Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just fitted a temp gauge with a sensor mounted next to the pod filter, driving at night, stopping at lights it reached a max temp of 65.5 degrees, hate to think what temps i'd get being stuck in traffic in midday :D

CAI is now priority one :)

Anyone get similar temps???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100147-the-problem-with-pod-filters/
Share on other sites

theirs an easy solution to this, make up an alluminium shroud and place it just behind ur front bar, dont block off the radiator if u can and then run some ducting from the shroud to the front of ur pod. or perhaps just case the pod off because it sounds like ur getting heat soak

A CAI isn't much good if your pod isn't heat shielded.

While a CAI might help drop inlet temperatures once you've picked up speed, it won't do much in stop-start traffic and you'll still get some heat soak.

I've used one of those laser spot temp things, and after a fair weather session at Wakefield there's been a 15-20 degree differential between the engine side of my heat shield, and the metal ring on my pod.

This is what my setup looks like:

20041221_cai_03.jpg

(The other side of the flex pipe is in the front air dam, so its directly in the airflow)

However, around town there's not much in it. While I haven't measured it properly, touching the heat shield and the pod's ring doesn't bring up a noticable difference when I get home after going to the shops.

Edited by scathing

Isaac, if you still have your Airbox, Cut a hole in the side of that for the Piping from your Pod to the Turbo, and Stick some heat proof shield stuff on the inside if you can. That may help with the heat issue. But yeh as intensevil said, it sounds like heat soak.

If you are that worried about it just swap your pod back to the factory airbox. I swapped my HKS Pod filter for a factory airbox with K&N Panel filter and couldn't notice any change at all (and neither could a dyno).

The other good thing about a factory box is that it's perfectly legal unlike an open pod filter.

Yeah i treat shielding as part of CAI, so gunna do both and measure the results.

Still have the stock airbox but no snorkel, so it pretty much would still be gulping hot hot air (remember the airbox inlet is on the engine side aswell).

It doesnt help much that my turbo doesn't have a heat shield too, might get one of those turbo bags..

i just got made up a heat shield from aluminium from bunnings covered the engine side and the top of the filter, and with the old hole from the stock cooler i ran some flexy tube stuff fromt that hole to the meshed vent in my front bar.

ben...

the temperature of the pod filter itself and air intake will be different to the temp of the air being sucked into it. of course being in the engine bay the air will be much hotter than ambient air but if your temp probe is attached to the pod filter or intake piping etc then it will be showing the surface temp rater than the air temp.

the temperature of the pod filter itself and air intake will be different to the temp of the air being sucked into it. of course being in the engine bay the air will be much hotter than ambient air but if your temp probe is attached to the pod filter or intake piping etc then it will be showing the surface temp rater than the air temp.

Temp sensor is mounted in the surrounding space of the pod filter, not attached to anything bar a long cable tie used to 'hold' the sensor in the airstream about 3cm back from the probe, its at least 3cm from the pod itself and probably at least 10cm from anything metal (piping, engine bay etc..) so reading is as accurate as i could make it..

i hope you didnt move your AFM with it...

If you did, therefore changing the amount of air between the AFM and intake, then your computer is reading the wrong thing that the AFM is tellin it.

cheers

nah mate, the AFM its an air flow metering device, it only measures air when its flowing through it, so it doesnt matter if you have it closer or further away from the throttle body as its still measureing the same amount of air.

hope this clears this up

after putting a POD on my car, i noticed it was smooth/quicker reving at HIGH revs, but low down is really really bad and slow... i want to go back to the factory box.

and i think a factory box with a high flow panel is perfectly good untill you start making some real high hp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
×
×
  • Create New...