straight body, with panel gaps all even. Id say its never had a big hit and been repaired.

Some of you may have a new cheap pressure washer this year. They seem to use the same fitting between a few brands. At Masters hardware they have Bosch (not the old one), scorpion, ar blue and something else, anyway, the problem is it wont fit your accessories. And you cant yet buy an adaptor for it. I found a way to fix it so you can use that new foam lance or whatever. So thats the fitting (black) and the old Bosch style fitting (brass) Just machine back the flange like this: It doesnt have the long bit for the spring to push it back into the lock, but you can do it by hand and its good. No leaks. Not loose. Problem fixed. Now i can........

Got the foam lance working. A little machining did the trick. Nice and foamy, its a very nice lance, with adjustable fan and detergent. Ready for bodywork and sanding.

Good, its too hot anyway.

Just think this looks like a decent shaped wing section. The mounts are probly sht, i can make new ones, but its easier than making the whole thing. Would be track day only, not for street. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-UNIVERSAL-ALUMINUM-BLACK-GT-WING-GT-SPOILER-001-/260674000479?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb161965f

Started the stripping down. Skirts, pods, doortrims, mirrors, doorsills and seal gone. Got to take off the rear bar and wing, then i can wash everything. Im going to try black in the doorgaps and under the boot, its already under the bonnet and in the engine bay. That way i dont have to do so many coats where its going to be a pain, eliminate runs, also i can leave the doors, bonnet and boot on. Also all the "utility areas" like in the wheel arches and underneath will be black. "Raceday" bits will also be black: vented bonnet and guards, diffusers (gotta make em first) and a big wing. Ps: Thats like my old Celica, thanks Hotwheels. same colour too. .

Best wishes, and good luck. Enjoy Melbourne, its a great place. The vic crew will be nice for sure, Melb has a reputation for being more open minded. Also lots of good tracks in Vic.

Good trick: pull over for 5 minutes. And wait for a nice long gap in the traffic. On my coppins runs i wait and keep an eye on the mirror. Once plenty of time since the last car has passed, you will get a good run.

Ahh yes i remember grinding the mount. The bellmouth is ok to fit, the jjr stainless split dump is a real pain because of less clearance and access to the nuts/bolts. Like those ones on the engine side are a pain. Anyway, good it went on easy.

Forecast 38 for the 17th Far out thats hot. Wont be much fun. Seems like the hot weather is here, i might just start stripping the car down and paint it.

Who had that rusty coolant pipe problem? I found this: http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/Parts-Shop/uas-chrome-molly-upper-radiator-outlet-intake-manifold-76.aspx

On the motorsport thread, people have said the BC suspension is cheap, and performs like a cheap one. Id say they would be fine for the street, but real good stuff is faster on the track. I guess it depends on what you want to do. Ps: i went around Wakefield for a couple of laps... so now im a racecar driving expert.

"Plus believe it or not I can be IMPATIENT :P" Hahaha! i know the feeling. Paint it? FJ20: That looks very tight. turbo 1uz......