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Found 23 results

  1. So I have recently bought a 30det r32 skyline, but the problem I'm having Is that with the big air intake, the 500 hp fuel pump, the 1000cc injectors, the good ecu, along side the giant fkn garrett turbo that's rated upto 800bhp pushing at 18psi with a nistune set at a 7000rpm limit is only putting out 240kw. Sure it has a good tourqe curve with the 3L block with a 25de head but shouldn't bottom line bhp be more? I'll post some photos of work done on it and photos of engine but please tell me how I can get this to the 400 kw animal it should be
  2. so basically im looking to build a 30de engine i want to go high comp na for whatever reasons that dont really matter at this point haha 1 point left cant drive turbo blah blah blah all the usual shit THE BLOCK what i want to build consists of a 30e block, crank and rods, 25de pistons shave the block 1mm to get the pistons up a bit because they sit 1mm further down the 30e pistons. THE HEAD this will be a det neo head with re lapped valves stock springs. either 250ish degree regrinds or 260 degree poncam drop ins with an adjustable exhaust cam gear and stock intake stuff to keep variable timing. im going to just skim the head this should bring the compression to somewhere around 12:1. im going to grub screw the oil gallerie in the block and run a head oil drain kit. im going to drill and tap an oil gallery in the side of the block to run a hard line up to the vct stuff pics below. and ill be porting the head myself a decent amount but i wont be going crazy. i need advice on what i should do for the intake manifold. do i a lave the stock neo intake manifold on to get the engine in and work out any bugs. B use a neo freddy plenum. or C relocate the vct solenoid and go to rb26 itbs using an adapter plate and some ram tubes on the itbs of some sort. the other thing i need to know is exactly where to put the stud for the new tensioner for the timing belt and if it differs from the standard r33 25det head conversion.. my final goal is as close to 160kw as possible on e85 and im going to be revving it as high as it wants to make power. i was thinking cap the revs at 7500 cause i reckon it will drop off before then anyway. anyone got any tips or advice on things i should change or shit i just completely overlooked. anything really cause this is all theory in my head based off other builds
  3. I've had this R33 for a little over 1 year, slowly gathering parts and building the engine during that time. During the last couple months I've had some spare time and all the parts ready to go. So it's finally, slowly, coming together. I picked it up in Darwin for 2.5k, and while pretty rough, was a standard manual S1 GTS-T. It came with alot of spares that I've since sold off to fund useful parts. The parts list for it; Haltech plugin pro ECU RB30DET, Spool rods, CP pistpons (20thou oversize), Raw Brokerage oil pump drive, Spool billet oil pump gears, Tomei springs and poncams (R33 25 head). Spool high volume oil sump MetalJacket Balancer GTX35 from Proboost 6Boost manifold, 48mm gate 3.5" cat back exhaust RIPS intake plenum 350Z 6 Speed transmission (CD009). Adapter plate, flywheel and clutch to suit from MA-Motorsports Z Speed Performance concentric slave 350Z Yolk installed onto tailshaft and tailshaft lengthened - waiting for next pay R33 GTR Diff once the standard one dies gktech drop knuckles when a GTR diff goes in Turbosmart FPR 1200 -8AN fuel feed line, -6AN return LS2 coils - coming soon Velo bucket seat + harness Greddy oil relocation thermostat + oil cooler PWR Intercooler Project Mu handbrake shoes Coolant header tank next to brake booster Power Steering cooler and belt Idler gktech front lock knuckles D2 coilovers Still thinking about the majority of the fuel setup. Trimming the fat a bit to recap progress in pics. So going back about a year or so, I started building the 2530. Brass plug removed for VCT mod Internal VCT mod. 2mm down the guts and 1.5mm out the side Oil gallery welded shut New stem seals, valves, Tomei valve springs, lifters and Tomei Poncams Block machined 20thou oversize and a 5mm deep cutout, 15mm in, to clear the exhaust flange No better workshop than your own room All the gear from MA-Motorsports for the 350Z gearbox conversion Bellhousing machined as required for the conversion Adapter plate bolted down And the RB25 automatic bellhousing bolted down With the Z Speed Performance concentric slave installed. Had to drill a few holes for the clutch lines Test fit for clearence, tailshaft measuring and crossmember modding Mounting point is slightly out. The crossmember has already been modded and fits a treat. The shifting position is out by 240mm. gktech should have something to address this soon, hopefully. My return to system from the header tank My effort to save some cash. My $50 beats Ross balancers $330. Power steering belt idler using a subaru timing belt idler, GMB part #JBT658B Engine bay at the moment. The good manifolds will go on once I know the engine doesn't need to come out again. Box out for some minimal tunnel massaging and general tinkering. The 350Z box is actually shorter than all of these. As the old girl sits now.
