Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi my r30 is playing up it has the l24e motor.

Its hesertating really bad anwere between 2500 and 4000 rpm. If i give it 2 here it seems to happen at any rpm.

i have just put new spark plugs leads and repaired the distributor. i have set the timing to 10 degrees. and the motor is running alot smoother since i bought the car. also when i bought the skyline it had been running on gas and had it taken out before i got it and was tuned to gas is the timing the only setting changed when try to switch back to petrol.

any help would be grate as i am getting very frustrated lol :worship:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101555-l24e-acceleration-hesertation-help/
Share on other sites

ahh its still doing it after replacing leads. if i gently build up speed with little accelerator there is no hesertation right through the rpm range but as soon as i give it any more it starts hesertating again. could it have anything to do with the trottle valve switch?

i just cheaked my air flow meter with a muti meter and im geting a connection from one of the pins to the body and its not spose to be could the problem be my air flow metre ???? has anyone even read this post ??

i just cheaked my air flow meter with a muti meter and im geting a connection from one of the pins to the body and its not spose to be could the problem be my air flow metre ???? has anyone even read this post ??

It's quite possible the AFM is the problem. It's a mechanical 'flap' type with the flap operating a variable resistor arrangment. Over time things wear and problems like this can occur. It's also possible you have an air leak - check all vac hoses, etc. I don't have my R30 WS manual anymore so can't help you there. It's really a question of doing things by the 'numbers' - check timing, valve clearances, sensors, air leaks, etc, etc.

Edited by SteveL

im pritty sure its the water temp senser sender unit that im gunna replace in the morning off my other engine im not geting any resistance throught the terminals of the the one in the car. have tested resistance of the good one with some hot and cold water works grate so hopefully thats all it is :P:):P

water temp sensor has nothing whatsoever to do with the way your car runs.

have you changed the lead that goes from the coil to the distributor?

could also be a faulty coil.

the water temp senser is needed on the l24e so the computer can change the length of pulse sent to the injectors if it wasnt working the computer would think the motor is still cold and make the injection pulse longer there by making it richer untill the motor warms up. there is also a termotime sencer that controls the cold start valve in the intake manifold witch is only acdivated when the cranking the engine when water temp is lower then 10 degrees... anyway i think i accually found the problem because it had been running gas there was a relay that disconnected a wire to the drop resistor so i connected that wirer but was still running rich and fouling plugs.

the problem was that the full trottle switch. when the car idled the contacts where closed on the idle contact when the accelerator was pushed becuase of the gas settings it was amedently close the full trottle contacted making the fuel 2 rich for the rpm of the motor so i ajusted that switch so it closed at just under full trottle and its running like a gem... would loved to get it dino tuned im sore it would run even better.....carnt wait 2 take it for a bit of a drift lol anyone know of any performance upgrade for the l24e or does anyone have a l20et menifold and turbo for me :);) ill pay what ever i can get together... i cant beleive they could be very dear anyway ill post some pics tomorrow ill get a photo of taking it off the clock witch it does really easly suprisingly its got a far bit of balls the old nissan. been it alot of standed na vl dunnadores auto or manal and my skyline is alot quicker witch is cool cos the vls a rb30e GO THE L MOTORS!!! :lol: :lol:

hope these pictures get me some more replys its like i been talking to my self on this topic? :P

its going really well does anyone know what i should be geting on fuel per km???? its a fairly fresh motor.

also y does my motor run like shit with the water temp senser pluged in and water is hot i have installed a new one and it does the same thing its like when it warms up its keeping the fuel to rich but the senser is fine and has been tested ???/ anyone got any idears??? with it disconnected it runs really well will it hurt the motor disconnected?

luke

post-25795-1137411166.jpg

post-25795-1137411250.jpg

post-25795-1137411325.jpg

post-25795-1137411428.jpg

the water temp senser is needed on the l24e so the computer can change the length of pulse sent to the injectors if it wasnt working the computer would think the motor is still cold and make the injection pulse longer there by making it richer untill the motor warms up. there is also a termotime sencer that controls the cold start valve in the intake manifold witch is only acdivated when the cranking the engine when water temp is lower then 10 degrees...

my bad, i was still thinking carby versions.....

/slaps self

should the full trottle switch only come on at full throttle?????? or what trottle possision should it come on and will it hurt my motor not running a water temp senser?? it runs perfectly without it... runs like shit even if i connect a different one???

shouldnt hurt not running the TPS. at most u will use a bit more fuel. i think it is mainly for making the auto kick back a gear, when u nail it.(not the only way it does it tho)

I have had my TPS disconnected for over a year on my l20et auto and no problems...that i know of anyway

The kick down for the auto is at the pedal.

Edited by george.bryant

Couple of thoughts:

Is the Thermotimer switching off?

Is the Cold Start Air Corrector (the round bit just behind the throttle body) working properly?

Is the Cold Start Injector switching off (I've actually disconnected the plug from mine, still starts OK)?

Couple of thoughts:

Is the Thermotimer switching off?

Is the Cold Start Air Corrector (the round bit just behind the throttle body) working properly?

Is the Cold Start Injector switching off (I've actually disconnected the plug from mine, still starts OK)?

hi all

thermotime switch working but shouldnt afect when motor is running as it is only acdivated when the keys on the start and only if its water is below 10 degrees

just rebuilt the distributor

the trottle top speed switch was coming on to soon richening the fuel 2 much should it only be acdivated when the trottle is at the floor ??? or when anyway it rus really well till that full trottle switch is on then it hesitates and shit

leads are new and plugs

just pulled the the fuel rail and injector assembally off my other r30 i think its in a bit better condition its a serise one 82 model they would be the same wouldnt they they look it to me but better hoses and shit

also y will my car use more fuel with water temper senser disconnected anyone got any thoughts i wouldnt think it would cos it runs so nice soon as i plug it in it runs rich and f*ks up have tried another one still the same thing?? any thoughts??

O and how much fuel should it use its a 5 spd manal been recondition motor and box and irs lsd?

post-25795-1137576452.jpg

post-25795-1137576535.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...