Jump to content
SAU Community

Engineers, Anyone Know Any? Prefer Melbourne


Recommended Posts

hey thanks man!

hrmm thats gay, i read it all and it says it only lasts 30days, i though it was somthing you can carry around as proof your car is all legal. My car is already registerd with the rb25det so no dramas, but you know, the police :P

Being registered with an rb25det does not mean it is legal. :unsure:

But i didn't know about the 30 day thinggy.  There must be something that is permanent.

well yeh, other wise i couldnt register the car, its cause its a smaller capacity i got away with it.

ive been pulled over, no dramas, i have all necersary upgrades, so i mayaswell get somthing on paper to shut up the picky cops

what that means is for example....i put a rotary in say a nissan micra i got 30 days to get to vic roads to get it registered or let them view the vehicle to change there database..

but they wouldnt register it with out the proper upgrades

But i didn't know about the 30 day thinggy.  There must be something that is permanent.

The rules were changed when the VASS scheme was introduced 5 years or so back, basically to bring engineers certificates into line with RWC practices (ie expires after defined period if not presented to VicRoads). The certificate is 'permanent' once accepted by VicRoads and goes into their records, the owner also gets a copy (or should) from the engineer. That is: original to VicRoads and car owner also gets a copy.

well yeh, other wise i couldnt register the car, its cause its a smaller capacity i got away with it.

ive been pulled over, no dramas, i have all necersary upgrades, so i mayaswell get somthing on paper to shut up the picky cops

Al is right, it's not legal. Doesn't matter that it has smaller capacity - quite apart from the fact that the power output is more than 10% over the standard engine's output, the Rb25DET wasn't offered as an option for the R31. You need an engineers certificate - if nothing else your insurance is invalid.

mate all i can say is what ever you do even if u live next door to this bloke dont even bother going to him. Guys to f*@#en strict.

PAul bottemly and hes in heidelberg

A really good engineer ive found to be is Archie Robertson hes in bayswater

Spot on. If you get pulled over they will ask for engineers etc and if you cant produce them you'll get a fine and i'd say have your registration cancelled. IF you've done things like upgrade brake system etc then you wont have a problem getting an engineers cert. What was said about the 30 days was also spot on. You have to produce it to vic roads for it to be vaild, after that laminate it and store it in a safe place.

mate all i can say is what ever you do even if u live next door to this bloke dont even bother going to him. Guys to f*@#en strict.

PAul bottemly and hes in heidelberg

A really good engineer ive found to be is Archie Robertson hes in bayswater

Archie is alright but he picks on so much little shit, like the rear numberplate. The distance was spot on perfect and met vic roads regulations, But i still had to shave off 1mm either side of the plate so that there was a small gap between the plate and the reverse lights. I asked him what that was about considering cars off the showroom floor have those number plate plastic surround things and all he said was vic roads told him to make me do it. Too much little shit.

Is this for an engineers cert. If so you'll have to get in contact with Vic roads and get a list of engineers off them. Sanjay or something like that out of warntirna south is pritty good.

He is forgetful, and changes his mind every time he looks at your car. He's also in Glen Waverley, and will come to you. I don't have his details though.

Will charge $500 for an engineers cert. Inc. chassis and structural inspection. And braking distance and fade test.

Went thru this process when I had my R32 RB25DET

just to clear up some misconceptions, doesnt matter engine capacity, R32s even came out with Rb25DE and they said I still need a engineers.

Engineers can be real picky if they want to be as well with certain things.

Cops dont care if ur cars registered with it or not, you get the wrong copper and he knows its a conversion, thats it, I was a bit unlucky because the RB25 didnt look outta place in a R32, but in a R31 it certainly does.

I dont really see the huge point in getting it engineered anyway, theres still EPAs and defects to worry about, thats why I sold the car. As someone mentioned, for insurance purposes as well, it can be a problem.(even if you have 3rd party).

Some people choose to take the risk and run without changing anything, you most probably would get away, but theres always that chance.

I dont really see the huge point in getting it engineered anyway, theres still EPAs and defects to worry about, thats why I sold the car. As someone mentioned, for insurance purposes as well, it can be a problem.(even if you have 3rd party).

but still, it being engineered dose help!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
    • Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • f**king around with the bro
×
×
  • Create New...