Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People

I really need help. I went to pump petrol, got out of the car filled up $40 came back and it wouldn't start. My car has been sitting at the petrol sation now for 3 whole days and it's not firing. The engine turns over the fuelpump prims and then nothing. I've changed the ignition module on top of the rocket cover and nothing. I've checked the coil packs and nothing. The problem is that the coil packs arn't firing at all and that's why it's not starting.

I've checked the coil packs and there is a small pulse going to them but apparently it's a positive pulse and it needs a negative or some shit. The sparky had a look at it and i really don't think he knows what he's doin. He told me to get the ignition module and that didn't do anything and now he's telling me to get a new ECU.

The car's got split fire coils and has a microtech ltx12 as well as the standard computer.

So if some one can help me that would be really great.

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/
Share on other sites

If it were a stock engine and ECU the next thing to check after the ignition module is the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) which is on the front timing cover. This tells the ECU when to fire the injectors and the ignition. Your symptoms might suggest the CAS has failed in your case, but since you have an aftermarket system it could also be related to that. You should check the error codes on the ECU if that's still possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898609
Share on other sites

If it were a stock engine and ECU the next thing to check after the ignition module is the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) which is on the front timing cover.  This tells the ECU when to fire the injectors and the ignition.  Your symptoms might suggest the CAS has failed in your case, but since you have an aftermarket system it could also be related to that.  You should check the error codes on the ECU if that's still possible.

How fo go i check the CAS??

i took it off and turned it and it started making clicking noises in the engine bay. is does that means that it's working??

Cheers

anthyony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898631
Share on other sites

Clicking noises are probably injectors, which suggests that side of things is OK (assuming fuel is actually getting to the injectors). CAS also controls ignition. Best way to check is to swap for a known good one.

It could also be something related to the microtech wiring....you say you have that + a standard ecu which seems a little strange to me, but then I've never used m/tech equipment.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898675
Share on other sites

Clicking noises are probably injectors, which suggests that side of things is OK (assuming fuel is actually getting to the injectors).  CAS also controls ignition.  Best way to check is to swap for a known good one. 

It could also be something related to the microtech wiring....you say you have that + a standard ecu which seems a little strange to me, but then I've never used m/tech equipment.....

Fuel is definatly gettin to the injectors cause we checked the pressure in the lines when the ignition was on.

The microtec looks after fuel and ignition and the standard looks after everything else. . Or so i think.

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898681
Share on other sites

Does it sound like it wants to fire? Or is the engine simply spinning over? Does the LTX tell you anything that is happening?

Some things to try:

1. Disconnect the fuel line (return line probably best) and have a container to catch any fuel.

2. Prime the engine. Do you get fuel?

3. If "Yes", crank engine. Fuel still?

If "Yes", then clearly fuel side is working. Re-connect fuel line.

4. Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope to listen to the injectors while cranking.

5. Lift coil pack #1 from the spark plug, insert a standard spark plug lead between coil and plug, connect timing light.

6. Crank engine. Timing light strobes?

7. Failing that, pull #1 plug as well, and assemble the coil / plug and observe if the plug sparks while cranking.

8. Check the earth connection for the ignitor module.

All this cranking, it's quite probable the engine has flooded. You might have to pull all the plugs and clean them up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1899459
Share on other sites

Hi

The fuel side is definatly working we can hear the injectors and we took the line out and petrol went every where when we primed the car.

We checked the spark by taking out one of the coil packs and putting it against a screw driver and no spark we tried this on 3 different coil packs and still nothing. We changed the coil packs and still nothing. I'm going insane.

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1899611
Share on other sites

Hi

The fuel side is definatly working we can hear the injectors and we took the line out and petrol went every where when we primed the car.

We checked the spark by taking out one of the coil packs and putting it against a screw driver and no spark we tried this on 3 different coil packs and still nothing. We changed the coil packs and still nothing. I'm going insane.

Cheers

anthony

How about you go to Repco and buy a $14 HEI spark tester and do it properly...a screw driver can still mislead you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1899689
Share on other sites

Hi peoples

Well it's all fixed. it actually was the ignitor.

what are the chances of me getting a dud from the the wreckers. I couldent believe it when i took it to my tuner and he checked everything and said it's your ignitor i told him that it couldn't be cause i got another one from the wereckers. so we tested my ignitor on another r32 and it wouldn't start. so i went out and baught another one for $150 and she works like a charm.

Anyways went back to the wreckers today to return the ignitor cause it wasn't working and he basically told me to go and get fu*d he said that there's somthing wrong with my car and that's why it wasn't working anymore. Oh well what can you do i guess. Thanks for all the ideas guys. Always helpfull

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1902661
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...