discopotato03

"GT-RS" is the fancy HKS name for a Garrett GT2871R 52T - only with a HKS turbine housing in T25/28 or T3 flange . The one in that picture is the version with Garretts T25/28 flanged GT28 turbine housing . The confusion with GT25/GT28 exists because what was once called a "GT25" turbine is now called a GT28 turbine or more specifically that 54mm 76T NS111 turbine . In todayspeak a GT2530 would be called a GT2830 , in fact the "GT2530" and GT-RS/GT2871R use the same identical turbine . The "GT-RS" comes in two distinct versions like the GT2530 does - one for T28 flange apps ie CA18/SR20DET and another for RB20/25DET . The RB specific GT-RS has a custom port shrouded compressor housing because HKS knows they'll surge without it on an I6 . The bottom line is if you want a conversion kit that goes bolt you'll need the HKS RB specific version . The reason is mainly because Garret have not manufactured an integral gate T3 flanged GT28 turbine housing let alone one with the RB dump flange pattern . Some here have had their RB25 turbos housings reprofiled to suit a GT2871R and at least doing it this way the thing bolts back between the std manifild and dump flanges . You need custom oil and water fittings/lines then because Garretts GT BB turbos use different (smaller) ones than the Nissan/Hitachi turbos do . There are a couple of other locally made turbine housings but I think the HKS one is the pick - given a choice . Cheers A .

Cubes the story with designations works like this . HKS GT2835 . The "GT28" means GT28 turbine housing , forget for a sec the cropped "GT30" turbine . GT35 in Garrett and HKS speak means GT35 compressor family and they are all ~ 71.1mm OD . Garrett compressors : GT30 = 60.1mm GT35 = 71.1mm GT37 = 76.2mm GT40 = 82 or 88mm The thing to remember with those 7/14 blade T04S compressors is the physical size of their native compressor housing . Because they have more blades and a less aggressive angle of attack on these blades they are a lower speed wheel (in comparison to the same sized GT37 series wheels which didn't exist when they were new) . T series compressors were designed to work with T series turbines though as we know they were paired with GT30 turbines in some early spec "GT30R's" . Sorry Mafia this is way OT but I'll finish what I started . Geoff tells me that the twin scroll system can have distinct effects on a GT BB turbos characteristics , remember how I prefer turbos that have turbine size in the ball park with compressor size ? An example of this would be a real GT3071R or a hybrid GT3576R . Geoff finds that turbos speced this way often feel lazy in single scroll form and very responsive in twin scroll form . I tend to think its a sad fact of life that single scroll turbine housings are very sensitive to A/R ratio because they feed the sum total of cylinder exhaust shots into one common passage and you get a constant flow effect at the housings turbine nozzle (for a given engine speed and load) . Divided housings don't have this because of the divider they get pressure rise and fall across the nozzles . Geoffs way of describing this is high manifold pressure when its required and low when low is required . So its probably a given that turbos like GT3076R's and GT3582R's work reasonably well with their single scroll GT30/35 turbine housings , the but is that GT truck bush/plate bearing turbos are almost always twin scroll and have a fairly large turbine for similar compressors ie the GT3571 and GT3576 . Actually I pulled down the compressor side of a GT3576 yesterday and it has the same compressor as a GT3076R with the diesel spec HP 84T GT35 turbine . Its turbine housing is split T4 flange 1.17 A/R and also twin divided integral wastegate as well . One wonders how this would work on a hybrid GT3576R ball bearing cartridge , the HKS manifold can mount this housing and the wastegates in the bag . I'd prefer the 1.05 A/R housing but we'll see what turns up . On topic there is someone at the Bluebird site manufacturing Torsen style diff centres for Nissan H190's and may be willing to do R200's if the market was there . I think the price was a little under 1G and those using them seem very happy . One persons view was "works like an open centre when you want it to and not when you don't" . It may be possible to have your cake and eat it in a road car with serious poke . Cheers A .

So Cubes is it up and running now ? Cheers A .

My vote for the HKS low cast manifold , cast/provision for ext gate/split pulsed/can take T3 or T4 flange . I also think that GT3540R (GT3582R) is a lot of turbo for the power . The difference in effort and money to go even a little over 300Kw seems to be vast and not always worth the outlay . Mafia here went to a lot of effort to drag 300Kw out of his mechanically std R33 RB25DET and did so with a GT3076R possibly with the Garrett GT30 .63 A/R integral gate exhaust housing , or was it the .82 A/R ? I've not been there myself but I think if you had the head ported and fitted Poncams the .82 A/R exhaust housing may give reasonable response depending on what you think is ok . Cheers .

