Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1990 Skyline GTSt and the speedo just stoped working while I was driving along.

I have found that the part in the picture has a few small cracks in it and I think that is what is wrong.

It mounts between the end of the speedo cable and the back of the cluster.

Has this happened to anyone else?

Does anyone have one?

I also noticed that the Hicas light came up at the same time.

I am thinking that they are related and when I fix the speedo, the Hicas will be fine. does anone know?

post-10715-1136787609.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101231-speedometer-stopped-working/
Share on other sites

It happened to me twice in the space of 2 weeks.

first time i replaced the speedo cable (the bit you have falls out on all of them eventually, it should be captive).

The second time i replaced the cable and the speedo drive as the original one ate a s/h cable in 2 weeks (actually under 500kms)

the speed sensor is on the back of the speedo so when the speedo goes, the hicas goes. It comes back when you replace the cable.

In the mean time you can get away with putting the cable back together, it'll work for 50km's if you're lucky before it falls out again.

When you replaced the cable, was that little plastic bit seperate or has my end snaped off?

Was your problem the same as mine with the plastic bit split?

I've been to wreckers but they will only sell the complete cable.

thanks for the help.

It happened to me twice in the space of 2 weeks.

first time i replaced the speedo cable (the bit you have falls out on all of them eventually, it should be captive).

The second time i replaced the cable and the speedo drive as the original one ate a s/h cable in 2 weeks (actually under 500kms)

the speed sensor is on the back of the speedo so when the speedo goes, the hicas goes. It comes back when you replace the cable.

In the mean time you can get away with putting the cable back together, it'll work for 50km's if you're lucky before it falls out again.

What wears over time, is it the little plastic thing or the end of the cable?

Would the rest of the cable be ok?

I'm hoping to get away with just replacing that little bit.

The piece you have is supposed to sit inside the end of the cable. There is a little lip in there that wears over time. You'll see it when you get a new cable.

  • 5 weeks later...

my speedo cable just snapped on my r32 gts-t and i took it to my mechanic and he reckons that it is common among these cars. he also said that because the hicas can't sense the speed so that why the hicas is playing up. just hope he is right :rolleyes:

all,

the speedo cable inner is supposed to be a one piece item that you cannot remove - I know - I built speedo cables for 2 years. The pic in the original topic starter is the speedo drive end with a short piece of speedo cable that has snapped off. This usually happens on high km cables OR cables which have sharp bends in them. When you replace a cable - ensure you have the largest radius bends in the cable routing - ie no sharp angles. Sharp angles prematurely wear the inner until it gets 'whip' in it (the speedo needle will bounce at low speed) - increasing in bounce up to maybe 40-50kms just before it expires and breaks. Find a gauge repairer in your area that builds speedo cables and they can make an inner cable for you if you take the original inner an outer cable in to them - or you could drop the car off and pay a bit extra for the labour of remove and refit the cable. Hope this helps :(

Blue32

oh,

the hicas probs are definantly related to the broken cable - no speed sense pulse to the computer causes it to spack out. I experimented with a switchable speed sense pulse to the computer on my r32 - to disable the 180km limiter. Result: limiter is disabled but the pwr steer/hicas spacks out and gets real heavy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...