Jump to content
SAU Community

Where To Mount My Amp

heslo

By heslo,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

d00dz Grand Master

d00dz

Posted
Posted
is that a custom made back wall yeah? the factory 1 is too weak to hold amps?

any 1 got any ideas for somone with a strut brace...2 amps, and a 12" sub?

yep it is..

its made from MDF.. with the carpet type material covreing it.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Well.. that's exactly what i'm planning to build!

Dezz.. that should work for you. The back part has enough surface area to hold two amps. I'm going to make a hole on the right-hand side to fit the sub. With the strut-brace, it won't hold a 12", but i'm looking for 10" atm.

gw d00dz!

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted

ill be boxing the 12" and putting it in the boot probably off to the side. the factory wall wont hold 2 amps from what ive been told. im not going to take off my strut brace though, so id either have to work out a way to put a fake wall over the factory 1 while keeping the strut brace, or do a false floor and have the amps under it...

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

dezz do what i did, rip out the side flooring stuff and build a box (up to the manufactures requirements) and fit it in the corner/s (if you have 2 12" like me)

then put the amps in an amp rack on the right side of the battery, then put the divider back in and hey presto!

i'll get some pics for ya soonly

Ruffels Veteran

Ruffels

Posted
Posted

wellat the moment.. zip ties :D... LOL! but back when that photo was taken i used the factory wall mount to secure the new wall.. although after several months and some heavy cornering.. the facotry wall mount snapped.. so i dont advise using this.. especially if you have heavy amps lol

but at the moment im working on making brackets for it to screw into the roof of the boot like the pics above posted by d00dz i think it was

Ruffels Veteran

Ruffels

Posted
Posted

even with my setup, i still have enough room in the boot to put a large rectangular bag to go away somewhere ... so its still fairly roomy (considering how much was there to begin with.. also my sub can be removed in under 10 seconds... so if i need the space its no big deal!

NeoGTR34 Explorer

NeoGTR34

Posted
Posted

What ever you do, don't mount the amp onto the sub box as when you get those deep bass beats you'll rattle the internals out of the amp. If your looking to mount it somewhere to keep the max boot space and keeping the look sleek mount it under the front seat(passengers side).

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted
What ever you do, don't mount the amp onto the sub box as when you get those deep bass beats you'll rattle the internals out of the amp. If your looking to mount it somewhere to keep the max boot space and keeping the look sleek mount it under the front seat(passengers side).

Not entirely a problem these days. Amps are built pretty well and you'll get vibrations anywhere it goes simply from driving the car.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Well.. I made the battery-cover idea that I had illustrated earlier.

Used 1200x600x12 MDF. Trimmed it down to size, cut off the angle piece, got some 90 degree brackets and bent them to something like 20 degrees, reattached the angled piece, drilled out the bolt-holes and it fits.

Only problem now is either spot-welding the nuts to the back of the stock mounts or working out some other way of bolting/unbolting the damn thing.

The bottom sits perfectly on my spare tyre, nice and tight... so hopefully it won't vibrate against the metal anywhere.

I've also drawn the line of the strut brace and the floor of the battery-area, and now i'm going to measure that distance up and see what sort of sub I can squeeze in there based on it's magnet size.

Then hole-cutting and carpeting. *phew* And this is after a 12 hour nightshift with no sleep!

ross80 Rising Star

ross80

Posted
Posted

I love my skyline but I have just bought a pretty decent stereo. Whats someones thoughts on what it will sound like?

It consists of, top of the range rockford fosgate head unit, 2nd from the best kicker splits in the front, top of the range pioneer 6x9's (the yellow kevlar ones) and a jbl amp which is 110watts rms per channel. Is this a good match up? looking forwared to driving down to sydney with this cranked

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...