  4. 1993 R32 GTST, RB30DET, 281 RWKW + Mods 1993 R32 GTST M-Spec, Owned since 2004 @ 128,000km....Current km ~175,000km PRICE: $10,000 ONO CONTACT: 0401 317 009 (David) ENGINE RB25/30DET (R32 RB25DE head, RB30E series 2 block) CP 9:1 Forged Pistons Spool 4340 H Beam Rods ARP rod fasteners ACL Race Series main bearings ACL Race Series big end bearings ARP head bolts Cometic MLS head gasket refer to - http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan/rb30det-rebuild-kit/holden-nissan-rb30det-dohc-rebuild-kit-with-cp-forged-pistons-9-0-1 This motor probably only has about 7000km on it from when it was built in 2011. Garrett GT3076R 0.82 A/R Turbo 3 inch metal intake pipe to turbo Trust VSPL FMIC Blitz DSBC Dual Stage boost controller (Low boost ~15 PSI, High Boost ~19-20 PSI) Q45 AFM Bosch 550cc Injectors NisTune R32 RB20DET computer with map to suit above setup on BP98 Bosch 040 fuel pump Nismo adjustable fuel regulator 3" Turbo back exhaust (Bell mouth style dump to suit GT30 to Catalytic converter to resonator, to JUNBL rear muffler) I have parts of a replacement exhaust system which would quiet it down a little more which I'd throw in. Power - makes 281 RWKW on Jaustech's dyno (can attach dyno plot)...240 of those RWKW available from about 4000RPM. Could crack the 300 RWKW with bigger injectors and a Z32AFM. DRIVELINE RB25GTST G/box (std internals) Nismo engine mounts Nismo gearbox mounts Jim Berry "race" clutch (reasonably light on the foot, but does bite hard) OEM flywheel Modified RB20 GTST tail shaft (w/ RB25 yoke) to suit gearbox and diff STD OEM V-LSD diff (I have an R34 RB25 Neo torsen differential at home which is easy to fit up...just needs backlash to be setup) STD OEM driveline otherwise (more than adequate for the power output) SUSPENSION Full Sydneykid Bilstein/Whiteline setup (http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85591-r32-gtst-whiteline-bilstein-suspension/): Bilstein B4 "c" clip height adjustable shocks valved to suit suspension setup Whiteline "lowered" (25mm lower than stock) springs Whiteline front and rear fixed anti roll bars Whiteline front upper camber arms (adjustable) Whiteline front adjustable castor bushes Whiteline rear camber arms (outer IIRC) Volk Racing GT-P's (old school) 8" fronts, 9" rears IIRC (they came with the car back in 2004) Bridgeston Adrenaline RE001 235/45/17 fronts and rears IIRC Not fitted but will chuck in - Whiteline HICAS elimination kit Whiteline subframe replacement bushes (NOT PINEAPPLES) Superpro diff bushes Superpro steering rack bushes few other odds and ends which I have accumulated over the years BODY Genuine R32GTR front bar (will throw in the OEM mesh that goes over the intercooler) R32 GTR rear wing R32 GTR rear boot Will throw in: GTR style fibreglass side skirts (in primer) R32 GTST boot/wing Issues - one of the rear quarters has a sizeable dent in it about the size of a football and about as deep as a book (thickness). I have been quoted about $600 to fix it and paint. The boot also has a small dent in it also. IIRC I was quoted about $1000 (maybe a touch more) to fit the side skirts, fix the dents and paint. Will post photos when I get a chance. MISC R32 GTR centre console tripple gauges (not connected) Alpine head unit GReddy turbo time (not connected) Viper (unknown model) immobiliser Not fitted but will throw in: Focal 6.5" front splitters (cost me $500 at the time and never fitted) Alpine 4 channel amp wiring kit to suit the above Viper immobiliser (remote start capable, few other features) There's probably a few other things I've missed out but that will do for now... Reason for selling - I cannot economically justify owning it anymore! Pictures are located here -
