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R30? Diff


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I was curious as to where to Buy a Lsd IN qld for a R30 Because i have heard from a Few people Now that the Lsd is a R180 long nose NOt a R200 or r180 short nose(ca18 s13 diff) If this is True Putting a Kaaz 1.5 way Lsd won't just go straight into the diff housing, is there a way to get around this or am i going to have to lock IT :).

any Info on modding the l28e injected to have a front sump and to rev as high as Possible would also help thanks :(

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Oz spec R30 definately uses R180 long nose diff.

Modifying L28 rear sump block to front sump mainly involves fabricating a pick-up which is complicated by internal clearance issues.....but it can and has been done (the sump itself will bolt straight up). The other issue is the dipstick, which is usually done by brazing a tube of appropriate length into the side of the sump - crude but effective.

'rev as high as possible' ??......why ??

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double valve springs ( one inside of the other, will wear out standard cam quickly though) and electronic dizy of the 280zx, thats how i got my old l28 to rev as hard as possible............

R30 has the same electronic dist as 280ZX, with only a slightly different timing curve. L6 engines have double valve springs standard, but they are a rev-limiting factor.

I still say 'why' though....to make power on an NA L-series at 'high revs' you'll need to use a race cam, and the thing will be a dog as a daily driver.

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don't care if its dog as a daily driver won't barely be registered, Note any other engines that can make this kinda revs and Tourqe feel free to constribute(must be compatible with the r30 natuarally), because i want both my cars to rev to 9000revs not just the corolla and will i have to get the cam made up? will it be better to go back to carbi and get the l28 carbied?

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.to make power on an NA L-series at 'high revs' you'll need to use a race cam, and the thing will be a dog as a daily driver.

Some people like dogs.

me being one of them.

torque, at 9000rpm.....for starters you'll be hard pressed to make an L24 rev to 9000rpm, much less an L28, i dont care how much $$$ you have. be reasonable 7500-8000 max

1st things 1st, go pull the head off and go get it ported....a lot. You want the ports to curve in a nice arc from the valve seat as high as you can get them before dropping slighty at the edge of the port. this alone is the key to big power from an L series 6

flat top pistons, total seal gapless rings, RR4 valve springs from Performance Springs, and a 586741(part number) cam from Crow Cams.

get the bottom end sorted by gettting it all balanced and shot peened. you will want a high volume sump and hi pressure oil pump. i seem to recall the 280zx having the best "standard" oil pump. these can be modded to produce more flow.

last of all go and buy an inlet manifold to run triple 45mm webers. (this manifold can also be used if you wish to upgrade to EFI later.)

and three weber carbs. 45mm are the biggest you could run, 40mm will do it but will probably be the weak link.

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THanks for that great INfo Jason, just wondering i have heard that alot of l24 l28 parts are interchangable i was wondering could i do all this to my l24 and upgrade the Fuel system Instead of the Webbers? is it really neccasery to get the bottom end shot peened the Balance sound's reasonable, i have decided a comftable 7000rpm sounds good with aftermarket computer (which one has ecu's available for l24e) or am i better of going your setup ;) would sound the sex :rofl:

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  • 2 weeks later...
THanks for that great INfo Jason, just wondering i have heard that alot of l24 l28 parts are interchangable i was wondering could i do all this to my l24 and upgrade the Fuel system Instead of the Webbers? is it really neccasery to get the bottom end shot peened the Balance sound's reasonable, i have decided a comftable 7000rpm sounds good with aftermarket computer (which one has ecu's available for l24e) or am i better of going your setup :) would sound the sex :D

Jason's info is good, but for my money and a n/a L28 I would go down this path.

Get yourself an L28E engine complete, but it should be the early version with N42 block & head. Bore it 0.040 oversize to 2818cc, get a set of L28 flat top pistons that will get you about 10:1 compression, get the head ported and flowed and for good measure power ported to ensure all runners are equal. For a cam I would use the Nismo works cam, nissan part number 13001-N3626 this cam has a 256 duration and cam lobe separation of 109 degrees. It can be found in most 260Z 2+2 coupes. Identifying mark is C on the end of the cam.

