XGTRX

Where did you source these from? Tried nissan in victoria. I basically got told off for having an import and they said there is no way they can help me. I actually said that the r32 was aussie delivered and he told me no they werent..ha ha. I hung up I would rather get OEM can you tell me where?

Wondering where people have sourced their engine hoses from. JustJap can't supply them at the moment, eBay has a few. Autobahn88 have theirs which i am leaning towards. Does any one know where to source genuine Nissan hoses from and are the silicone ones I have mentioned as good. Thanks guys

Radiator sold Thanks

Pm sent Btw location is in melbourne

Clearing out a few things out of the garage from my R33 GTR: Stock front pipes with heat shields. Good condition with surface rust. $100 ono Stock radiator which has been reconditioned about 3 years ago by previous owner.good condition with a few surface scrapes $150 ono Stock intercooler. Great condition. original paint so could be sprayed to make it look pretty. $200 Bilstein coilovers front and rear. Brilliant road coilover especially set up for high speed touring by AVO Turboworld about 10 years ago. Would keep them but going to do some track work so need adjustables. Never missed a beat, no knocking and dampen well. From what I know they are fixed, so no adjustibility. Car sits pretty close to stock height, (have provided photos of how my car sat when they were on) $500 Thanks for looking. Here are the pictures:

Hey mate you still got the front pipe

Look at buying a 3 inch into 3.5/4 inch collector front pipe urgently. Thanks

So the collector is 94mm. So are the 2 pipes to the turbos also 94mm? Or 3inch

whats the size of the front pipe. thanks

Where from mate

Sorry should have elaborated. Take off you air filter. If it is disposable get a new one. If it is reusable tap it gently to remove the debris. Then use a soft brush or air compressor to remove the rest of the impurities. Then once you inspect it and are happy with the result remove the soot type impurities with throttle body cleaner or contact cleaner. For the afm, remove it and brush over the mesh with a very soft brush making sure you are holding it so the debris fall away from the centre element. Once satisfied with the result of both sides get some contact cleaner and spray from a distance onto the element to clean it. You can use throttle body cleaner as I have never had an issue. Up to you. If you have contact cleaner also apply to the afm plug. Hope this helps

Looking for these too but most tend to be 2.75 into 3 or 3 into 3. Does anyone know a supplier in melbourne

First check afm. Take air filter out clean it with some throttle body cleaner and clean the afm the same way. Do this before you do anything else because its the most common issue and easiest fix.

Where are they made. Steel or alloy. Cast or forged. Weight. Can you point me to the site with all the info. Thanks mate

Pm ed

Woopsy daisy didn't read that part

Varex rear muffler solves all issue IMO.

Yes agreed. Isn't more important to have a faster car than a more powerful engine in this application. You trying to better your time. Aren't you?? Don't know I must be missing something. Point I am trying to make is: why are people so hung up on dyno power when they don't even know how fast it is. They go to an engine builder and say I want 450awkw. On the dyno it says 450kw' customer is happy. Guy comes out of another shop with 400kw they drag and 400kw car rips the other. Dyno is a tuning tool and it gets proven over and over again. Unreliable comparison. 1/4 mile ETs and MPH are not and really is the only measuring stick (excluding track setups of course). Anyway, sorry for interupting. Carry on.

Spot on. its a tuning tool and the only relavence to its figures is when it needs to be used to modify the engine management computer to optimise engine efficiency..nothing to do with comparing to another dyno down the road. Also in a street car engine power does not necessarily relate to how quick your car is. An example is when I was active on the ls1 forums there were cars running 0.5 seconds quicker down the quarter with 50 rwkw less, why, because of hi stalls and diff gears and rear suspension setups and all streetable not radical stuff AND a good healthy tune. In other words there cars were efficient for their purpose and drivers knew how to drive. Higher dyno HP really means nothing to me. If I had to get an engine built (which I am) I say to my mechanic I want to run low 10s in my daily. He should tell me what he is going to do and how much and when. When I get it back and after run in or whatever he tells me to do.....I want it running low 10s and I don't care if its got 300 400 or 500awkw. I know its a rant but hopefully it helps steer the younger crew into the older ways of thinking....pipe dream maybe

So is it safe to say that to run these numbers this is the power you need? Maybe we need to start multiple threads 9 sec cars, 10 sec cars, 11sec cars so people can post their times, mods and driving style. Just a thought

Quote: 'or just get better at driving.' Quote of the century

This is my point. So really dyno tuning is for tuning not rattling off numbers. Real track numbers are the only ones that matter. So why do people waste their time asking for builds based on power numbers. Every car that I have ever modified I have never really cared about anything else except how it performs when I drive it or race it. Don't know. Must be getting old.

Been reading through this thread together with nearly all the others, yes its my favourite passtime, together with my 33; and this is the conclusion that I have drawn, I think. Hub dynos read differently to 2 wheel dynos that read differently to 4 wheel dynos. Every dyno lies because it is used as a form advertising because everyone wants bragging rights and to say mines bigger than yours. But if you look at the real purpose of any dyno it is to tune the car, so it really doesnt matter what it reads from a power and torque value (within reason of course), what matters is that the expert using it can modify the ecu setting to maximise and optimise engine efficiency. If this is correct then why is there so much weight given to power and torque figures if that's NOT what dynos are good at. The other thing I notice is that 10 - 15 years ago it was difficult to achieve dyno power and torque figures of today due to a number of enhancements over time mostly the tuners ability and knowledge and the tools they now have namely engine management systems. What's to say that this evolving technology can not push engine packages that have also be known to make 400kw up to 450. My conclusion is dynos are for tuning, and if you really want street cred, respect, or bragging rights or whatever they call it, really you should be posting up times because thats all that matters either quarter mile or track. See if you build a car you need to have an objective and we are blessed with skylines because they are so versitile. If you want a 10 sec daily who cares what power it has what matters is that it runs 10s. If you want street/track car to run 1 min laps then that is what is important. I look at that video of that gtt couple of pages back, tell you the truth I would give a sh%t what power that was making, if I could drive that thing like that driver I would have the greatest day of my life..hat off to you mate. Lastly, (sorry for the rant) if you had a true 400awkw Gtr weighing 1600kg what quarter mile time and top speed should it run, sorry rephrase that, what time have people run.

Sold

Price drop 400 ono. Make an offer. Need it gone