XGTRX

They won't give u 1500$ in labour for free to change turbos Obviously not. But They will have customer cars that you can go in and experience multiple set ups. That's what I am saying.

So your point is that the fact that because there is partial boost through your daily driving rev range makes it better to drive than a Setup that comes on all the time. Is that right?

To answer the question... no nothing will get damaged.

Brake cooling ducts

When it totally gave way it was like rattling a can of bolts. luckily it happened in the driveway and I switched it off straight away. When my engine builder took the sump off to send it off for the extension he just shook his head. The 4th piston bearing was dislodged, rod was free and piston was wedged in the bore. There was more metal in the sump than oil. Ha ha classic.

Ants wrote; ...I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG! Ha ha the best. I was driving around with a spun bearing for 5 months until it eventually went bang. Last 2 months it sounded like a tractor. As soon as I heard the bearing a put slick50 in it and it lasted for 5 months. Everyone was shocked including me ha ha. Used to drive 50 kms a day on the ring road carpark and other drivers used to look in amazement at the knocking sound coming from my 33.

Lower than that for both but remember boost is not a switch things happen way before full boost. And your producing the same power as -7s with- 5s way before full boost all the way to 7.5k and then when you change gears your always in the sweet spot. But as I said drive both and see what you like and then make your decision. Any reputable rb workshop will allow you to experience multiple setups they build if they see your serious.

Agreed.

Didn't answer the question.. why the doubt? I am offended.

So your saying if I am running 25lb then I am not making 20 at 4k?

I'd hope not - my GTRS's were on full song @ 5.5krpm.When I had -5s, the turbos were getting tickled at about 3.5krpm and pretty were in 'get up and boogy mode'. Both examples on 2.6ltr. Sounds about right.

Think I am running low 20s at 4k. Don't quote me on it though.

Right foot governs your speed not the car.Plus it's easier to drive in traffic with -5s that are boosting aggressively from 4k which you never hit in traffic.

Engine bay looks stock that's why people go low mounts.

You can't have fun on the street with any setup on a gtr doesn't matter if you at full boost at 3.5 or 4k. And the idea that there is no boost below 4k is just not true it is progressive from way down and more than enough for daily driving. But at the track or strip the 'bahnstorming low mounts' are heaven. As I have always said each to their own, diversity of opinion makes life beautiful.

At disco: so i assume you have never driven a gtr with the above mentioned setup? At Nismoid: Full boost at 4000 but obviously enough boost in the daily driving range to keep up with traffic and overtake when i need to. On freeways in 5th overtake without changing gears with ease. As mentioned previously ' I drive it daily and love that it's off boost in traffic and starts coming on at a higher rev range. I would hate boost coming on too early. BUT when I want to drive the car then I hold it between 4 and 7-8 and she is a rocket and no lag when it matters' i suppose each persons idea of a perfect set up is different, that's why before making a choice on a build a person must experience different setups and then choose and not rely on other peoples opinions including my own.

that is sensational. wonder how good the sound is though and how to go about hooking up your stereo system.

- 5s on a built 26 with cams is the best all-around setup hands down. It's got torque under boost for daily driving, it's got good midrange and it will be on boost with gear changing at about 7k for quarter mile and circuit fun. And if you want to be a d%kh!ad on the street you can do that in an I 20 mate. One question disco have you driven a set up mentioned above?

Yeah better to do if it's lifted. Then mask it and wet sand with 1000 grit.

Yeah it turns brown or black. Try to touch it up you won't do any more damage. Just build it up over a week or so. Tape up the area and give it a sand with some 1000 and then 2000 grit. Then cut polish and waxed it. See how you go. Worst case you stuff it totally and get fixed by a panel beater. Won't cost you anymore. Not a hard job just takes time and patients. See if you can get some etch primer for the first coat. Cheers

Hey mate I really don't know all my specs. All I know I have a fully forged balance blueprinted bottom end, oil pump, upgraded fuel system surge tank, injectors rail regulator, head work cams, radiator, intercooler, oil cooler 9L sump, hks dumps, front pipe. Power I think is about 370 to 420 I think. Don't really care about dyno figures as dynos are just tuning tool, I will see what the power is when I run it down the quarter. But it's been tuned for midrange more than top end. As I said before if I drive it hard when I change gears I am still on boost. As for opinions, mine doesn't matter, yours does and need to experience different setups to see which one you like and build it. My only real advice is find an rb engine builder that can organise their customer's cars for you to experience and then say what you want and then let them do their job. Hope this helps.

Instead of waiting for someone probably best you do some reading to figure it out like most others have or talk to someone who really knows what they are talking about. It is even easier to sit back and demand someone provide evidence (for what is a fact) to satisfy someones skepticism. No worth it just leave it alone.

Would not having the gasses merging back into a single pipe have any effect on this like 98% of low mount GTR's out there are?In regards to the "tuned length" debate, wouldn't the gas pulses be all messed up after going through the turbine wheel? If you mean scavenging the exhaust pulse, that only really is noticeable in small NA engines for the average guy. that's why if you speak to any RB engine builder he will recommend a pipe diameter for a certain power/torque/displacement/turbo setup to get the gasses out as quickly as possible.

Fair enough. But out of interest why do you think you need back pressure in the exhaust system to assist in torque in FI?

Hey mate I don't think it's a criticism it just against all the theory. And it's not a myth it gets put into practice everyday.