Use a Nissan 280ZX Turbo inlet manifold, 65mm throttle body, off the RB25DE or U12 Pintara and 440cc Supra injectors as a minimum, 460 series 4 RX7 injectors would be better and 550's even better still. A set of mandrel bent custom headers will also be necessary for the HP and revs your looking for and a minimum of 3in exhaust system.

With WEBBERS they have NO emmissions facility and therefore are totally illegal if you intend registering this car for road use.

A race balance on the bottom end will be an absolute necessity if your going to rev it anything near 8000. Some force feeding of cold air will have to be established, the pickup point somewhere at the front of the car. Turbo L28 oil pump, new timing chain and sprokets and tensioner and guides are a must. Shot peening and linishing is a must for 8 or 9000 as it stress relieves the rods, something Jason didn't add was crack testing as this is the very first process, cause if you don't and you throw a rod because it had a hailine crack when assembled will mean instant destruction of an otherwise good engine

For the engine management, the skies the limit, depending how deep your pokets are.

But after all this, there is still one question I would want answered and that is WHY?

On other pages in this forum, it has been discussed many times how power is put to the ground and the optimum tyre size for an R30 is 245/45 x 16. Bigger in diameter the tyre gets narrower and smaller in diameter the result is the same and 300 odd HP at the wheels is the best your going to use and control, more and you will spin wheels everywhere you go.

I have a mate that has 195Kw (260HP) at the wheels in an R30 sedan, he has 17 x 7 wheels with 225/45 tyres and he is now slower point to point than when he had 145Kw (195HP) at the wheels, all because he now spins wheels during acceleration out of the corners.

Another thing to consider is how often you intend to rebuild this engine, as L series 6 cylinder engines, similar to RB engines have a non balance related harmonics problem at about 8000 rpm (RB's @ 7500) run at these revs continuously and you risk bending your crank, do that and it means a rebuild every time.

D

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Are you serious the main reason im going the L series over the RB motor is i thought it would be rebuilt a whole lot less often with those mods to withstand the Higher RPM :) i need a Strong NA engine that is reliable And i really don't know what to Build But i would Much prefer to keep my skyline as i have just sold the ae71 And am wanting a Nice fast car as my new daily Driver is the R30 and the New Drift Car IS yet to be choosen.

thanks for all the Info But i really need to sort out a Rliable engine Build Up for this l28 or l24e im only Hunting for about 200hp is that to much to ask?

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Are you serious the main reason im going the L series over the RB motor is i thought it would be rebuilt a whole lot less often with those mods to withstand the Higher RPM :P i need a Strong NA engine that is reliable And i really don't know what to Build But i would Much prefer to keep my skyline as i have just sold the ae71 And am wanting a Nice fast car as my new daily Driver is the R30 and the New Drift Car IS yet to be choosen.

thanks for all the Info But i really need to sort out a Rliable engine Build Up for this l28 or l24e im only Hunting for about 200hp is that to much to ask?

Ghostriders recipe will yield many more horses than 200. But remember that NA power takes much more 'effort' than turbo power when it comes to engine complexity (machinst costs etc). With an NA setup you will only get >100% VE in a very small rev-range. Whereas with a turbo, 100% VE is something you'll acheive through a very wide rev-range. Even a low-boost (4psi) setup will give you about 30% increase in power & torque over standard, all with completely stock components.

NA is a great thing, but the recipe is a fine balance between power & driveability. I've got 200rwHP out of a dead-stock L28E, automatic at 9psi boost. It's just as civil as a new car, but propels my 240Z at quite respectable speeds when asked to.

The same engine, after being reconditioned, with the same gearbox & diff produced 90rwHP without the turbo, some 100,000km ago...

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