Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have owned both auto and manual cars in the past, and for around town driving the auto wins. But once you hit the twisty stuff (whether roads or the track) the auto becomes a royal pain in the arse. I prefer a manual simply because of this, and I just put up with the rowing through the gears around town.

If I commuted in heavy traffic in my car I would seriously have considered an auto instead. But auto boxes in general are a sloppy bitch and I prefer to tell the gears what to do directly. Since my car is mostly a weekend warrior there's no sense in it being an auto.

If you are just looking to improve quarter mile times though, stick with the auto. No sense changing the box one way or the other just for that, unless you are aiming for sub 11's or so. In which case the auto with high stall is better.

This Thread was started on " 07-02-2003" try and not bring up threads that are almost a year old. Cheers

sorry redlineGTR I disagree...why start a new thread and say the same things all over again?

Better to dig up an old thread from the dead and continue the discussion

Couldn't agree more Duncan.

As for an Auto versus Manual,,,the manual has to win but only if the cars a daily driver. Who in there right mind would want to drive around the streets with a 3500 stall converter. My neighbours got a 11 sec commodore and it's nothing but a pain in the arse. He actually loves my Skyline only because it's not revving it's head off ALL the time.

Also BMW's SMG M3's while being an auto shifting manual are slower over the 1/4 than the H pattern version and a lot more troublesome.

Neil.

Also remember that the BMW, Alfa, Ferarri and Maserati systems are clutchless manuals, not automatics with up/down buttons.

Personally I think there is a world of difference between the two, autos are far slower to shift....and whats the point of an auto if you always shift it manually.

I'd take the bettter control any day.

Hi guys, it is so much easier and cheaper to build a 9 sec car with an auto. Easier because you can have a narrower per band. Cheaper to buy ($5k versus $17K) and cheaper to maintain as it is much gentler on the rest of the drive line.

In a circuit race car I couldn't even consider an auto.

In a road car, well if I drove only in traffic all the time, then I would have to consider an auto. But I don't, so its a manual for me.

So horses for courses you might say.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...