If your HKS manifold is the one for the RB20/25DET then yes it has the T4 flange BUT the outlet ports and stud holes are split T3 pattern . If it were me I'd look at a divided housing GT3271 or possibly a GT3576 if I could find a suitable A/R housing for the 3576 . I think the 50mm gate will be too big and was under the impression that manifold used the HKS 40mm external gate ? Will get back later about other twin scroll turbo options because there may be a few useful things in the TA34 range . Cheers A .

1600-2000cc class is quite easy , its called Mazda MX5 . 50 50 weight distribution and suspension better than a lot of things of the box . Huge following in the US so just about everything out there for them . They call them Mazda Miata over there and theres about a fortnights reading at their various sites . Given a choice the slightly later BP18 powered car is the pic . Sold here and really clean examples dot the countryside . Only 2 seats but perfect for a club racer without lots of lard , cheers A .

T series wheels are dinosaurs as are T4 turbines . If you want to stay with a bush bearing Garrett based turbocharger I think you are better off looking into Garretts GT bush bearing turbos . Quite a bit cheaper that their GT ball bearing turbos and better overall than the old T3 and T4 based turbos/centre sections . They are based on the GT32/35/37/40 etc turbines . Cheers A . BTW what sort of power are you after on what engine ?

Another one to look out for is running the air filter beyond its capacity . If you can temporarily tap into the inlet system just down stream of the filter with a compound gauge it would tell you for sure . Once a filter imposes a flow limit nothing you can do to the ECU rev limit wise will help . It just means that atmospheric pressure can't push enough air through the filter and you get a pressure drop in the system . When power falls off does manifold pressure take a dive ? Cheers A .

Out of curiosity what didn't you like about the E11 V2 . I found that the software couldn't quite achieve what some features of the Autronic SMC I used could but my last Haltech was an E6 which is going back a fair bit . So much of how well engine management works depends on how well its load sensing device can signal whats going on inlet air wise , and in an age where inlet manifolds are being designed to suit air feed requirements pressure fluctuations IMO aren't a good indication of airflow through the system . You thoughts on the E11 ? Cheers Adrian .

A gasket is only designed to be used once , it does its job by being compressed and conforming to the surfaces its clamped in between . Once its removed there is no guarantee that it will compress again and this is often why they won't reseal . If this is a paper style gasket and silly money for what it is I'd use the old one as a template and draw up a new one on a sheet of gasket paper . You may need wad punches to get bolt/stud holes neat and accurate but if time is no prob its one way to save a buck . If its an exhaust manifold gasket then only one of the correct material will work . If RB30 gaskets can be cut up to suit the stud pattern and port sizes maybe an RB30ET gasket is the go . Cheers A . Edit : You may want to put a straight edge like a steel rule across that manifold face to make sure its flat and square .

I think water cooled T2/T25 plain bearing turbos used the same sized banjo bolts so if your friendly with a wrecker you could be in luck .

I was in a position of owning one of the cleanset DR30RS's around , the problem was always going to be the limitations that R0/R31's have in the suspension and brake dept . Sydney kid probably got sick of telling me about Nissans "Quantam Leap" from R31 to R32 . Mac' struts and semi trailing arm IRS have been overtaken by multilink designs like R32-4's have . Brake wise nothing readily available bolts on and when 5 stud hubs are a luxury the writing is on the wall . You can fit better engines to R31's but the package will be heavy and handling/breaks just so so . I don't regret having my S2 R33 mainly because the bolt on potential leaves any R30/31 for dead , just about everything has gone through major evolutions and it shows in every way . Drive wise the R33 is light years ahead of the DR30 . Your call .

You can get a T04/60-1 Garrett ball bearing turbo - I think they call them T4R . They are almost identical to A T04Z except they use a T04S 60-1 compressor pn 409535-1 . Can use all the same turbine housings and comes with the same T04S 0.70 A/R compressor housing . Personally I think for the power this turbo is overkill , the real Garrett GT3071R in twin scroll form can do 440 and if in the US talk to FullRace Motorsport . You may want to look into head work and cams for an SR20/KA24 because the turbo may not do so well on a mechanically std engine . BTW both the T04S 60-1 compressor and P trim turbine are hardly modern technology and you can do better . Cheers a .

You probably know that the Q45 MAF is another larger option for the PFC over the Z32 MAF . As a long shot JWT was good at cracking Nissan ECU's and using the Cobra MAF as an option but I'm not sure if Jim has a real time interface for factory ECU's . I've never found the time to look int AEM's EMS and the next (if I can find the time) will be the Mega Squirt but again if it locks you into a MAP sensor I don't want to know . I did have a quick glance at Autronic's site and I'm pretty sure the SM4 is a map based system so no good to me . Sorry for being so one eyed but IMO the Mass Air Sensor takes so much of the correction work (air temp/mass/density) out of tuning aftermarket computers that its not funny . Thoughts , cheers A .