  5. rb25det gearbox on rb30det - Hi guys, my r33 that my brother and I converted to rb30det was tuned over the weekend and we installed a heavy duty organic clutch hoping to have that as the weak point to not put so much strain on the driveline and it's getting bent over anywhere above about 420bhp so basically were going to take it out and install the triple plate I've got for it but I'm concerned having a direct clutch how much power the gearbox and diff (both in good nick but both standard) are going to be able to stand up against. Ive been told the gearbox is the weak point and will break sooner rather than later once you get over 400-450bhp area especially with the triple plate clutch so if anyone could clarify or correct that I would appreciate it. It will mostly be a street/weekend car but it will definitely see the drag strip a few times and maybe Wakefield so if I go with the triple plate how far can I turn it up before I'm going to break everything behind it? Anyone have any alternatives? Car made 424hp on wastegate pressure before the clutch started slipping
  6. 550RWHP R32 RB30DET 550 RWHP - RB25/30 R32 SKYLINE $15,000 ono Registered, no defects, fresh custom paint, registered but prefer to sell unregistered unless buyer arranges RWC. I imported the car from Japan 10 years ago, fairly stock. The car has always been street registered and driven but was mainly used as track/ drift car. Bodywork is a little rough, but paint job is new and good quality. Engine – All work done by Elite Racing Developments and Chilton Engineering. RB30 block and grub screwed and prepped stock crank, block acid bathed and rehoned with oil restrictors fitted on the feed to the head with oil baffle, -10 speed flow fittings and external oil drain lines from the back of the head to the block. Tomei oil pump and crank collar and 8 litre ASR gated and baffled sump. Spool RB30 forged conrods, custom Mahle pistons 8.6:1 static compression ratio, ACL race bearings, 1mm oversize valves, new valve springs and full VRS kit. HKS 264 degree cams and adjustable cam gears, 30hrs head porting and intake match porting. HKS oil cooler, 600 x 300 x 100 intercooler with 3 inch alloy piping and genuine Q45 throttle body and Greddy intake plenum. Nismo 740cc injectors, Sard fuel regulator, Bosch Blue Motorsport fuel pump feeding the fuel rail with R32 GTR in tank lift pump filling a 2L alloy surge tank in the boot. GT37/88R 0.96/AR rear housing, custom steam pipe exhaust manifold, 4 inch exhaust from turbo with V-Band clamps back to centre high flow 4 inch metalcat catalytic converter to rear resonator and 5 inch canon muffler. Wolf V500 tuned by EFI Performance on 98 octane pump fuel, 550rwhp @ 18psi. Chassis / Driveline / ECT: RB25DET 5 Speed rebuilt, short shifter, NPC single plate clutch with 3200lb pressure plate, Tomei 2 way mechanical diff, R32GTR brakes. Front adjustable castor arms, camber arms, Rear camber arms and HICAS lockbar, HKS coilovers front and rear. Strut braces front and rear. 17 inch white 5 spoke rims with new tyres, comes with a total of 20 rims most with tyres. 1 full set of 16 inch stock R33 rims the rest are all 17 inch sets of assorted Japanese rims for drifting. Interior is factory except for genuine Sparco fixed back racing seat with low rise rail and 4 point harness. Autometer LFG water temp, oil temp and oil pressure gauges, Greddy Profect B II electronic boost controller (twin solenoid) with LCD screen as boost gauge. Car is very fast and super reliable, drifted regularly and always driven to and from the track.
