Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly happy new year to you all, all the best.

I'm droping the oil, changing the sparkies but i come across a problem! I undo the oil filter YET i can't get it out of the engine bay!

Yes you heard right, i can't get it out of the engine bay, sounds stupid but RB26 is a tank engine, i've got an oil cooler as well with braided line but that doesn't seem to be the problem.

I think its the two little motor sitting slightly opposite with the oilfilter that i got stuck with.

Any tips, tricks please give them to me.

Thank you very much. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100240-urgent-help-please/
Share on other sites

that bloody HICAS pump is really a pain.

All I can tell you is that you can get it out.....the hoses for the oil cooler and the HICAS pump are pretty hard to move but they will flex a bit if you need the to.

Thanks Duncan! Worked out now, funny enough i've got my little nephew to use his little hand and still he couldn't get it out.

The little shit came up with a brillitant idea by slotted his finger into the filter hole and guide it out and it worked! Hahaha another word there were just enough room for the filter.

Remote oil filter relocation kit is on the way :P even though i heard you can loose a bit of pressure by doing that.

That depends on how the oil cooler is installed, but generally no since the oil cooler may not drain.

Just fill it up to high on the dipstick, start it and check the dipstick again once oil pressure is up

All fixed. 5 littre of 10w-60 Castrol R. 5 littres bloody hell hahaha.

I also found something supiscous, just under the oil filter there is a sort of brass looking tube, a little one like for a vacum line that's not hook up. I look around but there is no rubber line around anywhere so for now i *assume* that its all safe.

Will investigate further.

All fixed. 5 littre of 10w-60 Castrol R. 5 littres bloody hell hahaha.

I also found something supiscous, just under the oil filter there is a sort of brass looking tube, a little one like for a vacum line that's not hook up. I look around but there is no rubber line around anywhere so for now i *assume* that its all safe.

Will investigate further.

Its a diff breather. There should be a hose coming off the front diff to that brass thing thats bent at 90 degrees

Its a diff breather. There should be a hose coming off the front diff to that brass thing thats bent at 90 degrees

I see, so i'll have to look for that hose then plug it back in! What does it do? Any effect, damage if it doesn't get plug back in?

I see, so i'll have to look for that hose then plug it back in! What does it do? Any effect, damage if it doesn't get plug back in?

Its just a breather for the diff but if you dont put back in you may get water or rubish in the diff so you better put it back a.s.a.p. .

You will see the pipe on the top of the diff the hose should be atached to that .

I see, so i'll have to look for that hose then plug it back in! What does it do? Any effect, damage if it doesn't get plug back in?

Just like wrxhoon said above.

Like all things, having it in its place is good.

First have a look at your front diff, there is a small attachment coming off it. It should have a rubber hose coming off this going to that brass piece which should be bolted to the inlet manifold.

Also i've heard a lot about copper and platium sparkies, i know and felt the different, everytime after Ben gave my car a set of fresh sparkies and oil, the car feel awesome.

Anyway, whats' the different in kw wise between them too? Also maybe we should have a sticky General Mantainance section for GTR?

there is no power diff between copper and plats. Plats are a little more resistent to missing under lots of power/boost.

Coppers are still fine as well - Leewah even runs coppers still :blink:

Wow Leewah runs coppers too?

Is castrol R 10-60 correct? What's the rating telling me?

castrol 10w-60 is the best oil.

its got a great heat range and can take alot. used in in my GTiR and my GTR. when i put my FMIC on the GTiR oil temps went above 120-130 on that guage? still goes hard. such a good blend. i did an oil flush soon as i got my GTR from japan. last "logged" service was 30k ago :|

getting my old filter off was piss hard.. cant even get a ratchet round it. took 30 mins.. it is a bit of a tight squeeze.. glad only have to do it every 3,000kms.

what u running coppers.. whats the part number on that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...