Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all! My name is Calvin and I am from Hong Kong. I am driving a R34 GTT with auto gearbox. Thanks Maxx for introducing this great forum to me!

I read some posts regarding ATF cooler (Sydneykid is very pro!), and I would like to share my experiences and get some opinions also.

When I change the radiator to FWIN 2 layers type, I purposely chose a M/T type, w/o the part for the ATF to go through. For 2 reasons, one is because it is cheaper (LOL) and another reason is because I think it is kind of useless in HOT country like Hong Kong. Right now, the ATF goes to the ATF cooler directly and goes back to the gearbox.

In my personal view, it is for warming up and to avoid the ATF temp drop below working temparature. Since Hong Kong is very hot and a lot traffic jams, I think "warming up" and "keeping" will not be a concern. That's why I chose to bypass it.

What are your opinions?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103340-atf-cooler-related-issues/
Share on other sites

In my personal view, it is for warming up...

Calvin, welcome, that's pretty much it, plus it is generally cheaper for car manufacturers to make auto-trans coolers as part of the radiator. It's a compromise and it adds to the load on the radiator.

It's been shown that replacing the stock cooler with an external oil/air type can extend the life of the auto trans considerably - esp when engine performance is increased and/or the car is used for towing on a regular basis (ie trans load is increased). It is best to mount the new trans cooler in free air to maximise the benefit, but that's not always possible, of course.

I've had many auto cars over the years and the first thing I do is fit an aftermarket trans cooler. Personally I think it's virtually mandatory when the car hasn't been originally designed for Australian conditions (and yes I realise your from Hong Kong ;)).

Edited by SteveL
Calvin, welcome, that's pretty much it, plus it is generally cheaper for car manufacturers to make auto-trans coolers as part of the radiator.  It's a compromise and it adds to the load on the radiator.

It's been shown that replacing the stock cooler with an external oil/air type can extend the life of the auto trans considerably - esp when engine performance is increased and/or the car is used for towing on a regular basis (ie trans load is increased).  It is best to mount the new trans cooler in free air to maximise the benefit, but that's not always possible, of course.

I've had many auto cars over the years and the first thing I do is fit an aftermarket trans cooler.  Personally I think it's virtually mandatory when the car hasn't been originally designed for Australian conditions (and yes I realise your from Hong Kong :)).

Thanks Steve for you reply :)

So it is mainly for "warming up" and it is important for COLD area, for HOT area like Hong Kong, by passing it should have no harm done to the gearbox, right?

So it is mainly for "warming up" and it is important for COLD area, for HOT area like Hong Kong, by passing it should have no harm done to the gearbox, right?

No it's not mainly for warming up, sorry if I gave you that impression. I would definately recommend having some sort of trans cooler, even if your car is stock. It's likely the trans wouldn't suffer in the short term, but the risk increases over time.

No it's not mainly for warming up, sorry if I gave you that impression.  I would definately recommend having some sort of trans cooler, even if your car is stock.  It's likely the trans wouldn't suffer in the short term, but the risk increases over time.

I still have the stock transmission cooler installed, just by pass the hose going through the bottom of the radiator. Right now is the ATF will go through the stock ATF cooler to cool down and back to the gearbox directly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...