Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday, heading to my first car track day this weekend at wakefield saturday...

Anyone else going to this?

Never been to wakefield, never been in a car either so hoping it's gonna be alright and not too busy...

Anyone been to their no limits days? any good bad comments? specially going on weekend?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102460-wakefield-track-day-sat-21st-jan/
Share on other sites

They are good. I'm going tomorrow if anyone is keen to join me.

$40 Wakefield licence, $90 for the day. Passengers allowed but they pay the same as drivers.

Weekends are busier for sure but you will still get plenty of track time. There have been heaps on there lately so it shouldn't be too crowded for you.

Make sure you prepare your car beforehand and keep your eye out for fellow skyliners to talk to.

I wrote this ages ago which you may find useful.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pe=post&id=2785

would much prefer a weekday but with a new job it makes it hard :'(

thanks for the link, a nice read... i'm sure it's very similar to the bike days...

just wondering what it's like with other cars out there and passing and stuff.

they say passing only on the straight... what happens if some1's up your ass the whole time or visa versa... would suck to have to spend the lap following them/following you...

either way should be great!

Burnsey

People are usually very polite about it. Keep an eye out for the faster cars before you get on the track and then move over and wave them past when they come up behind you. Hopefully others will do the same for you.

Watch out for wankers in evos diving under you on brakes in the kink at the end of the straight and stay away from all the S15's. They can't drive :D

Wakefield is the first track i drove on (bathurst doesnt count) and its really good for first timers

Abo Bob is exactly right about the other cars

You will have heaps of fun - id go if my CV didnt explode on friday night

I'm going down oon sat with a mate in another r33 gtst been to a couple before I would highly recommend it - good value and wakefield is the best track for your first time (plenty a space rond the track for mistakes - thats why I'm going there again).

hahaha...no chance of going for me! last time i went was on the penzoil day out ...and blew my engine..it has been confirmed..BLOW ENGINE PEOPLE!..let me just warn everyone....dont go unless you are willing to live with the consequesnses...haha...me?....rebuild i hope :O think positive! woooossaaaaa

Wayne ended up going to both to wakefield as well as Eatern Creek had a good day with a couple of mates but very hot could only do 2 laps slightly hard before water temp was above a hundred need that oil cooler. EC is a heaps better track especially at the end after learning some lines following Paul around.

I think i may have seen you out there reedy.

I was the white series 1.5 with it's hood up for most of the day in the 2nd row of garages...

after the first session, found out my oil line to the turbo sprung a leak... so rest of the day was passengering in my mates s15. had one drive of his car and got ~1.16 hand timed i think... not too bad for a car i'd never driven....

Getting the problem sorted and new brake fluid for next time!

hopefully get some decent consistant times...

Hey Abo bob, what mods are you running while getting those sorts of times??

Thanks

Burnsey

Hey Reedy, does your r33 have a FMIC or a stocky?

Maybe whack in a twin pass rad + a oil cooler, should cool things down a bit.

I've got a track day at Wakefield in a couple of weeks in the DatNats '06. B)

Ports i've got a FMIC, looking at a couple oil coolers bellow believe I need a thermastat as well? Whats a twin pass radiator?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=101031

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=81255

Sometimes a FMIC can restrict airflow into rad.

I found this info at UAS:

TWIN PASS MEANING WATER FLOWS IN AT THE TOP, ACROSS, THEN BACK THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE CORE, SO IT IS IN AND OUT ON THE SAME SIDE WITH A DIVIDER IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DRIVERS SIDE TANK. THE AIR GETS TWO GOES AT COOLING THE WATER. WE HAVE DONE TESTS THAT PROVE THIS COOLS BETTER, EVEN COMPARING TO A THICKER AFTERMARKET SINGLE-PASS CORE RADIATOR. THIS UNIT HAS MOUNTING BOSSES FOR THE FAN SHROUD AND A RIDGE AT THE TOP TO LOCATE THE FACTORY ALLOY FORWARD PLATE.

A BOOK BY THE NAME OF "FORCED INDUCTION PERFORMANCE TUNING" STATES:

"A TWO-PASS RADIATOR WILL DUMP 15-20% MORE HEAT THAN AN OTHERWISE IDENTICAL CONVENTIONAL SINGLE-PASS RADIATOR"

These are used on most V8 supercars.

So I guess you should give the 'cardy man' a call, aka J Penlington. :PBJ:



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...