Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i want this redline oil for my 32 GTST..

how much do i need, and how much does it cost..

also, where do i get it??

do a search, there are threads relating to redline oil.

please keep this thread to the reverse engaging problem!

can i just remove the reverse lock out instead of fixing it?

premo if you removed it (well more like disabled it) you could end up:

Driving down the F3 in 5th gear, then reach for 4th to overtake someone, miss the gate and engage reverse by mistake... you can guess what happens next

Good idea to think of it, but not a safe option.

Hey guys,

Thanx for the diagram. Went and bought the spring from my local nissan dealer, a whole $2.20. Replaced hte slave cylinder as it was leaking, clutch feels smoother and a tad lighter. I think hte worn slave contributed to the 'stiffness' of getting into reverse, hence the spring (hope it is) being damaged.

Got under the car and couldnt see hte access plate on hte passenger side of the box below the shifter.?? is it in an obvious position? looked behind hte pipes, didnt noticed anything.

Think im just going to find a shop familiar with r154 box and get them to replace the spring for a small cost in labour. Have taken out a few boxes in my time but this one looks to big and heavy lol, specially without access to a hoist.

thnx

mike

premo if you removed it (well more like disabled it) you could end up:

Driving down the F3 in 5th gear, then reach for 4th to overtake someone, miss the gate and engage reverse by mistake... you can guess what happens next

Good idea to think of it, but not a safe option.

Its a drift track car. So I take it I could just remove it ???

luckily I only needed a push twice out at the track.

Edited by =premo=
  • 5 months later...

bump!

sounds like i have the same not going into reverse issue. damn GTR's cost too much. well thanks for the info guys. i love the search function. will have this sorted in a few days hopefully and post up what happens.

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...