  7. Newb intro for Patrol RB build Not sure the intro will be beneficial but hey lets see. Thinking about dropping an rb25/30 into mt rd28 gq. Instead of throwing money at the boat anchor that will probably do its head this may be a sensible way to go. Any info/links would be appreciated especially specic to the gq transplant. Thanks gents and gent-ettes
  8. Its been a while since I was last on here...not a lot has changed haha The time has come where I cannot justify (economically) running my skyline. $1000 a year in rego and a tad less in insurance (full comp) burns a hole in my pocket when realistically I do not drive it often enough to enjoy it. This is not a decision which I have taken lightly (it was my first car back in 2004) and I will in no way get back the money I have put into it (probably $20,000 over the 11 years of ownership). Anyway - I'm after some advice of what I should be asking. Rough specs/mods as follows: 1993 R32 GTST M-Spec Owned since 2004 @ 128,000km....Current km ~175,000km ENGINE RB25/30DET (R32 RB25DE head, RB30E series 2 block) CP 9:1 Forged Pistons Spool 4340 H Beam Rods ARP rod fasteners ACL Race Series main bearings ACL Race Series big end bearings ARP head bolts Cometic MLS head gasket refer to - http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan/rb30det-rebuild-kit/holden-nissan-rb30det-dohc-rebuild-kit-with-cp-forged-pistons-9-0-1 This motor probably only has about 7000km on it from when it was built in 2011. Garrett GT3076R 0.82 A/R Turbo 3 inch metal intake pipe to turbo Trust VSPL FMIC Blitz DSBC Dual Stage boost controller (Low boost ~15 PSI, High Boost ~19-20 PSI) Q45 AFM Bosch 550cc Injectors NisTune R32 RB20DET computer with map to suit above setup on BP98 Bosch 040 fuel pump Nismo adjustable fuel regulator 3" Turbo back exhaust (Bell mouth style dump to suit GT30 to Catalytic converter to resonator, to JUNBL rear muffler) I have a 3" "big" magna flow middle muffler that I was intending to fit which I would throw in to replace the resonator Power - makes 281 RWKW on Jaustech's dyno (can attach dyno plot)...240 of those RWKW available from about 4000RPM. Could crack the 300 RWKW with bigger injectors and a Z32AFM. DRIVELINE RB25GTST G/box (std internals) Nismo engine mounts Nismo gearbox mounts Jim Berry "race" clutch (reasonably light on the foot, but does bite hard) OEM flywheel Modified RB20 GTST tail shaft (w/ RB25 yoke) to suit gearbox and diff STD OEM V-LSD diff (I have an R34 RB25 Neo torsen differential at home which is easy to fit up...just needs backlash to be setup) STD OEM driveline otherwise (more than adequate for the power output) SUSPENSION Full Sydneykid Bilstein/Whiteline setup (http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85591-r32-gtst-whiteline-bilstein-suspension/): Bilstein B4 "c" clip height adjustable shocks valved to suit suspension setup Whiteline "lowered" (25mm lower than stock) springs Whiteline front and rear fixed anti roll bars Whiteline front upper camber arms (adjustable) Whiteline front adjustable castor bushes Whiteline rear camber arms (outer IIRC) Volk Racing GT-P's (old school) 8" fronts, 9" rears IIRC (they came with the car back in 2004) Bridgeston Adrenaline RE001 235/45/17 fronts and rears IIRC Not fitted but will chuck in - Whiteline HICAS elimination kit Whiteline subframe replacement bushes (NOT PINEAPPLES) Superpro diff bushes Superpro steering rack bushes few other odds and ends which I have accumulated over the years BODY Genuine R32GTR front bar (will throw in the OEM mesh that goes over the intercooler) R32 GTR rear wing R32 GTR rear boot Will throw in: GTR style fibreglass side skirts (in primer) R32 GTST boot/wing Issues - one of the rear quarters has a sizeable dent in it about the size of a football and about as deep as a book (thickness). I have been quoted about $600 to fix it and paint. The boot also has a small dent in it also. IIRC I was quoted about $1000 (maybe a touch more) to fit the side skirts, fix the dents and paint. Will post photos when I get a chance. MISC R32 GTR centre console tripple gauges (not connected) Alpine head unit GReddy turbo time (not connected) Viper (unknown model) immobiliser Not fitted but will throw in: Focal 6.5" front splitters (cost me $500 at the time and never fitted) Alpine 4 channel amp wiring kit to suit the above Viper immobiliser (remote start capable, few other features) There's probably a few other things I've missed out but that will do for now... I will post pictures when I get a chance! TL;DR - give me a rough price that I should sell the above for. Cheers!
