XGTRX

Totally agree. Driving style is another. How long is a piece of string. If your at a tight track you may suffer but at a faster track it may be perfect. Set up is about compromises and wont be perfect for every corner. Just keep trying to get your lap-times down. I would be listening to Roy before i go touching the engine.

A lot of people in Melbourne with big HP Setup only use Jim's clutches. Wouldn't look elsewhere.

Also got six original coilpacks for rb26 in perfect working order $150 ono

Agreed. Clutch, cams and brakes annoy me the most for street driving on a heavily modified car. I know people who have sold high-powered cars for even weekend-only driving because you cant have fun in it driving around the 'burbs. Hit boost in 2nd and you're already speeding and stuck behind people. A friend of mine sold his 420kw MA70 supra just because he couldnt have sensible fun in it without major repurcussions. "Bring on an NA" he said. NA cars are no better if there not set up right. I have both and a hi stalled cammed LS2 is great to drive in peak hour because the torque is low below 2500rpm. My 33 gtr is also great because torque is delivered progressively up to about 3500. At 4000 in the NA where the converter flashes to and from 3500 in the 33 all hell breaks loose ha ha. Just the way I like it. Both need to be driven with light progressive throttle in traffic. Both brilliant allrounders.

What's your definition of street? If it's daily peak hour and cruising your better off being off boost and having a compliant clutch. Then you can have any power level you want because you will never use it. Clutch is the big thing though or you will get over it very quickly. Getting off the lights quick will be just a matter of knowing your car and even at partial boost you will still be quicker that anything else on the road and no wheel spin.

Someone make an offer need these gone. All items are near perfect condition.

Fact is - it's not. Once it's on boost (4500rpm or so), the ONLY reason it rips through the gears, is because the diff ratios were changed. Can't believe the last 6 pages, talk about rubbish... Suppose we should not discuss or try to help someone who asks for advice or opinion with some innocent banter in between. Oh well sorry. Didn't mean to distress anyone. So where do you suggest we discuss different twin setups? Maybe a forum is not the place. Can you suggest anywhere else?

Please elaborate.

Stock motor means stock internals rebuilt or not. -9s if you don't want to rev it too much to stay on boost. But there are a lot of guys with - 5s on stock engines but not sure how they drive. It all comes down to how much coin you have. But this is where you need to speak to a good engine builder to weigh up your options and listen to them

Ha ha ha ha

Love lag that much I need to get myself one of these

Ha ha ha. You crack me up.

As you noted yourself piggaz the mines drop off it's happy zone in one corner, the rest of the lap it ripped the supra to shreds and would have done the same to any Setup with 7 or 9s. Period. End of discussion. That's final.

An RB 20 with a T88 ain't laggy either if you drop it from 11ty RPM and keep it on song. Exactly

If all you are talking about is lag the only difference between a stroker and 26 is about 1000rpm, so you need a 26 built that is happy to sit at 7k+ on a consistent basis. At the right revs at wot there is no lag in any engine but it has to be built properly to put up with it.

so your saying it's a "bulldog between gears" (which IMO is what you want) but a pig from standing start? Not when you launch it from redline a 26 is not laggy and when your changing gears at 7.5 k there is no lag. A 26 with -5s has to be driven a certain way to be raced properly and the motor has to be built properly for this purpose to be reliable. -9s on a stock motor is a much better setup if you don't want to kill your motor.

1. R33 GTR Nismo 320km/h white faced 116,174km excellent condition with slight very light surface scratches on the face that some plastic polish can get out. Perfect working order. Only reason for the sale is that wanted to go black face. All globes included. $500 2. Stock intercooler great condition $150 3. Crank angle sensor. Perfect working order. $ 300 Any questions post here. For any offer pm please. Thanks

Mph doesn't lie. Dynos do. Just a tuning tool remember... and good marketing tool if its calibrated that way.

By the mph about 240-250kws at the wheels

Here is a simple one but there are more elaborate one if you search HP to mph. http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php

Nah haven't got one. Take it down the strip soon and I will see what mph it pulls. That will tell me what power it puts down. Old school way and most accurate IMHO.

Yeah agreed but I think if you have the cash ready for a build and you pick the builder then you have to test his product. When I went in his customer's car with- 5s it was a bit laggy so my engine builder said it had another exhaust manifold in it and was Setup for top end. So he set mine up for for much better response. Point is that if I didn't have this baseline to go off then I would never have had the experience to discuss what my needs were and he couldn't customise his build to my needs.

Fair enough. But I think any engine builder who has been in the game for a long time would be able to sort out the dreamers from the serious customers. If mine called me I know he needs me to help a serious customer to make a decision on Setup not if they are going to go through a build. I wouldn't hesitate if I received a phone call because I have a great relationship with him and the many enthusiasts at his workshop. Its like a family. But anyway that's the way I did it and that's the advice I gave to the guy that was posting about what Setup he should go for. But everyone is different. All cool.

Must be a different to yours then because that's what I did. If someone's going to hand over $20k for a setup and not do this and know exactly what they are getting, then good luck to them.

Let me be clear because I think I wasn't clear enough. You pick a reputable builder, you tell him you not sure what you want, he says he has done different builds / setups. And he organised those customers to come down and take you for a drive. You have a chat to them as they drive the car in different ways. You experience the car and the set up. You compare to the next one and you make a decision. If the builder has not got this relationship with his customers I wouldn't he handing over my hard earned cash.