maccattack

I'll be there

Can't speak more highly of Brisbane Tuning and Turbo at Woolloongabba. Have always provided exellent advice and very professional work. Worth investigating for yourself.

good point. From the ones I've seen (photos only), they all seem to be sealed. What are the brands that can be opened?

dorifuto-ex, Can these cans be opened, or are they a sealed unit??

Yeah thanks, I guess for the sake of a few bucks and some steel wool, it save a load of sh1t building up and in the end will maintain good performance. Thanks for your input.

Thanks SK, but tell me - is the oil blow back ( and I'm talking about track work here) damaging or just a pain in the arse. For the sake of a miniscule improvement to the RON rating of the fuel, are they actually worth putting in?

Hi All, I have searched and read numerous threads regards oil catch cans and am looking for a bit of direction. Most seem to acknowledge that the standard (cheapie) catch cans are nothing more than a can (no internals) and need to be stuffed with a filter (steel wool / scourers etc) in order to actually do what they are supposed to do - seperate oil from air and catch the oil. There are a couple of catch cans (more expensive- such as the Essential and ARC cans) which replace the washer bottle (GTR's only I think) and apparently do all they are supposed to do. These cost around $400-$500, which isn't exactly cheap. I have also seen the air/oil seperators (cylinder type) which fit across the top of the engine (GTR). From what I've been told, you also need a catch can with these to collect the oil. This type of air/oil seprator and cheap catch can would work out to be much cheaper than the expensive unit "which does it all". Question are- Is this setup better or worse than the expensive catch cans? Do the expensive ones do everything they claim to? Apart from reducing octane rating and performance, does oil blow back damage anything? Thanks for your help.

SAU Nickname: Maccattack Car Make and Model: 95 R33 GTR Circuit Name: Qld Raceway - Sprint Circuit Lap time: 58.5 seconds Modifications Exhaust, PFC, standard High-flow turbos Engine: Stock Power: Suspension: Ohlins shocks & Eibach springs Tyres: Bridgestone RE55 Brakes: Stock with Endless race pads Body weight:

Hey All, I am chasing an R33 GTR radiator fan. If you have one to sell, or know of where I can buy one locally, can you please let me know. Cheers

Hi All, I am chasing an R33 GTR radiator fan. If anyone has one to sell, can you please pm me. Thanks

Hi all, Chasing a radiator fan for a R33 GTR - prefer Brisbane, but if you've got when, please pm me. Thanks

Looking for the plastic front spoiler lip for a series 1 R33 GTR. Thanks.

Many of the immobilisers these days are turbo timer compatible. With mine (Mongoose I think it is), with the engine running and the doors locked, any attempt to open the car (or drive it away) will result in the alarm going off and the immobiliser cutting in.

Yes I've painted mine. When I got my car, the panel was overly shiney and looked like crap. Lived with it for ages until I decided to paint it. Picked up a product from Supercheap. Can't remember the name (can find out if you really need to), but it's a pigment dye used for plastic and carpet. Gave the panel a good clean with metho, sanded it lightly with wet and dry to take out any minor scatching and hit it with about 3-4 coats of this paint/dye. Used the satin black. Looks absolutely brand new. The dye doesn't come off (rub off) at all. It was so good, I repainted the wing mirrors on my daughters car. They are black plastic which had oxidised and gone a greyish whitein some areas. Same deal as the door trim - came up looking like new. The satin comes up with the same sort of luster as new plastic. Comes in a heap of colours too.

Just wondering if anyone had much information on the new Azenis RT-615. Have seen a couple of articles about the tyre (including pics) and it looks nice and aggressive. Here is a press release on the tyre for SEMA "Falken Tire Corp. is proud to début the next generation of RT (race tuned) Spec Sport Radials for North America and the world. Derived from a motorsport lineage that begins with Nürburgring’s Nordschleife, the Super Taikyu Endurance Race Series, and world-class circuits around the globe; the World Spec Azenis RT-615 is poised to initiate the battle for Pure Sports domination. “The development of the RT-615 was spawned from the ever growing need for true motorsport level products without the inherent drawbacks of track dedicated R-Compound tires. As the OEM’s continue to focus more on attitudinal tire characteristics such as NVH (noise, vibration, harshness), the availability of unorthodox sports radials has become all but non-existent. Generally speaking, premium sports customers have been forced to choose between watered down versions of flagship summer tires and limited life cycle R-compound rubber. The World Spec Azenis RT-615 signals the rebirth of truly premium Pure Sports products for discriminating sports drivers.” The World Spec Azenis RT-615 incorporates the absolute latest in design philosophy and materials. “Every aspect of this project has focused on a single development objective. To create and launch a new genre of sports radials that have the credentials to attack authentic JDM brands like Yokohama Advan and Bridgestone Potenza. While we know these competitors may ultimately modify their specifications to meet US glass transition point compound standards, we are prepared to go head to head against the best in the world”. Prepare yourself for the World Spec Azenis RT-615. It will redefine the premium sports tire segment by creating an entirely new benchmark for Pure Sports performance. " From what I have read, this tyre brings the Azenis back to a pure sport / race tyre as opposed to an in-between hybrib, trying to create a trade off between sport tyre and soft, comfy, noiseless road tyre. Apparently it is due for release in Australia in May, but I haven't seen any performance reports. Anyone heard anything about these tyres??

