Jump to content
SAU Community

10psi Ok After Fmic?

nsta

By nsta,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nfi Community Regular

nfi

Posted
Posted

10psi will be fine. Some people run 12psi with no problems at all. A friend of mines old series 2 used to run 14psi with no problems at all.

It is common though for the ceramic wheel to come off the turbo above 13psi. At 10psi you would have to be unlucky.

The safest thing to do is put the car on the dyno and wind the boost up. Might cost you $60-80 but will be well worth it to have the peace of mind.

James

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted
10psi will be fine. Some people run 12psi with no problems at all. A friend of mines old series 2 used to run 14psi with no problems at all.

It is common though for the ceramic wheel to come off the turbo above 13psi. At 10psi you would have to be unlucky.

The safest thing to do is put the car on the dyno and wind the boost up. Might cost you $60-80 but will be well worth it to have the peace of mind.

James

You User id is so well suited to your response

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

I'll put in a little more effort as I have work to do and I don't want to do it so....

considering you have said that you had 7psi before with stock setup, that you have an R33 gtst.

with the new fmic, you have better cooling for your intake air.

so yes you can turn the boost up to 10 psi.

but consider the following.

1 - your turbo's ceramic exhaust wheel may break due to the increase in 2 things... exhaust heat and turbine revolutions.

2 - you will also probably (most likely) start to get a misfire at around 5000rpm with increase in boost as the r33's do this. a simple fix is to reduce the gap of your spark plugs down to about 0.8 - 0.7mm

3 - you have a stock fuel pump - this should be upgraded immediately as a safety measure.

4 - to get the most out of your new cooling and extra boost, you might want to get some sort of ecu (like power fc) or piggy back (like SAFC) so that a tuner can make adjustments to your tuning to make sure you have a higher power output and also safer at the same time.

don't think that 10 psi is a safe limit and that your turbo will not break here.

even when stock some have been known to break.

so you increase it, you increase the risk of kablaamoo for turbo.

Having said that, a stock R33 turbo second hand is about $350

or youo can buy one of MANY garrett turbo's from like $1500 +

good luck

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

Some stock ECUs don't mind 10psi but I think with a FMIC and exhaust your airflows will be a lot higher so you may force the ECU to run very rich and retard the timing (you will then lose power!!)

I am running 10psi but with a PowerFC, a SAFC may do the job - not as tuneable though.

I considered 10psi to be a safe level, but you never know. May last 2 weeks or 4 years. The turbos are getting older now and even R34 ones have gone pop around 12psi.

Depends how you use it. A track day will sort it out. I think I will drop boost presure to 7 or 8 psi if I hit the track.

Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted

Check what it's currently running with an aftermarket boost gauge.. mine runs 0.66Bar (8psi) stock.. after putting on a bleed valve - it spikes to ~0.7ish (9/10psi)..

anyways - yeah - check what it's really doing - than decide.. also depends on how you drive.. if you constantly drive around on boost of course your going to increase the risk of something happening..

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

At the end of the day you cant predict it really. A lot of WRXs boost there TD04s up to 17psi which also has a ceramic wheel, strange the nissan ones are so fragile.

I love the response of the factory turbo. If I replaced it I would like to drive a car with a HKS 2530 and one with a GCG high flow to compare the two.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...