This is my opinion only but I reckon you lose a bit of convienence if the dump/engine pipe is in one piece . The turbine housing outlet/dump pipe bolts can be a pain to work around in situ and I have to wonder if removing a turbo with the dump attached would be easier . You can get at the fasteners easily enough once the turbos been removed . Also if you needed to remove the engine pipe alone for some reason its very easy to drop- it off the bottom of a conventional dump pipe . All up to you guys but making things straightforward to work on saves knuckles and time in the long run . Thoughts ? Cheers A .

Been real busy , yes the non ball bearing Hitachi cartridge is smaller in diametre than the BB one where it slides into the exhaust housing as is the bolt circle diametre where the crab plates clamp them together . Not all the larger A/R BB exhaust housings have OP6 cast into them but the one I have does . Need to measure or after a while you can tell by looking down the throat so to speak . Cheers A .

Hi TomTomTuning , I'm a little curious what it is that falls short in your opinion of the Power FC . I'm not trying to change your mind but I'm wondering if theres something the PFC can't do or is a mass airflow metre thing . BTW guys , very interesting to hear that the Autronic SM4 can use a hotwire or mass air sensor as the load sensing device . If Aubers (sp ?) mob has got the circuitry in that ECU to suit a wide range of MAF sensors then thats a big plus . If I had to go stand alone and the SM4 can do it that would be my choice . The other thing I think is important is to be able to READ properly the Nissan 360 degree optical crank angle sensor . I don't accept the idea that have an approaching TDC reference pulse and 6 slots (1 for each cylinder) is acceptable nowdays . I did speak to Justin when he worked for EFI Technology (Haltech) and they were working towards their box talking directly to the Nissan 360 deg optucal sensor type CAS . When the Autronic can do it and use MAF sensing and do sequential injection and drive 6 coils I'd consider it . For what I want which is road and possibly a few track days eventually the PFC has me covered . The Nismo 550cc injectors I have and Z32/Q45 MAFS are an easy upgrade for me . Full Race Geoff tells me that the Apexi tuning software is fantastic and behind several million others I'd like it too - in English . Interesting discussion , cheers A .

Hardman I think I'd be removing the thermostat you have and making sure its working properly , ie sealing shut when its cool . I wouldn't think a coolant temp anywhere in the 70's and up should make any real difference to steady state fuel consumption . No engine would need enrichment by that stage so the only other factors I can think of would be possibly a little oil drag depending on viscosity and closed loop ECU settings . If anything cool air charge temps should allow ignition timing optomised around best mean torque rather than detonation protection I think . Cheers A .

That GT3240 may be a bit of overkill and have manifolding issues because only HKS had exhaust housings made for them and they are 0.87 A/R and T28 mounting flange . A T3 flanged GT3037/GT3076R would probably be a bit more responsive for the power . Cheers A .

From the compressor maps of the real GT3071R it should get there but I wouldn't count on it being responsive in large housing single scroll form . Didn't you used to say that a HKS GT2835 Pro S hit the straps at about 280-300 Kw because its the same compressor wheel just without the cropping on the turbine blades . I do have one idea on ice but no hints just yet - pending ... GCG was supposed to have had the GT3076R 52T though being a special order item it may not be discounted like that other IW GT3076R 56T you mentioned recently . I imagine its cheaper than HKS and you don't end up with the wrong turbine housing . How did your friends 0.87 A/R housing go ? Cheers A .

