Jump to content
SAU Community

Worst Engine Noise Ever!

Psymon

By Psymon,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Psymon Mentor

Psymon

Posted
Posted

Was out cruising last night and i hit a rather nasty bump. As soon as i hit the bump my stereo developed a really nasty engine noise whenever the ignition is switched to ON.

I checked all the wiring at the amp and it is all fine. Could the rca's be shorting against the body of the car somewhere to cause this noise? Or could it be wiring at the back of the head unit coming loose?

I tried a ground loop isolator we had lying around at work today and it didn't make any difference.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know as driving around without music is driving me insane!!!

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Crimpage Community Regular

Crimpage

Posted
Posted

If it was RCA's shorting, it would probably make a scratching noise where as "engine noise" is a whirring sort of sound that you will notice is in time with the car's RPM.

Things to check for:

1. Power cables too close to RCA's

2. Check that you have earthed the amp's properly. make sure to scratch away the paint underneath any amp mounting points. Apparently vaseline is good to help with earth conduction and also help prevent it rusting where you have removed the paint.

3. failing all that, try getting a noise suppressor for the altenator.

Crimpage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
frx026 Proficient

frx026

Posted
Posted

Hi Psymonm

There are a few things that it could be, i would start be checking the following.

- Earthing points for your amplifiers - make sure they are clean and not loose at all.

- Earthing points for your head units

- Earthing points for your battery.

- Amp Power cable connection to your battery

- RCA connection at head unit and at amp

- RCA path to rear of car - especially under the back seat, they may have become pinched, cutting through the insulation and them allowing inducted or radiated noise in.

These are a few of the obvious ones.

really it is just a trial and error thing, there is no real one hit solution to engine noise as every car is different.

Good luck with it.

Regards

Pj

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Yeah, I get that. I try to be as cost-efficient as possible with cars, and typically prefer to buy them at the bottom of their depreciation curve. I was looking at those Bilsteins too as they're roughly in the same price bracket as the BC's - lack of adjustability and being soft put me off, not that I want anything too hard. That's my issue with the Skyline, it's too expensive and it's reflected in my driving. I don't mind going full pelt as long as there's a gravel trap to catch me. Really, proper safety equipment is needed for total confidence. Well this just turned up for the BMW. I'll try and get the front together tomorrow and take some pics of the absolutely horrid rear end; perhaps I'll have a crack at the rear on Wednesday. I need to make the car drivable before the weekend as I'll be driving it over to London.    
    • Orza81
      1993 TH1 Blue R32 Skyline GTR VSpec

      By Orza81 · Posted

      Hi SAU community  Wondering what my 93 Very RARE TH1 Blue R32 GTR VSpec is worth these days?? Build is fairly dated now All Mods are Compliance Approved  Runs RB26 done only 10000ks Greddy T88 done only 8000ks HKS Cam 1000cc Injectors Full Titanium Exhaust Nismo Intercooler Nismo Oil Cooler HKS Oil sump Tein Super Street Coils Cusco Sway Bars RAYS TE37 19x10.5 DYNO street tune makes around 700hp on 98octane  
    • r34.rory
      Hazards not working R34 GTT

      By r34.rory · Posted

      It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back.    thanks for the reply.
    • JC71
      98 ER34 GTT idle races, if AAC is unplugged, then idles perfect

      By JC71 · Posted

      no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost.  As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both.  I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards.    BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
×
×
  • Create New...