Jump to content
SAU Community

Slowly Losing Power...

Dee 33

By Dee 33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dee 33 Community Regular

Dee 33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

Just under a year ago I spent a nice dose of cash on my stock R33 Gts-t. Enough to net me a wonderful 240rwkw. Enough to light the tires in second when boost came on. A very healthy dose of power.

Now as I've had it in this state for almost a year, I've gotten used to the power. This is expected. But you know how sometimes you say to yourself "It doesn't feel as fast as it used to..." and you wonder if it in fact is as fast as it used to be.

I had my car in at Mercury getting a service/wheel bearing done and I asked them to throw it on the dyno.

Well I get back in to my car and see the dyno sheet waiting for me when I pick it up. Alas. My fears are true. My baby only pulled 200.6rwkw. I know something is wrong because I have enough mods that I should be killing that figure.

460hp T04e

Wolf3dv4

Fuel pump

FMIC

Malpassi

16psi

Full zorst

Taking a look at the power curve, it's perfect. It's one of the smoothest curves I've even seen and the car still runs flawlessly. No misfires, no choking at low revs, nothing... except for the fact that I've lost a ton of power somewhere on the way. I can guarantee it's not a difference in dynos either because my mate pulled 173rwkw in his S15 with just cooler, zorst and boost on the same dyno which is hell high for those mods.

So my question is, what could it be? The guys as Mercury noticed nothing when servicing the car and it's been a gradual loss of power. I know because even with bald tires on the rear I'm no longer losing traction when I used to.

The only thing I can come up with is that it might be my engine getting tired and so I'm planning on getting a compression test done. Would this probably be the issue? Worn rings or something? If so, am I actually looking at getting a full rebuild rather than just replacing some engine parts to get that compression back up?

Any help is appreciated. I was about to get cams and injectors done but I'd rather find the missing 40rwkw first...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102031-slowly-losing-power/
Share on other sites
AdamsR33 Mentor

AdamsR33

Posted
Posted

It would actually be harder to smoke 'em up with bald tyres because there is more rubber in contact with the ground, acting like a slick tyre. the tread is there only for when it rains so to channel out the water. Mate you might be heading in the right direction about compression, also don't forget the difference could be a number of things, fuel, temp, and different dyno, it only takes couple of differences and they all start to add up. hey keep us posted as i'm about to spend some cash on my 33 soon.

warriorbrawl Contributor

warriorbrawl

Posted
Posted

Yeah I had my car dynoed there recently (very happy with the service) but it seemed a little low on the power readout but same deal good power curve and ARF's.

It aint the coolest weather at the moment and that can be like 10-15 kw there. Maybe there dyno is a little on the low side.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...