  9. Building rb30det So i am going to start building a RB30DET to go into my r32 gts-t and i am after opinions on the parts i am looking at using so far. Rb30de block - already has turbo provisions rb26dett head JE forged pistons 0.5mm ovbersized Spool rods 272 degree 10.1 Reimax race camshafts with supporting head mods Proflow intake plenum 6 boost exhaust manifold Borg warner s300sx-e 69mm 1200cc deatschwerks injectors. 3 x top speed 345LPH fuel pumps Yaris coil pack conversion 1.2mm oil restrictor ACL race bearings rb26 head studs will be using a rb26dett gearbox converted to rwd running factory steel rb26 adjustable cam gears Looking for recommendations on ECU Tailshaft drive shafts head gasket
  10. RB25/30DET forged parts-brand new I really don't want to sell off my current engine build but I cannot justify it sitting around when my current Rb25 is still very healthy. This is my loss and your gain. All parts are brand new and never run, only assembled waiting for more funds to get the spare head done up so I could bolt it on and swap everything across. CP flat top rb30 pistons. 86.5mm bore size. $1000 Rb30 forged H beam rods with arp bolts. $500 Arp head studs. Never installed. $250 Arp main studs rb30. $300 King race main and rod bearings. Standard sized. $200 Rb30 block. Acid dipped, decked, bored to suit above pistons, genuine welsh plugs replaced, 1.2mm oil restrictors, main oil returns drilled to 10mm. $200 Rb30 crank, polished, balanced and wider oil pump drive fitted. $200 Dayco timing belt-suit rb30det #94407. $30 Permaseal multi layer head gasket. 87mm bore. 1.3mm thick #s244mlsr. $250 Permaseal standard headgasket. Standard bore. $30 Located in South Australia in the Adelaide hills but happy to freight for a little extra. Pm me or reply here if you are interested. Adam
  11. RB30DET Swapped R31 Wagon 9th of November last year i sold my fire breathing 12a monster bridge port Series 1 RX-7 to my flat mate at the time I then proceeded to buy my first R31 off of my cousin i drove it round for little over a week before it ran a bottom end so i rang a mate who builds engines and told him what i wanted to do and he pulled through building me a 30det from the poor little 30e donk originally fitted to the old tart 2 weeks went by and then he rung me up to say it was ready so in it went i lost my original FFP, Topmount and GT35 in the process of moving house to lockup and then lockup to storing the car at my parents to work on it while i moved into their sleepout to save money while i study at polytech this year I then proceeded to get more than the shite factory steering lock and well and truly succeeded by swapping out the factory LCA and strut assembly and retrofitting Cefiro LCA and shocks with lowering springs which i have now replaced the shocks with a set of JDM Juran adjustable shocks cheers to a childhood friend Riley so i can adjust the stiffness up front I Then brought another Plazamann FFP and proceeded to go factory side mount with one of China's finest Blue Label T3T4 turbos and a 38mm wastegate which i later sold to a mate when I decided i was going for decent power I then proceeded yet again to opt for some china and brought the holy grail T70 Now before you start at me with the whole "you're going to have so much lag" crap i opted for a bigger turbo so i had more drive-ability round town etc, i found a set of COPs i had lying round from a v6 honda so started to wire them in then i got all pedantic on hiding wiring and proceeded to tuck almost every wire possible other than about 50cm worth of the main harness that i couldn't tuck I'm still yet to fire it up as had a Link G4 ecu that failed and melted itself my new one finally arrived this week so will keep you all posted on how its progressing as i currently have my right arm wrapped in plaster due to it having surgery on it after being slammed in the van door the other week on the piss
  12. This is the story of my R32 GTS25. Time to try and keep track of everything that has been done to the car as it is getting way out of hand! It started off in the hands of Scott (previous owner) as a standard R32 GTS25 with an RB25DE from factory. He added a few mods, mainly suspension, 5 stud conversion, wheels, GTR Kit, half cage plus much more. Then I bought it, added new control arms and new wheels but stayed more or less the same car for a couple of years. After a few stacks id ruined the front bar, new wheels and control arms. Which meant buying them all again. Keeping any real progress on the car at a stand still. Came to a point with the car that I really wanted to start making more power although wasn't sure on an engine swap as the factory rb25 is so rare and a I didnt want to put it on the same playing field as any