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Everything posted by gslrallysport
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My apologies. I was under the impression that the Motul stuff, like Castrol SRF was silicon based... Sorry.
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The beauty of the TRW GP600 I talked about above (apart from having better performance than the Motul and generally being cheaper anyway) is that it's Dot 4 compatible. So rather than use the expensive stuff to flush it the system out, you can just grab any $7 bottle of Dot4 from the servo, use that to flush the system out, gravity drain, then top up with the good stuff. The problem with the Motul gear is that generally it's not Dot 4 compatible, and you cannot afford to have any of the old fluid left over...
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Zero, or as close as you can get it. Certainly in a drift car you do not want to increase the castor from standard like would in any other car. I'm well aware that castor is sexual chocolate in all forms of motorsport, especially rally where you hit stuff hard, but drifting is a completely different ball game, and most of the good drifters have found reducing castor is the way to go. Without going into too much details (cause it's well past bedtime!), increasing the castor also increases toe out on turn (TOOT). TOOT basically means that the wheels actually point in different directions when you roll lock on... this is fantastic on a grip setup, because the inside wheel does actually physically take a tighter line. During a drift however, the front of the car isn't prescribing the same arc as you would in a normal turn, so having any amount of TOOT makes it harder to maintain a drift once you're in it. It also affects on-turn camber and ride height to come degree (which in turn effects weight transfer), but the main aim of reducing castor in a drift car is to reduce the TOOT. The pro-castor people will argue that castor helps return the steering wheel to neutral between corners (making it easier to link), but the ability to control the car better at a higher speed usually offsets the "letting go of the steering wheel" argument.
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When I said Tein I was more referring the springs. Tein make some very good shocks, it's just unfortunate it's not the stuff that's available off the shelf in Australia... Australian Andy Pinker nearly won the Rally America National Championship in 2007 on Tein in a market dominated by DMS and Ohlins, but it sure as hell ain't monoflex!
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Ok maybe we're all getting a bit mixed up in our terminology... I define - Cheap coilovers as: G4, D2, K Sport Crap - Quality coilovers as: DMS, Ohlins, Sachs, Reigers etc. - Quality Shock/Spring Combo: KYB, Bilstein, Koni Shocks / Kings, Tein, Eibach Springs Which sort of level are you looking at getting?
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Doesn't matter either way. In a drift car you want zero caster, which is unlike EVERY other aspect of motoring, be it competition or street. A street car is not easily a drift car as the setups are worlds aparts... I'm questing whether you've actually read anything from the first page... Get past this macca's cred popularity contest of having 'coilovers'. For LESS money than your cheap shitty coilovers you can get lowered springs and a DECENT set of dampers... Again... for LESS money... NOT more...
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+1 +2 +3 Funny how people just want 'coilover', and the only reason they ask is for approval, but when they don't get it they just ignore it anyway... Seriously geraus... If you don't have $3k to spend on coilovers DON'T BOTHER! Get yourself some Bilstein or Koni Shocks and springs, the ONLY thing that changes a normal skyline coilover (which they come with standard) from an aftermarket 'coilover' is the adjustable platforms, which has absolutely no benefit to drifting what so ever... Listen to the people here who have given the good advice, because for a change there's actually been a fair bit of it here.
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The reason being is that their $20 damper inserts have such piss poor high speed bump properties, that they need to specify a stupidly high spring rate to stop the shock continuously bottoming out and flogging out the ball top [quicker than it will standard]... On the other hand a shock that can competently separate it's high and low speed bump will barely touch it's bump stops, whilst also providing a smoother ride...
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Spot on! If you haven't got $3k to budget on something like a DMS or Bilstein Coilover kit... Forget getting coilovers!!! Save a grand, get yourself a decent springs (Kings, Eibach or Tein) and shock (Bilstein, Koni, or heaven forbid, even KYB) combo, and you'll be FAR better off than spending $1.5k on fancy anodised crap. As I recently said on the opelaus forum:
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Dms Distributor/installer In Sydney
gslrallysport replied to Merli's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Ryan, It certainly wasn't having a swipe at you, at least you're in the industry. But because DMS can be resold through retailers who aren't necessarily involved in it, and because it is quite a specialised product, I know of several people that have been burnt quite badly... As for the time frame, again, certainly not a swipe at you, but just letting people know that DMS is made on order, not off the shelf, so 7-10 working days is what we'll tell most people as a worst case. It's generally less though... Regards, Greg -
Dms Distributor/installer In Sydney
gslrallysport replied to Merli's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Be careful with people who claim to sell DMS but aren't on their website, make sure they know what they're talking about... there's only a handful of people who deal directly with DMS regularly, and that's those distributors on their website. Let me know what you're after and I'll price it up for you. With the exception of really popular stuff (like Gravel and Tarmac rally suspension for EVO/WRX's) all DMS suspension is made on order, so 5-7 days from order is a more realistic time frame for delivery. Regards, Greg -
Brake Pads Users Ratings Guide
gslrallysport replied to Snowman's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Not Skyline, but feedback all the same... http://performanceforums.com/forums/showpo...mp;postcount=62 -
New Bendix Pads On The Market
gslrallysport replied to Rekin's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Just remember the RB pads are made by another manufacturer, and it's cheaper to buy it in their box... -
The fluid we use and recommend is the TRW GP600 brake fluid: TRW GP600 Dot 4 Racing Brake Fluid Dry - Min 310 Wet - Min 204 That's about the best out there short of Castrol SRF, or GS610. But significantly cheaper than either of them at $65 for a 1L bottle. For comparison, some other popular brands: Motul Dot 5.1 270 dry 185 wet Castrol Response Super Dot 4 286 dry 184 wet
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28mm and 16mm respectively.
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Series 2 Stagea- Front Brake Pads
gslrallysport replied to RS4StagMan's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
I can see it's in an Aus Brake Box, that doesn't tell me who makes it. Aus Brake are a distributor as you've said for QFM, who manufacture pads, to the best of my knowledge Aus Brake don't manufacture pads. I'm just curious as to what they're putting in their boxes cause that's definitely not a QFM pad. -
Series 2 Stagea- Front Brake Pads
gslrallysport replied to RS4StagMan's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Any idea who makes this pad? Or what it's performance is like? It's definitely not a QFM pad... -
From us getting the pads to shipping the finished product off can be up to 3 months. QFM's wait on manufacture of normal pads at the moment is about 2 months, so a month is enough for us to get them laser cut and sent away. ALSO, I'm tee'ing up with a US pad manufacturer to supply backing plates only to us for both front or rear. That will speed the process up a bit, but will be dependent on price. They're going to let me know later today!
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Red's are no where near a full race pad. Their friction levels are WAYYYY too low to be anywhere near a full race (or even weekend track) pad. Red Stuff is a fast street pad at best. Alot of people use them at the track because they will handle some good temperature, but their friction levels unfortunately handicap any sort of serious performance. It's not until you get into EBC Yellow or Blue stuff that you're talking about full race pads.
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Is that the HPS pad? They're a decent quality pad, but hardly a performance pad unfortunately. They're only good for about 450 degrees, and they're not recommended for track or hard street use, as their friction level falls off rapidly when that temp is exceeded.
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Front and rear, or just fronts? Either way DEAL!!! I'll pm you our address and details etc. Cheers, Greg
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Also, just further the above, anyone who supplies me with old pads, or ones that can be copied, (ie. S1 fronts, and S2 front and rear) will receive those pads free in either HPX or A1RM when they arrive. Regards, Greg