Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Silly question time again.... since swapping back to the Std ECU from the mine's, i've noticed a few things and was after some answers!

The car is a R33 SII, '96. T3/4 Hybrid Turbo, 17/255's on the rear (Yokie Advan's) - Currently running at 12 psi boost, FMIC, Boxed Pod, Fuel reg.

Last dyno - 197rwkw, with the mines, running quite rich.

Ughknown exactly what the turbo is, will know next major service, and i'll have it out. Low mount, with what looks like a nissan badged actuator (goldish coloured)

The Mine's ECU seems to have the following :

No Speed Cut,

Way better tune,

Different Boost control,

Tuned for Japanese fuel.

My 'Standard ECU' - It looks standard, doesn't look like it's ever been opened, but...

Tame feeling at WOT (aka no major loss of grip in 1st, 2nd etc)

Runs rich,

Different boost control to the mine's (will explain in a bit)

NO SPEED CUT - Checked on private roads of course.

Tuned for fuel ;-)

As i'm missing the feel of the mines ECU, time to see if I can get it to stop pinging :-)

After my 100k service, I was getting a very slight pinging at WOT, if the fuel being used wasn't much cop, but this has gotten worse over time, leading me to swapping back to the standard ECU - Pinging has dissapeared with the Std ECU.

No pinging before the 100k, at all.

After speaking to the helpful ppl from Powerplay, their general advice was changing fuel pump, and then I *should* be able to go back to the mine's, after changing the crank angle sensor position, to retard? the timing.

does anyone have any good instructions for changing the CAS? I'm guessing it's very simple, but it's always worth an ask :-)

Boost control differences :

Std ECU - go WOT at 80-100km/h in 5th, boost builds, car goes (albeit slowly) - until in powerband. (at max boost)

Mine's - go WOT at 80-100km/h in 5th, all boost is lost, with sounds like a slow rasberry, car judders a lot... drop to 4th, or 3rd, holds the boost fine, off like a rocket.

I have a turbosmart manual boost control, aka the red tee, with the click control.

the stock solenoid has been bypassed.

Is the mine's releasing the boost through the actuator? - Is it meant to do that?

I think that's it for the mo, cheers,

Zeb

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100137-std-ecu-vs-mines-etc/
Share on other sites

your Mines ecu doesn't control your boost.Boost is contolled by your turbosmart contoller. I run 14psi with my mines ecu and I have no trouble with pinging etc .My factory solenoid is also blocked off. Have a good look at everything,etc plugs , afm, filter, leaking hoses . remember use the KISS method for these things. It's usually a simple thing causing a problem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...