Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, my r33 shows a little under halfway mark on the factory guage, around +3 (~ 6psi???) when at peak boost, and never once gets any higher, as i have an exhaust and pod, i would think it'd go higher than this, at least factory spec.

My mate recently tried doing the high boost mode solenoid trick, and played around with some of the solenoid hoses, could he have screwed something up in this area, ive attached a pic, though i think he may have the top and bottom hoses mixed up on the solenoid, can someone please confirm.

Also we recently tried fitting a boost tap to my car, to no avail, could someone, pleae edit my picture and show me how to fit it correctly, using mspaint or something.

thanks in advice

post-6529-1136760449.jpg

Making your vacuum hoses as short as possible is a general requirement for any sort of boost controller. Long hoses cause lag in boost response and inaccurate boost pressure.

It could also be your boost gauge. Get a cheapo analogue gauge and test with that.

the factory guage isnt in psi...so on stock boost it only goes to about half way in the positive side...even doing the boost trick it doesnt go much higher on the stock guage...u need an aftermarket guage to accuratly know what its doing....by the way in doing the boost trick ur cutting the black wire and putting it to the chassis yes? because in that thread there was a bit of confusion about which wire it was...ive done this to my car and it is the BLACK waire that needs to be grounded...

its not going to 3.5 though....only 3.......heres a picture of the high boost mod, and yes white is grounded, could that be the problem???

how do i put the boost trick back to normal as i have got a boost tap which i want fitted, so i dnt need the boost trick now or do i???

post-6529-1136772306.jpg

Edited by nsta

i did by some new vac hoses for the solenoid to factory t-peice, but its not broken, and definitely tight, i just cut the hoses for a tight fit, so its not lenghty anymore........does it matter if the hoses are on either top or bottom of the solenoid?, as it seems to not make much difference when i drive!

havent tested the car yet though i will soon, can anyone tell me how to fit the boost tap to my car...

Edited by nsta

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...