maccattack

I know Just Jap http://www.justjap.com/ were advertising R34 rims just recently.

Scotsman, Do you have the numbers as yet, as I would like to get mine ASAP?

I'd be interested in the GTR setup. Any idea on freight to Brisvegas?

Looking for a cooler and filter relocation kit. Definitely interested if the price is right.

I run 275's on my GTR while a mate runs 315's on the rear of his Corvette. Both sets purchased at Keith 4 Wheels. Generally has some of the best prices around. Worth a call.

More than likely what you are talking about is an Accusump. Apart from being used as a surge protector in the engine they can also be used as turbo pre-oilers. Check it out at http://www.accusump.com

SoOky, Can you drop me a pm when you get them in. Thanks

SoOky, I am currently looking to get a coolerfor my GTR, so would definately be interested.

Sydneykid, I have a full set of R33 GTR suspension. I am in Bris however, but you are more than welcome to use them if you want to pay to get them there.

Another worth considering is Earls Oil Coolers. Check them out at http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/oil_cool.htm

There is always plenty of people who make mention of either being issued with a defect notice or having concernes of whether or not specific modifications will pass inspections. Does anyone know if there is a link to the Department of Transport (I'm talking QLD here - but no doubt those in other states would like to know their own) website which provides a full listing of what is considered legal in terms of a car - ie transport department specifications which their inspections are based upon. Apart from obviously conforming to those specifications, we would all be better armed with the knowledge to defend any potential challenge to our interpretation of the rules.

your PCD is 5-114.3

I have read that you can do it yourself with a syringe (full of glue) and a hair dryer. Inject each bubble with the glue. press flat and wipe away the excess, then cure the glue with the hair dryer. Never tried it myself, but it sounds the business.

Usually says something like that, but generally any prepayment and you will get the $10 discount

Just wondering if anyone else is doing the Super Sprints this weekend at Queensland Raceway? Last time there was a couple of skylines on the track, but it would be great to get a few more out there. If you are, make sure you download an entry form from http://www.queenslandraceway.com.au/ and prepay to save a few bucks. Hopefully see you there.

First and most significant mods should be a new exhaust then the power FC. You will find quite significant gains for "relatively" little expence. Make sure you get them done in that order otherwise the power FC will have to be retuned after the exhaust install.

Many may have seen these before, but for those who haven't check them out. http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html Must say though, for most of it, I have NFI

So based on what most people have said, what should I be looking at paying for hi-flowing the turbos - based on the fact that I really have NFI as to what removal - re-build - install is worth and roughly how long does it take to get done?

Check out http://www.jbskyline.net/

Non-v-spec GTR's also come with Brembos

Having recently spoken with my mechanic and looking as to what the next power mod should be (predominately for track work), the suggestion was for hi-flowing the existing turbos on the car (R33 GTR). Just wondering what many of you learned forced induction-ists think about hi-flowing over changing turbos to ball bearing jobbies. Not so much looking for FULL rev range increases but certainly relatively low rev spooling and constant power delivery. Thanks

The main difference between a v-spec and a non v-spec is the ATTESA systems used. The v-spec uses an ATTESA pro system which has a higher rate (about 10 times as fast) of checking the wheels for slippage and thus transferring power to the front. It also has a active differential for left to right power transfer. From most articles I have come across (and from driving the two myself), not many people can actually tell the difference in driving the two. The v-spec was (is) considered the top of the range, however the the physical driving differences are minimal.

So long as your paint has fully cured, you shouldn't have any problems in waxing it. The wax won't damage the paint at all, and if it has been clear coated, you shouldn't have much swirling. It is preferable to do it by hand as opposed to a machine buff, as this tends to leave more regular marks which are easily seen. As mentioned previously, buff, buff, buff. Use a canauba as this is a much softer wax and easy to polish out. Also it doesn't leave that white residue around badges and trims like some of the other waxes.

I've had a couple of black cars (including my GTR) and have found that in full sunlight, you never seem to completely get rid of the swirling left from polishing / waxing. Turtle wax is bloody hard to apply and remove, but I still believe it is one of the hardest waxes around - lasts forever. I generally will use Turtle once or twice a year, then use a good canauba the rest of the time. I have been using Mothers California Gold cake wax and have found it as good as any. Best way to get rid of the swirls is to wax and buff (by hand) then buff again using a clean polish cloth. If the car is not overly dirty, simply chamois then buff - keeps the waxes lasting longer. Unless your paintwork is relatively new (ie: with a deep clear coat), then you will be fighting an uphill battle to get it looking perfect (in full sunlight). Live with the fact that it looks awsome in half light and just bloody good in full sunlight.

http://www.upimports.com.au http://www.uniqueautosports.com http://www.option1garage.com.au/ http://www.justjap.com