old GTST. Eventually decided to keep the RB25DE Head and add an RB30 Block. Essentially it would still appear to be the same motor under the hood. But it didnt take long for me to start dreaming about turbos and then the plan changed involving a low mount turbo set up keeping it relatively inconspicuous. Going from the naturally aspirated motor to a turbo motor involved a lot more than adding a turbo, it is surprising how different a GTST is to a GTS25. So if I was to go this far, why stop there? I decided I needed a donor car and that way I could swap over front and rear cross members as well in case of any damage to mine and I would have all the necessary parts to convert to turbo. Then the challenge was to find a clean R32 GTST without breaking the bank. Not long after, I quit my full time job and took what was to be at first, a short unpaid break. Luckily around the same time I found a GTST with low km's and was clean and straight, so I sold my bike and bought the second 32. The new 32 had recently had an RB30DET conversion although it had thrown a rod and wasn't running. It did have plenty of parts that I could steal though including a Garret GT35, HKS manifold, Cams and much more. So I pulled the whole thing apart. Gave this block to my engine builder and he worked out that the cylinders had been over bored which lead to fuel leaking into the crank case and onto bearings, and eventually killed the bearings and ruined a few rods in the process. So I bought a standard series II RB30 block and gave it to him to start from scratch. New over sized bore and hone Decked block Crank Grind and Crank Colla fitted Modified Crank Oil Ways ACL Race Bearings 40. Thou Oversized Forged Pistons While the new block was in the shop, I pulled the GTS25 apart. From here I proceeded to make things worse by removing the interior, loom, ecu, steering rack, front crossmember, rear crossmember and all suspension. Slowly the GTS25 started to go back together using the best parts from both cars and more. Tein Coilovers R33 Control Arms Adjustable Camber Arms Adjustable Upper Control Arms Adjustable Castor Arms Nismo 2 way LSD Plus a whole lot more Next the New block had to be prepped to go in. I went to Nissan and ordered genuine gaskets for everything. They are a rip off, probably because its not every day someone wants genuine RB30 gaskets but at least I have the peace of mind now. Mate at Mercedes cleaned up an N1 GTR Oil pump, rear main, water pump for me. Drilled and tapped tensioner studs in the block then it was all assembled. The fresh engine was attached to an RB25DET gearbox with a button clutch and short shift kit and ready to drop into the car. Before it went in though I cut holes for cooler piping and intake while I had the space. Engine and transmission in. Now waiting for Head Gasket and Head Studs to arrive so fitted up oil cooler, intercooler and power steering coolers. A ton of metal had to be grinded out of the reo to fit but it all bolted up nicely in the end. New Cometic Metal Head Gasket and ARP Head Studs arrived and the head could finally go on. RB25DE Head is ported and polished with new cams and cam gears. Cam gears on and set at zero. Both manifolds were port matched and now ready to bolt on. HKS low mount exhaust manifold needed some modification to bolt up as the taller RB30 block stood in the way. Cooler piping to go on, 50mm HKS wastegate, Greddy boost controller, vacuum lines. An RB26DETT Apexi Power FC was installed along with a Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller. Then the arduous task of installing the new loom which was much bigger than the standard loom! Port matched intake on, 800cc injectors in and start playing connect the hose. Few more goodies to go in, 25% under driven harmonic balancer, Alloy Radiator, Bosch 044 Fuel Pump and she will be ready to fire up. Pulled it out of the garage, bled the clutch, bled the brakes, did an extremely accurate wheel alignment by eye and she was ready to fire up for her first drive. Started first go and ran beautifully... Until the oil filter sandwich plate cracked and started pissing oil... So it was back in the garage for now. The sandwich plate wasn't as easy to find as I had hoped so I switched the fitting back to standard and screwed on the standard filter to get it going. First drive went well, broke in the new motor hard, low revs 100% throttle. Bringing it home I hit a bump hard and all of a sudden it stopped running. Towed it home and ended up here. Spent a whole day in the driveway testing everything, pulling out spark plugs, testing all sensors yet couldn't even get it to idle. So brought it in, gave it a good wash, parked it in the garage and drove to Melbourne the next morning not to return for 3 months.
