carl h

is this a std rb20? if so you should have almost if not full boost by 3k....... whats the setup, that will help the guess work along.

i just ordered a rb25 pfc from nengun with the specific purpose to use it on my rb20. the ecu connectors are the same and the ecu pinouts are IDENTICAL except for injector triggers for cyls 5 and 6, they are just reversed. also if you use the rb25 pfc you HAVE to change injectors as it cant go smaller than 370cc (stockers on the rb25), but im already running 720's so its not a problem. once i get my pfc i will def do a write up on if it works or not, else im sure some one will be more than keen to buy it new with commander for what i paid.

hehe, i didnt reccomend he use it now......

try using a qt of kerosene, its been done before and a national parts chain's engine flush is mostly kerosene. works well, just dont run the motor under load and change the oil right afterwards but allow for a good draining as you want as much of the kero/oil mix out of the motor.

from what ive been told the stock boost on a BONE stock gts-t is 7psi, however when the std exhaust has been dropped in favour of a highflowing one boost jumps up to 10psi.

to a certian point it is, after that it causes power loss and even engine damage.

no i meant what i said, auto meter gauges are not as accurate as they tout. my buddy with a rx7 had a auto meter gauge that said he was only boosting 7-8psi he threw on a greddy gauge (electric) and it showed boost to be more like 12. just recently a buddy of mine dynoded his s13 hatch with a rb20 in it and the auto meter gauge read 11psi when it was really boosting 15.

ive got a buddy with a large masterpower turbo on his fc rx7 and it goes quite nicely........ no complaints as of yet.

either way you cut it the stock gauge is usualy wrong 1/2 the time anyways so just get a good aftermarket (not autometer) boost gauge and call it a day.

i do have a wideband o2 in the car, at idle it reads 12.5-12.8:1 when its a nice smooth idle but when it gets erratic it usaly reads bout 13.5-14:1. while i do occasionaly get some oil on the maf (blowthru) i cleaned it a week ago or so with no change in idle characteristics. im starting to think its my dodgy chip tuning skills combined with 13 year coils that are on their way out.......... what im guessing is happining is that when i go from cruise to wot afr's hit 10's or so and the car cant fire on 10:1, however when i roll onto boost afrs are usualy in the 11.5:1 range so its ok and not terrible. gonna try something with the chip tune and see what happens, cut might just be due to obcene fuel, however ive got enough money now to buy a pfc and some splitfires so we will see what happens.

well on my car i have tomei 260/8.8 cams with greddy gears and a gt30r turbo, so it is a bit laggy but pulls like a cut bastard to redline (8.5k). i mainly want to build the engine not for outright power but for reliablity, i plan on keeping the car round for another few years and i cant imagine that the stock internals are going to keep up with the 450bhp the car puts out on high boost.

excessive backfiring may be due to improperly set timing, whip out a light and find out where it is.......

spot on there sir spot on! as far as the valves, the standard ca18 valves will fit into the head? and if so 1mm will certianly aid in airflow into the motor. how much power are you making with standard rods, everyone seems to have gotten in on a betting pool on my car when it comes to the motor's internals...... cheers!

hey now, i said nothing about rb30 heads .

engine is out of a r32 and its a rb20det currently the car has the following: garrett true gt30r with .63ar turbine 720cc injectors z32 maf in blow thru tomei 260/8.8mm cams on intake and exhaust remapped ecu to suit injectors and maf the car JUST started to do this as before it would hold a rock steady 600rpm idle any given time of the day, so im not sure whats going on.

ok so my engine likes to give me all sorts of trouble, guess she doesnt like being in a s14 chassis....... anyways im currently trying to rid the car of the current grimlin, crappy idle and transitional boosting problems. at idle the car seems to have a light miss, but not like an outright dead coil pack occasionaly the car will not idle worth a damn and others like a champ, it seems that weather has no effect on this and it will do it at any time. also something that has developed is when im at cruise and i suddenly go wot where boost comes in hard (4kish) the car will 'buck' and stutter for a moment then go on its way and haul ass like normal. im not sure what it could be and i dont want to spend 400$ on splitfire coils if i dont have to.

no, gapping the plugs down is just a super ghetto fix for ailing coils, so unless you are blowing out spark (ie: high boost) then they should be good where they are. i gapped my plugs down to .6mm and ive got a new set to go in that will be set at .9mm.

from what i recall from the engine manual the det engine has a beefy main girdle where as the de one does not.

well starting to look into options to build up the old 20's bottom end as power and age is starting to take its toll on the old girl. i think that i am gonna go with arias pistons for the pistons, but not sure what kind of rods to source out? who makes rb20 rods if anyone? also i plan on working the rb20's head a bit, if anything to just clean it up and perhaps enlarge the valves a bit to aid in airflow. thoughts please!

try opening the plug gap back up to 1mm, from what i gather the smaller the gap the worse it will make the car idle.

car proly has a keylock solenoid which prevents the keys from being removed on an auto trans car. fix is easy tho, remove the steering coloumn cover and unplug the 2 wire connector that leads into the keylock, should disable it permanantely.

im makingh 288rwkw's on my rb20 and on the stock box, havent had a problem yet cept for a failing clutch master.

no, stockers rated at 270cc's are crap for 240 HP at the wheels, they will be maxed out at that power. 100% duty cycle is not your friend, you should never run over 80% for safteys sake. hell, im taking out my 550's and going to 720's just to have a low duty cycle, and thats with about 450bhp.......

psi cuz im over here in the us and its hard as fork to look down when doing highway pulls and calculating bar to psi in your head while avoiding traffic. besides the e-01 displays it any way i like, psi, kpa, mm/hg, monkey powers whatever.

why not run twin rb20 mafs? good for 600hp so i hear......