Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

All 3Ds have air temp compensation but as the Skyline has

no air temp sensor STD the Plugin has it as an option ($20).

Every thing is in the ECU it is only 2 wires and the sensor to

ad, the wire in kits all have air temp comp.

Wolf has boost control. launch control ,basic data logging,

2 full maps that can change instanty ,vvt cooling fan tacho

out put ,idle speed,6 ign drivers ( most others have to batch fire)

plus lots more. You have to buy an SM2 autronic to do this

as the SMC has 1 aux output and the un used injector out puts

can used as outputs but most are used in a skyline any way.

The wolf on paper is short on outputs (6)but boost ,idle,cooling

fan, tacho,and fuel pump out puts are STD out puts and not

Advertised as AUX outputs as others do, the other 6 you can

use for any thing with great control. And we have PC and hand controllers for tuning. The Wolf is bagged by

other shops that can't buy direct from Wolf, so thay set out to

discredit it so they can sell their much more expencive ECUs.

If you want another brand I sell Autronic-Hawk-Haltech.

Wolf are adding advanced Data logging ETC now as thay

intend to go to the top and wont stop till they get there.

And thay are lifetime garrented.

Big words,watch us prove it!

OK Steve....

Why should I get A Wolf V4 over a Autrionics(not sure modelm number but it costs around $2700 just for ECU) or Motec (about $4000) for my WRX.

In all honestly can you see Wolf over taking Motec?

Im just curisous to here your opinion, because i will be investing in a Autronics or Motec in the near future...

Daniel

Is there PnP for r32 rb20 yet? does the full house non pnp have any advantage over the pnp version? How many inputs does it allow? Spark amplifier plug in ability? Am i asking too much from a entry level ECU, i think so.

Ive just heard indifferent stories about wolfs over time. But at around 2k installed, what other option do you have?

Steve my Subi is MY00.

Autronics make a plug an play model for that year.

For the WRX the guys who seem to know recommend Autronic or Motec... a couple of the guys have forked out the extra and bought Motecs ( these lucky basterds are also running Holinger gearboxes).

From what i have seen in the rex circles. Autronics + vf22 + intercooler = 12.5 -12.8 all day every day.

LagWagon,

The older wolfs did deserve there reputation as a cheaper ECU, but know they have come out with a new one which does compete with the big boys. Motec still have an advantage as a full race computer, but for the price the Wolf does more then most of us will ever need.

See'ya:burnout:

There is an R32 PnP and it runs the nissan amplifier sequentualy

not batch fire as most other ECUs. The PnP is based on the

V4-4 Top model ECU and has 6 inputs-outputs + the STD ones

like Boost, cooling fans, Idle. Good price not entry leval any

more. PnPs are always the best as thay are made model

specific and run functions wire in kits don't.

The Autronic is hard to beat on a WRX ,ask most rally teams.

We do have MY 00 Autronic PnPs and some good start up maps.

Hi Steve-SST, good to see some of the performance shops getting online to share some info!

I am looking at going Wolf 3dV4 'real soon now', once I have my exhaust and FMIC on, but I have a few quick questions that this forum seemed to be addressing:

- Can you still use the stock AFM instead of the MAP sensor setup with a Wolf3d V4 plug and play version (or even the conventional), and if so, whats your recommendation (the car is a daily driver, stock turbo, but chasing good power but still good throttle response in traffic).

- Why would removing the BOV and repplacing with an external venting one make lag worse? I understand that with a non-recirc BOV the ecu it will richen up on gearshift, but surely that is offset by being able to dump the pressure more effectively, and becomes irrelevant once you remap for it?

Thanks again, good thread!

Conrad

I'm not sure if I agree about the factory BOV theory.

Given that the stock one is a bleed valve also it feels terrible when bleeding the majority of boost while driving.

Plus the diaphragm in mine felt like it was constantly leaking boost all over the place, which meant that if it was going to be driven hard then it wouldn't spool unless you really gave it a boot.

The TurboXS type H valve which I replaced the stock one with feels fine though, and I've had no stalling issues with it at all. They hold boost really well and allow the turbo to spool correctly.

However the stock cooler chokes on itself =(

I chose the aftermarket BOV (flow purposes) for now only because I'd like to hi-flo the turbo and get hold of a fmic also at some point soon.

  • 6 months later...

Sorry to dredge this up but anyway... :shake:

rob77, I didnt notice a post after the install, hows the cooler?

I'm looking at getting a Trust kit as well, but am not sure what size to get considering my intended mods?... H240/L600/W76 or the H276/L600/M76 both V-SPL's

Current mods:

- Full 3" exhaust

- Air Filter

- Dual stage BC

Future mods:

- Power FC

- HKS 2530

- CAI

- Fuel pump

Actually, I wish I used a different supplier than the one I did. Nengun will get you a v-spl for around $1200 delivered to your door (if you are in perth, a bit more for eastern state poofs :P ) Bear in mind the vspl does not use the stock intercooler engine pipes, ie: the intake manifold pipe comes up from the other side of the engine bay (its meant to be used with the trust plenum) so you will have to do a bit of modifying if you plan on keeping the stock plenum which I would in your case as you dont need it with such a small HKS turbo. That nengun price is also about 6 months after I got mine, so it could have price dropped, either way lets just say I payed top dollar and shouldnt have. I still believe the jap cores are a much better design and flow the air better and if you can get one from negun @ $1300 it'll be cheaper or around the same as an australian one. As you can see from my signature below i've upgraded the turbo to suit my intercooler and now all thats left is the wolf3d ecu and a tune ;) It will be going in this friday to have the following done over the course of tuesday and wednesday (cos monday is a public holiday and its stuffed up my plans). Injectors removed and sent for cleaning and flow testing, re-fit injectors, quick compression test to see if there is any low compression before we tune it and lean on the engine, change the spark plugs, fit wolf3d and tune it :) I hope to hit 370rwhp @ 1bar or less :) Was supposed to be fitting a HKS exhaust cam gear today, but rev210 hasnt called me... hopefully I can get it put in before the ecu tune otherwise I'll have to go back for another tune.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...