As I'm sure Gary would tell you the issue with large wastegates is how much gas they initially bypass when they first crack open . If the valve area is large for the application it bypasses lots , in fact so much that the exhaust gas velocity drops throught the turbine/housing enough to cost turbine/compressor speed so boost falls and so does the pressure signal to the wastegates diaphram . The result is cycling boost pressure and all sorts of tuning and power delivery antics . Turbine housing A/R . The want to have an early boost threshold is easy to understand but you must remember that at anything below the actuators reaction pressure you still get more exhaust restriction than would be ideal . So basically the turbine housing size has most of the say whilever the wastegate is sealed shut and if the exhaust gas flow is too great for the combined housing and wastgate to handle , the boost and very importantly turbine inlet or backpressure rises . The system is trying to tell you that it can't regulate itself and efforts to force the gate shut only worsten the situation . Take this to the grave and BTW this is not an attack on anyone just the facts . A wastegate is a "throttled" alternate exhaust gas path solely regulated by turbo boost air pressure . The aim is to throttle the exhaust gas velocity into the housing so that the speed of the turbine/compressor combination can be regulated . The greatest downfall of this system is that its totally exhaust gas pressure insensitive . You don't usually get boost creep in an OEM application because they are put together by engineers that look at it as a complete package and everything is sized to suit that package . IMO the 0.63 A/R GT30 turbine housing is not the best thing for a 56 comp trim GT3076R turbo - on any engine . To work well on boost the exhaust mass flow capacity is too low for its compressors air pumping abilities . To correct it either the turbine housing A/R needs to be increased to bring the exhaust flow capacity up , or the compressor capacity reduced to bring the airflow capacity down to match the lower exhaust flow abilities . As a side note my lists for HKS turbos show the 56T GT3037 (same cartridge as GT3076R 56T) was offered with 0.87 or 1.12 A/R turbine housings so they obviously didn't intend people to think these are a wide ranging response from low down turbocharger . I think I bashed at a post not long ago about the various GT3037 compressor trim options and their matching turbine housing A/R sizes . So from std off the shelf available turbos either a smaller compressor trim GT3076R ie 52T or the real GT3071R with its 56 trim 71mm compressor would be worth a look . Cheapest sloution ? Fit the 0.82 A/R Garrett housing and curse HKS for not making their 0.73A/R turbine housing with a T3 flange . The bottom line is your priorites of cost vs the result and only you can know that . Food for thought , cheers A .

IMO one of the better Japanese aftermarket exhausts ie Nismo or the PE2 , plenty out there second hand because some like making lots of noise . As for blow off valves , the factory fits quite effective closed throttle recirculation valves so why change it at modest power levels ? If I was going to do anything I'd fit the dual GTR ones but its probably not going to make much if any difference . Making noise makes you a target and the authorities are only too willing to let you pay for the privilege . Cheers A .

And a DR30RS rear anti roll bar or sway bar if you like .

Also a late DR30RS IC type ECU and a loom/AFM/Dropping resistor/airbox/EGR + idle pulse solenoids . Std castor/radius rods . Custom and wrapped turbo exhaust manifold with T25/28 flange , fabricated by AJ or the now closed Road & Rally Centre . I used it with a Garrett GT28RS (AKA GT2860RS) but I'm not sure if I want to part with the turbo itself . There's a 3" bend painted black with a reasonly large new K&N tapered air filter . Have dump pipe made to suit RB20/25 turbo on Gazell FJ exhaust manifold in a Bluebird , have VERY rare factory Gazell T3 turbo dump pipe . Also original Bluebird Z18ET Brake Booster inverted for FJ20 install . Has a Nabco 7/8 MC but the smart cookies can use a 1" Liberty master . Also genuine I think Nabco Gazell Clutch master Cylinder . Also Rare Bluebird Z18ET Triple S (SSS) Grill and SSS emblem . Also original Jap EFI Bluebird fuel tank and lift out swirlpot . So far engine and box spoken for , R200 LSD probably , DR rear brakes maybe . Big D scored the DR30 rear X member/halfshafts/A arms . Have one spare DR30 A arm . I'm unearthing all sorts of gold I'd forgotten I had , thats the problem with being a bower bird . Cheers A .

My biased opinion , Whitline SK works kit and a set of Michelin PP2's . Not cheap but very good compromise for mostly road and the odd track day . Capabilities better than many drivers out there and about the practical limit of money spent on a road car - for me anyway . I think the R32-4 range are good things but front end weight and overall size are an issue particularly in the R33's and GTR's . Its difficult to add mechanical strength and durability without adding substantial weight so the more strength thats required the more it weighs and so the cycle continues . Front end weight is no great advantage particularly with RWD only - you can only fit so much rubber up front and the wider that gets the more the wheels weigh and the more critical it becomes to keep all that rubber on the road . Traction can suffer because of the front to rear weight "balance" . 4WD like the GTR/GTS4 has obvious advantages but it comes with a significant weight penalty . One of the things that I thought hard about was the early days of 4WD road cars specifically the Audi Quatro and the homologation version the Quato Sport rallied in the Group B era . Its worth buying a copy of the Video/DVD "Too fast to Race" because it really shows up the shortcomings of the Quatro Sports inline 5 cylinder engine and the driving techniques needed to "hinge" the car aroud its centre of rotation if you know what I mean . The film of Michelle Mutone and Walter Rohl driving those works cars is mind boggling but eventually the monster was beaten by the smaller Pergeot (Sp ?) 205 T16 with its mid mounted inline 4 . The bottom line with any production car is working out how much its practical to spend and compare that against is there a superior platform out there in original form for similar money . Going fast is not hard to do but getting it to go where you point it is a major issue . Seroius speed without handling potential is suicidal . A