Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the novelty of blue wears off quickly once u realise how hard it is to see in daylight and on angles.

but any standard sized (182x33.5mm) 40x2 module can go in. just this one im getting will be wide temp and very good viewing angles compared to most.

I trust your opinion! Can't wait for them to be ready so give us a heads up and I will make sure I have the coin ready!

BTW, VERY IMPRESSIVE! I hope it all goes well!

  • Replies 152
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Because of your obvious commitment to this project and the value of the information displayed I am prepared to pay $200 upfront now to be first in the que to get one.

Let me know your details for payment and I will await the finished product or be happy to do beta.

Thinking about it though it would have been ideal to replace the std three gauges in the centre console but its probably great in a mountable enclosure as well.

thanks for the offer turboX - i dont want to however take any prepayments as its puts a bit more pressure on me to get them done in a reasonable timeframe.

i havent seen a 10x4, but the aspect ratio wouldnt be good for something that u want to be slim so its not too tall to stop ur gauge view if you mount on steering column. 40x2 is good cause it can be mounted in many places without too many issues, and has enough character space to get all important sensor values out.

im expecting shipment of the LCD's and a few other components to arrive today. then im waiting on the prototype boards (10), hopefully get them next week some time. from there ill be able to make 1 or 2 for my own testing, and when a final component shipment arrives in anywhere from 1-4 weeks from now, ill be able to get out maybe 6-7 prototypes, without enclosure. ill be sending one prototype to the enclosure place for them to make enclosure for it - roughly 6-8 weeks from then i should have enclosures, and be ready to start getting some final ones done. in the meantime i should have final pcb's and all other components ready for maybe 15 initial orders, then hopefully another 25 soon after.

unfortunately i cant bring price down too much on components as its a double edge sword - if i go over 1000$ on a shipment, i get hit with 15-16% customs/import duty. but to buy certain things like LCD's in bulk, i need to go over $1000 to get reasonable prices.

i still am estimating delivered cost of final thing to be $200 or below. costs (such as import duty/gst) keep piling up, so its hard to keep costs down. probably best to stop speculating till i have the enclosures done and have final costs of everything added up.

im hoping the final software will include fault code checking and clearing of codes. and it should definitely include the integrated consult interface.

Edited by NewKleer

got 12 (2 free!) prototype boards delivered today. they look decent, some arent perfectly rectangular but we're only taking 0.5mm difference. wont have time to test any till wednesday. the two custom components on the board (buttons and switch) fit well so thats good.

- if i go over 1000$ on a shipment, i get hit with 15-16% customs/import duty. but to buy certain things like LCD's in bulk, i need to go over $1000 to get reasonable prices.

Good work! Can't wait!!

Would you not be able to organise them to ship in say lots of 10? Due to the small size shipping should pay for itself if the price is right... Just an idea!! (Although you have probably thought of it already! :( )

customs will take into account multiple packages over some period (not sure what the period is) to stop ppl splitting it up. only real way (legal way) to avoid it is to not spend over the threshold in a given time.

might be a bit hard to get the place that sends it out to split it up even if i wanted to, as their ordering etc process is very fast/efficient and to a given standard. i guess i could find out if i can pay for. something i can look into anyway, but we're only talking about $4 per device added due to customs, so not a huge amount.

i can just buy in lots of 10+ from now on for practically same cost, which is good as less money up front etc.

Edited by NewKleer

ah, no prob! I figured you had thought of it (espesially sine you have enough brains to invent and build this device!) :(

Happy to pay $200 for it!

One of those things that you want the first run upgradeable (and updates freely availible) for future waves if enlightenment :).

Edited by CATKICKER
One of those things that you want the first run upgradeable (and updates freely availible) for future waves if enlightenment :).

am i the only one that has any idea what you were saying here? :(

Put me down for one, sounds great. Probably a silly question, but I'm assuming that you won't be able to see variable cam timing etc for the 34, or any of the extras that the neo engine has?

the device is generic to be able to be used on all nissans, so even if specific stuff for the neo's existed (not aware of anything) then it wouldnt be used for non-neo owners. theres always room to move things around at a later date, but at this stage ill be focusing on the generic stuff applicable to all nissans.

btw, if its not clear, this is whats on the display (see pic on page 1):

line 1: speed, rpm, battery voltage, economy, injector duty cycle, ignition timing

line 2: AAC %, o2 sensor, coolant temp, AFM, TPS

pretty much said it already, but here's a rough update:

1) received 12 prototype boards. if no defects/errors in boards, then the final boards will be the same as these. already have a few minor perfections, nothing that effects the function or appearance (only ease of construction)

2) i can make 12 devices minus their enclosures (think i have all parts), probably this weekend. i may sell around 8 of these to those interested (can supply enclosure then when they are available). of course assuming the boards ive got have no errors or anything

3) one of these devices will be sent to to enclosure makers for them to begin making enclosures in about a week (regardless of whether theres any error in the boards, they dont need them working, just need them for sizing considerations). then in between 28-61 working days (6-10 weeks) the enclosures will be finished, and by then id have made a fair few devices ready for this. so an optimistic target may be end of june for mainstream ones to be ready. may be a slight increase to this time if they need to send me enclosure to verify its ok etc.

prices are still looking to be around $200 max (including assembly/testing, enclosure, delivery), i will be trying my best to make these as affordable as possible, so i hope i can keep end price under this, but a few things have been out of my control (customs dutys, normal pcb manufacturers being unavailable). I of course need to make sure im not losing money too...

Edited by NewKleer

Couple more pics, this time of a built display minus enclosure of course. You can see the switch on the top pic sticking out, this switches between consult lcd and consult interface. 3 buttons will be on final device to left of these, sticking out similarly. pics taken without flash to show backlight

protolcd1s.jpg

protolcd2s.jpg

Edited by NewKleer
  • 3 weeks later...

just an update to let people know that uni/work for me will be really busy till july 1, so probably wont get much done by then. however the enclosures are still the thing thats holding things up - so it might be the case that i dont have to actually do anything till then myself anyway.

  • 1 month later...

prototype enclosure was made, see pics here. need to make a few minor corrections to it, which ive sent thru, and manuafacturing of first lot of enclosures will be before end of july. also getting final pcb's manufactured soon (made some changes to pcb today), then will need to order a few parts, then ready to make them.

hey

I really like what your doing here.

I bought one of impakts diagnostic tools a fair while ago and i love it....

Some of the features that his has that i think would make yours better would be

- Add a peak hold funtion (like on his). This makes things so much easier... especially for duty cycle, rpm etc.

- work your TPS sensor out. on impakts tool it seems to know 0 - 100 percent throttle position on every car i've plugged it into.

Features that would make yours far more superiour...

- Reading and clearing of fault codes, Ecu reset. Huge thumbs up.

- 0 - 100kph, 0 - 200kph times etc... also 0-200 & 0-400m times?

- upgradeable. enough said.

I really like yours so far... kind of prefer his screen however.... if his was in an ever so slightly smaller case, it would fit into the ash tray holder.... yours just looks a little strange being so long and only 2 lines...

I hope those comments have helped you :thumbsup:

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...