Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

While driving my r33 gtst today i heard a noise under the car pulled over and there was a sensor that had fallen from somewhere scraping under the car. So i got the car home straight away and put it up on the ramps assuming it was my o2 sensor however its after the cat in the middle of the car on the passengers side and the wire runs up through a gromet to a fitting underneith the passenger seat. However after a closer look i realised that there is another sensor further up the exhaust which is obviously the o2 sensor. Does the r33 run a temperature sensor in the exhaust? I cant figure out where it has come from or what it is.

The sensor is damaged so i need to know where it is supposed to go and what it is so i can replace and fix the problem.

Thankyou for your help,

Regards

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102654-exhaust-sensor-fell-out-s/
Share on other sites

From what you have described it is the exhaust temp sensor. I'm not familar with the temp senor arrangement in the R33s but the R32s have a sensor/switch which screws into the CAT. Unlike the R32s the R33s exh temp sensor is monitored by the ECU (signal wire is Pin 57 and earth for the sensor is Pin 30).

If you have an aftermarket CAT its possible no provision exists for the sensor in which case it was left loose after installation of the CAT.

Can you take a photo?

Hope this helps

Cheers

Edited by BH_SLO32

Its a CAT Temp sensor.

So.......

Dont worry about it. Its just used for a dash light, serves no other purpose.

Its perfectly safe to tuck it up under the body, or remove it all together if you wish, your choice. Wont hurt the car by not having it

I havent used my since day one of owning the car.

Not has anyone else thats changed thier CAT as far as i know as most non-factory CAT's dont have a hole in them anyhow

From what you have described it is the exhaust temp sensor. I'm not familar with the temp senor arrangement in the R33s but the R32s have a sensor/switch which screws into the CAT. Unlike the R32s the R33s exh temp sensor is monitored by the ECU (signal wire is Pin 57 and earth for the sensor is Pin 30).

If you have an aftermarket CAT its possible no provision exists for the sensor in which case it was left loose after installation of the CAT.

Can you take a photo?

Hope this helps

Cheers

what do you need to do to stop the exhaust temp light from flashing on your dash all the time as i have a faulty sensor

O ok well that would be the case then you see i have a trust turbo back exhaust so its all aftermarket. The cat included there is no provision for it. It must have been sitting on that cat itself which was providing enough heat for the warning light to be off for the majority of time while driving. I was concerned that the heat sensor would impact the engine by if the sensor was saying that the exhaust gases were to hot that it would run more fuel to cool down the temps. Are you certain that this isnt a case and it serves little more then a potential light show on my dash?

As i said, im am 100% certain. I havent run it on my car ever. Its just tucked in there.

Its only an "over temp" warning for the CAT. Ie its getting to hot, which for anything other than a stock car... is probably gonna happen.

Just tuck it back under there :)

hefer81 - If your light is faulty - you'll probably just need to rip out the globe :) Although i havent heard of one every playing up.

Or maybe see under the car where/what your sensor is upto.

I have taking my sensor out completely as the ligth was staying on as it was damanged from draggin on the road. This made the light on the dash turn off so im just going to leave it out and put the gromit back in. This wont be a problem will it?

I have taking my sensor out completely as the ligth was staying on as it was damanged from draggin on the road. This made the light on the dash turn off so im just going to leave it out and put the gromit back in. This wont be a problem will it?

No problem doing this. If by removing the sensor the light has turned off, the problem has been solved.

sweet thanks mate all finished ive plugged the hole back up lol i used a despent .22 long rifle shell to fill the hole in the grommit where the lead went through into the car to block it off so water doesnt get in there :(

  • 2 weeks later...

I have had this exact same thing happen on my GTR it is good to hear that it is not causing any harm, my warning light also flashes constantly, i will have a set of nismo gauges soon so when that comes i guess i will just pull the globe. My exhaust is still stock does anyone have any suggestions on how to block the hole?

Sorry for the tread hijack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...