BlackBox

Wow, i think 8k is a bit excessive i see your point, what then would you recommend as my next stage? (Mods are in signature + fuel pump and injectors etc..) I was thinking turbo manifold and tomei poncams

Thanks for the replies, I thought that it might be starting to max out the 3076 Are you saying run the GT35 on the standard manifold or 6 boost? (I don't take stock looking under the bonnet as a good thing ) Oops just realised the .50 A/R is my compressor housing, not rear housing Mick_o why do you say that i will need to change the compressor housing? How laggy should i expect the GT35 to be when combined with a twin scroll manifold? (I was originally searching for better response/earlier boost) And no E85 for me, only got pump 98 avalible

Hi, My next set of modifications has me looking at 6 boost top mount twin scroll turbo manifolds, With this i am also going to need to convert my current GT3076R internally gated to a twin scroll housing with no wastegate (For external wastegate) My 34 is a streeter and i am aiming for 330Rwkw with headroom for the power bug The current housing is .50 A/R this seems like a very low ratio, what should i be looking for to have street response but meet my power goal. Ive also heard that i should use the biggest exhaust flange that will fit, i am having difficulty finding housings with T4 flange, will T3 be sufficient? what else have i missed that i should be concidering? I hope this all makes sense Cheers

+1 R34 GTT Carbon

Hi mate, im 3 hours below ya in cobar

Edit: Double post

Car bra's do look bad, but not as bad as stone chips etc.. It would only be used on interstate drives when i would rather protect my paint than impress people with a front end covered in stone chips and bugs

Hi, I have an R34 GTT with a GTR style bumper. I would like to put a car bra on it, on long drives to protect the front end from stone chips. Will a GTR Car bra fit, or is there a car bra made for this combination? Or would a custom one be the only answer. I've been talking to the people at carbra.com.au and they say they have one that will fit, but i dont think they understand that the GTR has wider dimensions...

this happened to me last week, Took the door skin off, held the switch in the up position (Window was stuck down) And gave the motor a light tap with a hammer while still holding the switch.. Im guessing my motor must have been jammed because its had no problem since

i held the button 'up' and lightly tapped the motor with a hammer, now all is good

Hi, My R34 GTT Coupe drivers window wont go up, it is completely down. There was no warning before this happened. When i lift the button i can hear the motor 'click' I pulled the door trim off expecting to find a control box with dry solder joints like the earlier skylines, but it seems the control is integrated into the motor?

Too easy mate, let us know hoe you go with it, and what type of difference it makes

Cheers mate, have you received/fitted it yet? Can you comment on the quality of the components?

WTB: Hicas delete/eliminator kit ( Total removal not just lock out bars) To Fit R34 GTT Or Where can i get one for cheaper than the $350 For the Driftworks

bump bump

Thanks for the reply, Why does the tank 'whoosh' if it is vented/breathing? And i'm pretty keen to relocate it to the bin haha

Hi, I have a r34 GTT and i want to remove the charcoal canister to tidy up the engine bay. I have tried searching and have read a bit but i'm still not positive on what needs to vent and block. From what i understand they should all be blocked besides the one coming from the tank which should be vented with a breather? I would like to remove all the lines possible instead of just looping them together, but im not sure which line goes back to the tank. Is my diagram correct? Also when i remove my fuel cap it makes a 'whooshing' sound (Air entering/escaping) would this mean that their is already a problem with it venting?

Just wondering why you don't like the cable running through the car? I will be relocating my battery to the boot soon and wondering which route to go..

BUMP

"Mirror polished, high grade stainless steel cover etched with the GTR logo, fuse box to hide the original cover while brightly and stylishly decorating the engine bay." Brand New, Ordered it for my Gtt hoping that i could get it engraved with GTT instead, then realised the fuseboxe's are totally different. $80 Posted Uploaded with ImageShack.us

So after giving the AFM a decent inspection i have found that one of the hot wires(?) is broken, i have ordered a new one so should have results before the weekend

i just dont see how the wiring or Plugs could foul just from removing and reinstalling the afm? I checked the AFM voltage on The power FC, and while the key was "on", and for the very brief moment while the car idles it read "10-15MV" and in the sensor check it said AFL.01 V I have read that it is meant to be .3V, but it is a very small difference, could this be a problem?

It's alright mate, I know for a fact that nobody within 300km from me has a skyline let alone a z32 AFM ... I just don't understand why unplugging the afm wouldn't eliminate it as a problem?

Bump Bump.. Really running out of ideas, I'm going to do a boost leak test tomorrow, only other thing I can think of is getting a new afm, bit it's going to take over a week to get..

Yeah i understand about the splice, i checked the connections and they are soldered and individually heat-shrunk.. Im still not understanding how the afm could be the culprit if it still wont start with it unplugged? And how can i tell if its a fake Z32 AFM? , i have already checked the sticker and part numbers and they seem genuine.. Thanks for all the help so far