Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just wondeirng if i'll need to trim the fan blade off of my r33 gts25t series 1, if i install my new hybrid gt-spec intercooler kit,.Ive heard people say that with the new gtspec kits, theres no need to trim fanblades?as id like to do it myself, im not too keen if i will have to trim fanblades, as i'll probably ruin sumthing, its the one thing thats stopping me from diy'in the fmic.

One other thing.....my piping doesnt have a nipple for my solenoid going back to turbo???is there another line i can tap into?, or should i be getting a nipple put in?

thanks

Did this not long ago.

I trimmed the blades before fitting it up, and in retrospect probably didn't need to. The pipe going across just behind the radiator sits up pretty high - i would try to fit without trimming, i reckon you'd come darn close.

Otherwise, if you need to cut them - i just did it with wire cutters. it's only the back of the blades that needs attention, anyhow, and just a little snip at 45 degrees should do it.

with the "nipple" - just plumb into either the vacuum line out of the front of the manifold (to the fuel reg) or the one that goes to the BOV.

Oh and btw you won't need to cut the front fan plastic shroud, either (for the aircon fan).

Whole job took about 5-6 hours, and i'm no whiz with the tools :(

some people chop out some of the bumper reo bar to get the cooler to sit back some more .and yes its not uncommon to have to trin about 5 mm off the fan blades to clear the piping . u may also have to relocate your hoen as well in cases

^ Ah yes, forgot to add that a trusty angle grinder was required for the reo bar :(

And you'll need a hole saw too. There's plenty of exciting new homes for your horns when you're putting everything back together.

For what it's worth, when i picked up my cooler i was told that Autobarn installs them for about $100 or $150, (i can't remember exactly how much but it seemed pretty reasonable). But i'm one of those ppl that prefers to do everything himself.

Edited by Beeble

Thanks so much guys, im going to do this tommorow hopefully if i get the time, how much off the fanblades will i need to cut off, and could u please post a pic of where i cut from/to?

If i cut the blades wrong could i do damage to the cooling system in effect?

please help guys, i got the cooler fitted, only top brackets are on, sits nicely, and i will have to relocate the horn, but thats the least of my worries, the piping that needs to go back to the stand piping hole is too short, or so i think, do i need to make the hole bigger or something???ive moved the cooler right back so i cant understand why this is happening.Also with all these hose clamps, how much do of the pipe needs to be over the clamp before i tighten, sorry new to this diy stuff (heheh)

Although you may not have much choice, trimming fan blades is a bad idea coz it might make the fan out of balance and consequently may affect other things like water pump, engine cooling, etc You could extend the piping by having a longer silicon hose from where the washer bottle is, and for the pipe that goes across the engine lift it with a small metal bar and 2 extra bolts.

Ok i'll try that hopefully all is fine. Just wondering........... if i was to lift the pipe going accross the engine, would that not make the pipe hit the bonnet???, and would that affect the rest of the piping that extends to the cooler itself?

cheers

It's quite tricky and yes the top pipe might touch the bonnet as well. Like I said you will need a longer silicon hose (probably twice as long to the one off the kits) and a metal bar roughly 5 cm2 to lift the top pipe clear the fan. That metal bar will be bolted on the where the engine mount is with 2 extra bolts for the top pipe. I havent got a pic for you but hopefully you can understand the mess that I just typed :)

This is a common problem if you get the Hybrid kits. Apparently the manufacturer is too lazy/cost saving to make some other kits that do not touch the fan. If you want a Hybrid cooler, might as well pay a little bit more and get some custom made kits to avoid this problem. But I guess its too late now :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...