carl h

the older wbo2 wideband controlers had to be manualy callibrated from what i can gather off of the website but the new ones are spot on now with the big money ones. ive got a friend who tuned his car with one and then dynoed it and afr's were spot on, ive one on the way here stateside for my car when i swap the rb20 in.

hey all. ive got a set of mk3 supra injectors (highflowed to 550cc) for my rb20. they have the same phsyical size as my stockers except they are disc type instead of needle. anyways i was bolting them in onto my new intake manifold and i noticed that they didnt seem to be as snug as the stockers were. i found this odd as they fit in the rail perfectly and were snug in it. i bought new injector seals from nissan to replace the old ones that i had from my stock manifold, but even tho the injectors fit into the seals the injector its self wasnt pushed against the seal like the stockers had been. anyone have an idea what could be wrong, i just dont want to get her up and running to find that the injector to manifold seal is bad and blows air out under boost. thanks. carl

RIPS in newzeland makes one, ive one on the way over here to the states as we speak. catch him on SDU, or i can shoot you his email.

may also be the engine coolant temp sensor. check codes and check the sensor, mine would go out intermittently and cause that problem, new sensor problem fixed.

should have done a leak down test on it first, compresson tests only let you know there is a problem.

fit the sr gauge temp sensor the rb one is diffrent from the sr. the oil light is proly on if you didnt connect the oil pressure switch wire. i ran my rb20 in my s13 on the stock radiator (tiny 1 row) for a good 2 weeks with no fans, granted the high was like 30 degrees (f) during this time. as for the lag bit, the bpv needs to be connected to the dump tube that goes back into the turbo inlet.

perhaps your vlsd hasnt given up the ghost yet.

glad to here that some one else realizes that they handle just fine with the rb20 up front. over here stateside there is a stigma about the rb series being "massively" heavier thus making your handling crap. i had no problems with my car, and it was tons of fun to drive, especialy sideways.

i was under the impression that a higher lift allowed for more air flow while duration let more air in per cycle. isnt it cam timing that will move the power band around or am i talking out of my arse.

but how do you wire a resistor pack into a standard rb20det loom? ive searched for the life of me but i cant find any exact directions on how and where to splice it in?

a light coat of spray paint does wonders...... else get it coated, here we have swain coatings and that increaces thermal effecincy as well as blacks out the intercooler.

the greddy e-01 has an rpm offset feature which is designed to allow for boost to be held at a steady curve by adding to the total solenoid duty cycle.

the gauge read the same at 10psi as it did at 14....... thats how it did on my s13 when i wired in the r32 cluster....

ive got an ats 2 way in my rear end, works a treat.

telling ya, its the engine temp coolant sensor. i had the same problem on my rb20 and the sensor had gone bad and was reading out of range and the ecu was going into safe mode and wouldnt allow the engine to rev past 5k and if it did it would stutter like it was hitting a revlimiter.

aquamist kits are very high quality, ran one on my saab at one point works a treat.

the ecu engine coolant temp sensor is either not connected or has gone bad, check it.

RIPS on sdu makes a very nice intake plenum/manifold for the rb20. as far as the greddy bit even on greddy's japanese page there is no rb20 intake manifold listed.

i had the first running rb20 in charlotte, then after that came 2 others but then mine had to come off the road and another sufferd a spun bearing.

hahaha. my point exactly, how much can all that stuff combined weigh? i would think no more than 1lb or so, so yeah there really is no reason to no have it on there. granted i cool my car properly when i do some spirited drving as well as normal driving but still, there really doesnt seem to be a good reason not to put it on besides the obvious PITA trying to make it fit.

spending 150$ in fittings and hoses to prevent my 1.2k investment seems like a good idea to me. why have a turbo bake its self to death when it can be cooled properly?

good to hear responses from ppl who have run this setup. was your friend running stock cams or aftermarket ones? if so what cams and what kind of cam timing. i hope to get the full boost spool to around 3.5-3.7k if possible, so input is greatly appreciated.

haha very tru. the next engine i build up will have all the stuff for it to rev out to 8k reliably. when i had the engine in my s13 i rarely took it past 6.5k so i shouldnt have too many problems with my engine. i think that some one in japan had the engine either rebuilt or had a new headgasket put on it as the head is immaculately clean on the inside and there was a new waterpump and timing belt on the engine when i got it. ive got a buddy with a ca18 with the hks 264/264 9mm cams and his engine was beat to absolute shit but it still handles those cams very well on stock springs. good call tho, next rb will proly be a stroker rb20.

when i do get my car up and running this is what i will have going for it: hks exhaust mani (already mock mounted) GT30R with .63exhaust a/r (mounted on manifold) hks std wastegate (to be purchased) 550cc RC engineering injectors (have them but waiting to install) RIPS intake mani (pending purchase) custom FMIC setup (looking into cores) HKS cams and gears 264/264 (looking for a decent price) greddy emanage and e-01 (had it from my old setup) when all is said and done i should be looking at 300whp or so on moderate boost and perhaps 350-400 on high boost. i will most def post my results when im done tho

while mckinney may have them they will also bend you over and ream you in the arse in terms of price. they are trying to sell the n1 water pump for nearly 300$ usd, thats a bit much!