Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Anyone know what the X-Force turbo back exhaust systems that JustJap sell are like?

I noticed that they come with an adjustable silencer... Do they cut power down heaps? I'm assuming you would have to balance it between power and noise...

Any feedback is helpful.

Thanks,

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100895-x-force-exhausts/
Share on other sites

Ok lets have a look here.. the x-force exhaust is about $600 excluding a CAT.... another $200 for a half decent CAT and another $100 - $200 for fitting... so approx $1000 for a bolt on cheapish system... Personally you could spend approx the same kind of money you can get an exhaust shop to custom make a 3" mandrel bent exhaust, high quality dump and high-flowing CAT and you can also angle the cannon the way you want it... get 2 years warranty and is MUCH better quality... thats my 2 cents...

If your in the sydney area i will be more then happy to help anyone with getting them a great deal on a custom exhaust system from liverpool exhausts... what have you got to lose?? let me know if your intrested..

Regards,

Sarkis

They are good for the price, see link below for a thread I started on the Xforce systems about a year ago - heaps of info and a long review.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=54115&hl=

Friend had an X-Force titanium on his S15. Not bad for the money, the welds were a bit shit through and after a couple of times of scraping the ground ripped apart. You get what you pay for I guess though, so overall it was pretty good :P

I have a stainless Xforce exhaust on my s15. Because they are a mass produced item the fit is very average. I am going to get a custom cat back made up that will quieten it down and will fit a whole lot better. I just find it a bit noisy as well.

That said, a friend of mines r33 gtr has a 3.5in xforce from the turbo back which is nice and quiet and the note is perfect along with the fit.

If you are planning on purchasing one to run the silencer in it all the time I would stick with a stock exhaust. The level of back pressure the silencer creates can often be more than a stock exhaust.

An exhaust is only as good as its smallest orifice.

FYI - The custom catback I am having made up is mild steel with a stainless cannon and a very high quality straight though centre muffler (which will do almost all the work. Cannons do very little!). Cost is $600.

Hope that helps.

James

I picked up an Xforce turbo back 3" system for $650 including hi flow cat and stainless cannon. Fitting was about another $200.

The silencer cuts down the noise noticeably, but looks like shite. Without the silencer it was tested at *just* under the legal db limit at the specified rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...