Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

My car's been out in the sun all day today (40+ degrees) and it's not starting now :P

- Battery voltage was fine

- Car has been running good recently

- Fluids all okay

- Enough fuel

I managed to get the car running briefly, but it sounded rough, wouldn't hold idle and eventually stalled. The car is cranking fine, just can't get it to turn over.

I have an 040 that hasn't given me any problems before, but I suspect there's something with the hot day and the fuelling.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100254-r33-not-starting/
Share on other sites

The 040s are known to not run well in the heat.

The seem to cavitate (sp?) and are unable to pump a consistent amount fuel.

What car is this for?

Do you have a fuel pressure regulator.

I was also reading threads yesterday, where people claimed it became excessively noisy, would not pump when fuel tank was below 12l, and was flowing inconsistent amounts of fuel, as well as frothing it up.

hope this helps.

My advice; wait for it to cool down, and next time try to leave it in a shady area. (I found this out the hard way yesterday.)

R33 GTST, std fuel pressure regulator.

Yeah I saw that thread (link here). Since I installed my 040 I haven't noticed it to be a loud pump, apart from it priming when starting the car.

But, yeah, haven't noticed the car having issues in the heat before. Just found it puzzling..

I had a hot start issue when I bought my car a few months back. Was a bad earth to the cam angle sensor. Not sure if that helps but something extra to look at =) (The car would only not start if the engine was hot or had been in the sun, cold it was perfect) Good luck.

Thanks guys.

NRMA just came, had a good look at the car:

CAS fine, still has injector pulse and spark.

Fuel filter was fine.

Fuel pump fuse okay.

No fuel is coming through the lines so the fuel pump has to come out. I'll get the 040 tested and see if it's faulty..

Update. Car had to be towed as I couldn't get the !@#!@$ lock ring off :)

Anyway, pump was pulled and it tested fine, no problems. What appears to have happened is that the EFI hose has weakened significantly where it attaches to the fuel pump outlet (and pressure is the greatest). To the point where it is expanding to approximately the size as my radiator hose :O

As the restriction in the fuel hose is removed, the pump is unable to supply constant / sufficient pressure.

I've only had the pump in for four months, and the lines were inspected when it was installed so it looks like it has degraded gradually over time due to the larger capacity being output by the pump.

Has anyone experienced anything like this before??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...