Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Im looking at the HKS T04Z and the 3 exhaust housing sizes available and deciding which will be the most suitable for my built RB26.

My question is, with my car being predominantly a street car with occasional drag and circuit work, which housing size will be most suitable?

According to the HKS catalouge they are available with a .61, .81 and 1.00 housing, and so far the common opinion seems to be that the .81 is the go.

I realise the garrett and HKS equivilents are much the same, but is anyone here actually using on of the HKS versions?

Thanks

Nick

:rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101130-hks-t04z-which-exhaust-housing-size/
Share on other sites

People who talk about them say they chose the .81 for RB26's (HKS version) . The turbine is a TO4 P trim which is very common in the turbo world , Garrett do heaps of different a/r TO4 P trim exhaust housings in T3 or T4 mounting flange pattern and single or twin entry (split pulse) . Some are saying that the spanky HKS drilled compressor cover is unnecessary because that TO4R compressor is not prone to surge .

If I was buying one I'd get the Garrett version because I cannot afford the extra ~ grand for HKS particularly since the cartridge/wheels are identical . Also I don't think these need the huge T4 mount flange pattern that HKS versions have . I have a couple of snaps of one with the TO4S .70 a/r comp cover and can't remember which Garrett exhaust housing .

Cheers A .

post-9594-1136716497.jpg

post-9594-1136716533.jpg

post-9594-1136716922.jpg

Thanks mate, im looking at the HKS version purely from opportunity as I can pick one up for a decent price while im in Japan in a few days.

Any idea on response that could be expected from the .81?

Response will be pretty much similar to the Garrett version (if not identical)... theres a few threads in forced induction, I think someone made 600 odd hp at the rears and on full boost before 5000rpm.

I know someone who grabbed a Garrett one with the .61 rear housing on a standard capacity RB26. On 25ish psi it made 370kw at the rear wheels and is on full boost before 4000rpm, but it runs out of puff top end (possibly too small turbo).

Seems the .81 housing is the best all rounder, providing power to redline and fairly responsive.

Thanks mate, im looking at the HKS version purely from opportunity as I can pick one up for a decent price while im in Japan in a few days.

Any idea on response that could be expected from the .81?

my personal option would be as follows....street RB26...0.61, street/circuit RB26...0.61, street/drag RB26 0.81, street RB27/28 (ie. stroker) 0.81, street/circuit RB27/28 0.81, street/drag RB27/28 1.00, street/circuit RB30...0.81, drag RB30 1.00.

this is only my personal opinion.

hope this helps mate

Paul

Edited by DiRTgarage
Paul, I would lean towards street/drag if anything, and I would prefer to go for the .81 than buy the .61 and find it falls short

If leaning towards street/drag then the 0.81 would be my choice with std capacity and crank...as per my guide.

good luck with your purchase...(bastard!!)

certainly seems like the .81 is preferrable, im running GT-SS's now and its because of their top end 'lack of puff' that im entertaining the idea of a single conversion :blink:

Simple answer = 2 X 2530

:D cheers :)

Simple answer = 2 X 2530

:wub: cheers :D

or Garret gt2560r x 2 (pretty similar results)

i still am amazed none has tried to find out what the IHI turbos are on the Z-Tune personally i think the turbos nissan pick for there ultimate gtr after 15 year of development might be pretty damn good.

pete

ps if i wanted nasty street/drag twin gt2835 hks kit or twin gt3071r

Simple answer = 2 X 2530

:wub: cheers :D

but that was not the question....

you are correct though...a street/drag/circuit GTR is great with 2x HKS 2530's

its the best all round turbo for the RB26...

this is only my opinion...

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...