  13. j2fast

    Wtb Rb30

    Hello, I am looking for RB30 short block, my block got damaged and need a new set. I would like to buy from 1 -4 blocks. please let me know what you have. I would also like to have series 2 but doesn't have to be. thanks in advance
  14. So my Stagea's engine is almost complete so i thought id share my journey. It started out as a clean 2000 model c34 rs-v with just a couple of neat mods but that would all change. I found these pics from when it was first imported. It runs the RB25DET Neo motor with the 4 speed tip-tronic auto trans and rear wheel drive making it fun :-) When i purchased the stag the previous owner had installed a large aluminium radiator, return flow stealth intercooler and had it tuned with nistune @ Willall racing. 194.8kW and 637.4Nm of torque atw. Not too bad considering its essentially stock. So after owning it for about 6 months i finally got my butt and decided to put on some rims i had laying around from my dads Mitsubishi GTO. So once i had put some rims on her i knew she was looking a little bit of a 4wd so i started to look at coilovers and of course rear camber arms as to keep the best stance and handling. When i came across racing logic in NSW, not bad price but most important great service. And i turned to GK Tech for the camber arms from Sleeka spares. Stay tuned for the fitment
  15. Hi guys selling my RB30DET Darton sleeves. Bought for my project but wasnt needed. Paid $1000 for them, still in box. Asking $600 Contact me on my mobile if possible Christian 0423 756 123
  16. FS: rb30 block from a patrol, 180k kms. (see pics/below for condition) -$400 r33 rb25det stock intake manifold (overhead plenum, runners, throttle body) - $50 r33 rb25det stock injectors and fuel rail - $50 r33 rb25det stock exh manifold, small crack, suit repairs - $10 All prices are negotiable. Block is good condition, but could use a clean. Comes with pulleys, sump, flywheel, etc. Great for 25/30 conversion - could easily be used without ripping apart. Was going to use in said conversion but decided to stick with my neo for a while longer as I am not chasing ridiculous power figures.
  17. FS: rb25/30 Pretty much everything needed to do a dohc turbo 3L conversion. Both head and bottom end good condition, but could definitely use a clean. No conversion processes have been done - block vct oil feed/new pulley, etc Head came off low km r33 s2 (apparently Hyperdrive supplied it) 99% complete - comes with manifolds, cams, covers, fuel rail and injectors etc. Only things I can't see are coilpacks and valley cover. 30 bottom end off patrol with 180k kms. Only taken out for conversion. Head gasket still intact, bores and piston heads look good condition, etc. Comes with all spare parts that are laying near it for them. Bought to do a conversion on my car, but as I have an r34 I wanted a neo head (didn't research properly when buying this) and after adding up all the costs, I will just run the neo in my car as there is nothing wrong with it, for now. Asking $800. Located SOTR, WA.
