Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i currently have a r33 s1 gtst with a cat back exhaust,pod filter and bov i was wandering what would be best do do first i was thinking of getting a front mount intercooler however i was wandering what i need to do to get a full turbo back system i dont know much so any help would be great ive been reading around and dont understand a whole lot :blink:

My list would be

1. Coilovers Or springs + shocks (can get d2 for about 1500 install in perth)

2. Heavy Duty Clutch ($800-$1000 install)

3.full exhuast ($1000-$1200)

4.Fmic ($250-$300 for a china-cooler and about $500-$600 for piping)

5.Rims (anywhere from $500 to over 2k)

An exhuast system in a turbo car goes like this

Turbo --> Dump --> Front Pipe ---> Cat ---> Tip

so basciy u have the cat-back which means to get a turbo back system u will need to buy a front pipe and dump pipe.

You can get a Dump and front all-in-one pipe for around $300-$500

-I think rims are important not becuase they make the car look good but they increase the size of tyre on your car which helps with traction, and most of the time when you get rims you buy good tyres too

How much are you looking to spend?

Cheers Michael :blink:

well i hav 17's with brandnew rubber the rims arnt special but i guess there sumthing and the suspension i bought the car from paul at autoworx and he told me the suspension was a racing type which were adjustable from what i hav felt its very hard sorry for my lack of knowledge im still young

npz sammie :blink: we all start somewhere :)

here are link to a dump + front pipe

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=74022

also check out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p?showforum=141

as there are alot of Business Traders which supply the parts your looking for.

are you from perth?

and maybe u could help me with another question i been wanting to ask but havnt posted yet, im confused with boost how it works and what boost controllers do and how people talk about 7psi,12 psi etc and how they can adjust it

if you can take a photo of the suspension tops, or the suspension itself (turn the wheel so you can see under the car more)

FMIC, will not really give you more power by itself, it will allow you to run more boost which in turn will give you more power

i say go for getting a full turbo back exhuast system and you should gave abit of power

and maybe u could help me with another question i been wanting to ask but havnt posted yet, im confused with boost how it works and what boost controllers do and how people talk about 7psi,12 psi etc and how they can adjust it

ok i give this one a shot, im not an pro so it may not be 100% correct but should give you an idea;

a turbo compress the air flowing into the engine, so you can get more air into the engine.

Boost is basicly the compressed air being pushed into the motor, so the more boost you run the more compressed air being pushed into the engine BUT that doesnt mean you will be getting more power. each turbo has its own Efficiencies range, which for a rb25 turbo is around a max of 12 to 14psi once you go over that the turbo will not make anymore power or you risk blowing it up as the wheels inside the turbo arnt steel.

A boost controller controllers the level of boost, you can get Electronic boost controllers or Manual ones ---> EBC you can adjust the boost lvl inside the car and manual ones you have to open the bonnet and turn it

michael

alrite thanx alot um mayb in a private message or on here u could maybe explain to me about boost how it works etc psi and stuff ?

i see what else i can think of and send you a pm later tonight :blink: i uses to be a young sauwa member and i remember how much there is to learn about turbo cars and skylines and how hard it can be at times :)

after reading through some guys alot of people recomend to finish off my exhaust do you think this is a good idea ? iwant something to give a little bit more power and does anyone know roughly how much a dump pipe and a front pipe will cost me ?

after reading through some guys alot of people recomend to finish off my exhaust do you think this is a good idea ? iwant something to give a little bit more power and does anyone know roughly how much a dump pipe and a front pipe will cost me ?

great well im defintely considering buying the split dump and front pipe from the link above im not sure if i hava high flow cat i will have to speadk to the dealership where i got it from but i will do that first get the front and split since it will give me some kw's and i was wandering how come batmbl is selling it for so cheap ? i was looking at the xspeed site just a normal hks front pipe is around $600 and a turbo dump pipe is around $450 ? any reason why batmble is selling for so cheap ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...