dojobi

Hi SydneyKid, I had a look at the image that Meggala posted ages ago and got these specs for the cams: RB25DET IN EX 240 240 7.8 7.8 120 117 RB26DETT (R32, R33) IN EX 240 236 8.58 8.58 113 125 Do you know the actual specs of the RB25DE cams? It would be good to use hydraulic ones. I thought the GTR cams would be good as they are close to the RB25DET cams, but with higher lift. For $250 I thought it was a bargain.

Cool, thanks ph1. Do you know what parts I would need to put them in? ie will I need the GTR springs, lifters and retainers? Or can I use some of my GTS stuff?

Personally I'd keep it at around 9 or 10psi for the track, as I feel HPI were pretty unlucky. For the street around 12psi as adam said.

I think HPI blew their turbo at 0.7 or 0.8 bar. That was on the track though, so it would have been held at that for a while. I run my R33 turbo at 14psi, but it's only ever at that for a small amount of time, so it's pretty safe. I can guarantee you it'd blow on the track. What kind of application will you be using it for (ie street, track, drags etc)?

Hmm, that's not a bad idea Jay. I'll ask my mechanic when I see him next. Have we got any specs on the GTS and GTR cams so we can compare?

I've looked into this a little and it appears that you can put solid adjusters into a GTS25t, but you can't put the hydraulics into a GTR. I'm not too sure what they're worth yet, but I'll check with the Toy Shop. They've got absolutely every part known to man and if they don't have it they can price it for you and then get it.

I've got an exhaust cam gear, so I'll pick up an intake gear to go with these cams. I hear that the camshafts are pretty damn cheap as many GTR owners go for the brand name cams. Does anyone know the going rate on them?

hehe well it got me (up until the cop bit). Even after reading heaps of other April Fools threads I always get sucked in.

How much of a power gain did you get Matt? Did it affect your bottom end at all?

That's really strange. I spoke to my local instrument shop and they love VDO. They said their gauges are 2nd to none. They also bagged out Autometer.

I don't know what I'm talking about, but I've heard from a few others that they do match up just fine.

It's pretty simple to press 36 when you mean to press 25. The keys are right next to each other!

I'm thinking of doing this too, as GTR cams are cheap. I don't want to lose my bottom end though, so I'd like to see a before/after dyno comparison so I can see the effects.

Here's the other.

Here's 2 more. I like the 1st one.

If I could buy myself new mags now I'd get some ROH Fury 18"ers in Shadow Chrome. They look awesome. Check out http://members.dodo.net.au/inacnt/wheel.jpg It's a good pic of them.

Don't worry, I've got it set up now. I didn't have to take it off. It's amazing what a bit of filing can do

Hi Guys, I'm trying to install my pillar gauge by removing the little speaker in the pillar itself and feeding the pressure line up through there. Can someone tell me how to remove the part of the pillar that holds this speaker? I cannot get it off. Thanks, Michael

OMG you guys just described my problem exactly. I have this HUGE flat spot around 2K rpm and then it's as quick as normal. I'm going to go and check mine.

meteor - I'd say it would have been tuned - I mean a car with optimal A/F ratios is usually more economical. He did it for cost savings, so economy was important. R31 - Fair enough, If it wasn't tuned for both then I can understand that, but that doesn't explain why the stock AU Falcon on gas (from the factory) makes less power than the petrol model. Surely they would tune it?

I was always under the impression that LPG had a low octane rating. In the 80s somewhere. One of the guys I work with has a LPG converted Falcon and he says he loses a fair bit of power when he switches over. Also, the stock LPG AU Falcon had less power than the petrol one. Can anyone explain this?

Ahh, makes total sense. If that's the case, then add me to the list of people who say 4 degrees is the optimal setting for a better top end. This was tested over a fair few dyno pulls too. I'm still going to adjust mine to give me a better mid range as I don't like the hole in the power down low.

Adam, I'm almost certain that you can get the result you want with the cam gears. Mine is set up to be exactly the opposite of what you want. ie dead bottom end, and high top end. I am considering having it retuned to fix the bottom end the way you want it. If you want to see a dyno sheet where the cam gear is set for top end I've got one at www.ozemail.com.au/~caddies The file is MIC33Rdyno.jpg or something like that. This was done with 2 deg retard on the ex gear. Above or below that it made it drop up top and rise down low (or the whole power curve dropped). I don't know why everyone says 4 deg retard on the ex gear, as I tried that initially and it certainly wasn't pretty. BTW The dip in the curve at the bottom is due to the cam gear. It used to be straight until the gear was adjusted.

What do you mean by hot air? The vented (or in your case plumbed back) air is after the intercooler usually, so it isn't hurting the performance.

Rev: Venting the stocker wouldn't sound too good and as you said give you overfuelling problems. These hybrid bovs are perfect for noise and give you no overfuelling problems. This new one is even better as you can have a break from the noise if you feel like it. I've got a SAFC, but prefer to use my return pipe to prevent overfuelling rather than the SAFC.