  18. Hey forum I am back once again for the advice of the pros. I have not posted in awhile but been doing a lot of reading and topic watching, been a member for awhile and I must say this forum has helped me out tremendously. Had running a built rb25 in a 95 R33 with extensive mods for years and only recently cause of my negligence I have broken it. Sad sad day very sad , had an oil leak that i neglected and spun the rod bearing which messed up the crank and I said long ago if I ever had to go back into the engine it was rb30 or nothing. So guess what its rb30 time. I really only have one major question that I need advice on and it is as the topic says, what would be the better choice to go with if you ultimately had to make a choice between pistons or rods for a rb30 build? Car will be a daily driver and only looking for 400 to 500 wheel hp for now. If I decide to go any higher which will be awhile from now I will take it down and install the part/parts I need. I looked through all the threads and no real definitive answer thats why i decided to make a topic. Car is a 95 R33 gtst and I basically have everything I need for the install and with the budget I have opted to focus more on oil flow, oil return, block and head tidy up. For build I have sourced: N/A rb30 with oil and coolant holes already drilled Acl bearings main and rod 1.3mm MLS head gasket Reimax oil gears N1 oil pump N1 water pump Crank collar Head drain mod Vct external feed Valve stem seals Using hx40 turbo, meth injection, velocity stack intake mani, ss t4 twin scroll exhaust mani, 850cc injectors, walbro e85 400lph intank fuel pump, pfc, etc.... from cars previous setup. After all of this from what is left of the budget I have a choice to make between rods or pistons and do not know which to chose that's why I am calling on you to help me chose the better of the two that suits my build. All suggestions are welcome. I was thinking pistons as i can strengthen the rods up a little by replacing the rod bolts. What do you guys think?
  19. Hi all, I am currently in the middle of Building/Converting an RB30DET S14 Facelift and require some opinions from people with experience. I am aiming at a 400-450Hp (300-350KW) build, I am mid-way through and need some help deciding between a few items, I am not to stressed on the money side of things but prefur not to be paying out the ass for unnecessary items that dont give much power output. This is the build I have in mind and wondering if there are any things that people would change or would rate. RB30 block from VL auto Commedore (Honed and Dipped) Rb25DE head TopMount Manifold with 44MM wastegate 750-850cc Injectors Ultra Spark Coil packs Garret Turbo, either GT35R, TA3410 or GT3076. ( has anyone dealt with chinese rip-ops of these turbos and know if they are anywhere worth it? have been told not to bother but never heard of anyone having one blow up on them ) Have a crank collar, New water pump, Oil restricters etc I have a mate building this with me who is definately more switched on when it comes to RB's so ignore if I sound a little new to this. This is where i need help on deciding things. - I have read RB20DET gear boxes can only handle upto 400hp safely so i'm assuming a 25DET one will be needed? - Also I need help deciding on what internals to replace with aftermarket parts, am I right in saying cams would be a better investment than pistons/Conrods? -Should I replace the valves and valvesprings in the head as I read they are 400HP capable and would rather be safe than sorry. also does this make a power increase? -Are N1 Oil pumps worth it? there are very mixed feelings on these I have found, I am not going to be doing limiter raping skids or anything just after a nice sounding car with decent speed There is a place near where I live (Christchurch, New Zealand) that I have heard great things from when it comes to dyno tuning and have heard they provide there own ECU's so thats where I will be going at the end of my build. I am open to all suggestions so please feel free to post your builds and power outputs.
  20. For anyone interested in buying a new plenum, Custom plenum creations (cpc) have a group buy going on at the moment. The thread is on calaisturbo.com but i'm sure there wouldn't be a problem if SAU members want in on it too. thread here>>> http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?p=3011196#post3011196 <<
  21. This has been a build that started almost 2 years ago due to lack of time and $$. This is going to be heavy on the pics and light on the words as im not big on words.. It all began when i was looking for a car and came across this A31 in below average condition but well priced. From memory i paid $2400 for it with 5 months wof left & 6 months rego so just decided to drive it untill it ran out. The plan being in that time i would find a better shell and swap all the gear over. That proved harder than i thought it took almost a year to find what i wanted . This is where it began. RB20DET, Manual, Lsd etc etc By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 This is the replacement. Im the 2nd NZ owner, an old guy owned it for 17 years and i only got it because he passed away. By cefiro at 2011-12-27 By cefiro at 2011-12-27 By cefiro at 2011-12-27 By cefiro at 2011-12-27 This is the engine out of the origional car. By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-12-27 By jdmyo at 2011-08-19 By cefiro at 2011-12-27
  22. Hi guys, I am after a rebuilt RB30 bottom end that has had all the work ready to bolt a 26 head on to. I don't require turbo's, manifolds or anything like that a I already have the 26 in the car. I know there are already a few available interstate but would prefer to buy locally. Let me know what you have Thanks
  23. Hi guys and girls just wondering what a good static comp ratio would be for a RB25/30 turbo runnin 15-25 psi cheers
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