Brisbane Tuning and Turbo - 17 Nile St Woolloongabba 33931588

Have you tried Tyretech at Bowen Hills. They are the only retailers locally for Bridgestone sport tyres, so they may be able to help.

After having many a problem lately (and swapping fuel pumps like underpants) - the standard GTR pumps run a 12v - 8v switch. This can be converted to run constant 12v by earthing one of the wires (can't tell you exactly which one though). It's not a major, you just need to find out which wire to earth.

Thought I would give an update on my problems as we appear have to sorted it (knocks wood). Was having similar problems to 46n2 and hellrazorette, with regards to intermitant fuel pump failure, etc, etc, etc. After testing near every wire and relay, the problem came down to 2 things. It would appear that one of the AFM's was dodgy -and so we replaced it. The second (and probably the root cause to most of the problems) was that the plug into the power FC had the ability to rock back and forth - temporarily loosing pin connections - to the fuel pump. Even though the plug has a bolt in the centre of it, we put large zip ties around the plug and the computer. So far, we have had no problems. So for those having similar problems - try checking the plug on the computer. If it moves at all - it may be your problem. Good luck.

HICAS is good for standard driving but a nightmare for track work. In high-speed corners (when you NEED to feel the back end of the car as it starts to slide out), the HICAS will begin steering the rear end of the car and induce an oversteer situation. It makes the rear of the car feel almost weightless. As you try to correct, it steers the other way, etc. This starts to cause a high speed "fish tailing" effect which is hard to control. Any higher speed driving in the car is far more predictable with HICAS disengaged.

I had mine disabled electronically. I could be wrong, but it makes more sense to have it disabled rather than locking, as the cars hydraulics must be straining against a locking bar. Can't be good for it in the long run. Done at Brisbane Tuning and Turbo at Woolloongabba.

Hi all, I need to find where I can get a genuine R33 GTR AFM. New they are ballistically priced. Does anyone know who may have a second hand one? Thanks

Thanks Sinista32 I'll pass it on

Currently having an identical problem with mine. Initially thought it was dirty fuel and that the fuel pump may be stuffed. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. No good. Earthed the fuel pump for a constant 12v. No good. Removed and cleaned out the air flow meters. No good. Tried a replacement crank angle sensor. No good. Tried a replacement spark amplifier. No good. Refitted the original computer to the car (currently using a Power FC). No good. At one stage the car actually died and refused to start. Got it on a flat bed and got it to my mechanic. Fitted a pressure guage to the fuel lines and found I had zero pressure. Someone touched some wiring near the fuel pump and pressure went up to 50psi. Assumed then that the problem must be electrical, relating to the fuel pump. swapped the relay switches (aircon to fuel pump) to see if maybe it was a dodgy switch. Nuthin. So far the car has been at the auto electricians for two and a half days and they can't seem to find anything wrong. If there is anything glaring that you think may be wrong or that we may have missed, PLEASE let me know. Thanks

Ok, here's the problem. About a week ago my R33 GTR started having a slight "hiccup" when I was driving, generally when the revs were faily constant - nothing dramatic, just a little annoying. This had then developed into almost a complete breakdown - feels like fuel delivery problem where the car loses all power and bearly has enough to keep turning over. Sometimes it would stall completely, but I was able to restart the car immediatey, rev it a couple of times and then all would be fine until next time. Took the car to my mechanic who originally changed the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Had some crap in the filter so assumed it was dirty fuel. Same problem persisted so we earthed the fuel pump ensuring it was receiveing contsant 12volts instead of the 8volt-12volt via the switch in the computer. Seemed to fix the problem, but then it came back - not as bad this time. That was until today when it stalled and I am unable to restart the car. Has anyone had anything similar? If so, what did it turn out to be? Its a bit like trying to find a needle in a haystack at the moment. Thanks for your help.