Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just picked up my R34 a few days ago. Just wanna know if i should upgrade the security system in it and if so which one to go for? I think the alarm thats in it is a Cyclops alarm/immobiliser. I dunno if i should be spending $$ to upgrade it(if it can be upgraded) or put the $$ to somewhere a lil more useful like gettin more Hp :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/
Share on other sites

Whats your budget for an alarm (if you can put a price on security B) )

I got a Cheetah 777 installed for $500 in June last year. Has all the usual tricks with entry and engine immobilisation plus it won't arm itself if you are near the car with the transponder (working on the car/@ petrol station) and it will arm itself if you forget to press the button and walk away.

There are many on the market, it comes down to preference and what you want it to do....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/#findComment-1910574
Share on other sites

Well i would assume that the alarm i got which came with the car has at least 2 points of immobilisation, i think thats the min standard. Which 2 im not sure. And it's probly got a glass break sensor as well which is the most common, i know there isn't any extra microwave devides. Whether this is sufficient im not sure, just tryin to get an idea of wot u guys out there have got. Ive heard of security systems that will let u know (via mobile) if ur cars alarm is goin off, no idea how much they would cost tho.

Im also plannin to get a turbo timer soon and im not sure how this will work in conjuction with the immobiliser which cuts in 30secs after u leave the car. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the reply Topaz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/#findComment-1911873
Share on other sites

Im also plannin to get a turbo timer soon and im not sure how this will work in conjuction with the immobiliser which cuts in 30secs after u leave the car. Any thoughts?

The guys at Action Alarms integrated my turbo timer into the alarm as well :P. I am not sure whether this was an extra feature from the lower models or not.....

Very clean install as well, I would recommended them

Action Alarms

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/#findComment-1913640
Share on other sites

I got my system from Action as well, I have a key pad as well as tilt sensors, alarm, immob and all the other fruit.

I highly recommend them.

You have more chance of hearing of a break in, into fort knox then my car going walk about.... Between the Doberman, the 12 gauge the alarm and me sleeping in the back seat they have buckleys!!!!

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/#findComment-1920497
Share on other sites

I got my system from Action as well, I have a key pad as well as tilt sensors, alarm, immob and all the other fruit.

These were option upgrades with the Cheetah 777 that I got. I might go back and get them soon :)

You also get a fridge magnet telling you to go back in a year for a checkup of some kind

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/#findComment-1920852
Share on other sites

Nice... i also noticed TKO tinting in there Topaz, r they a good mob to use for tint? For some reason the R34's come out std with the back quarter n windshields glass tinted but not the fronts. So i gotta get just my 2 front windows done, shouldn't cost much i imagine??

R those guys mobile as well?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/#findComment-1928050
Share on other sites

Nice... i also noticed TKO tinting in there Topaz, r they a good mob to use for tint? For some reason the R34's come out std with the back quarter n windshields glass tinted but not the fronts. So i gotta get just my 2 front windows done, shouldn't cost much i imagine??

R those guys mobile as well?

No, shouldn't cost much, my R32 GTR is the same with the rear quarters done :)

last I saw was $245 for the entire car to get tinted

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/#findComment-1928067
Share on other sites

My car was the same, Rears and Quarters tinted and not the front, I went to tint a car or something..... Ummm business colours are red and yellow.....Arh F*ck it, you know who I mean. Cost me $ 120 for both which was pretty good.

And they matched the colour for me.

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/#findComment-1928817
Share on other sites

My car was the same, Rears and Quarters tinted and not the front, I went to tint a car or something..... Ummm business colours are red and yellow.....Arh F*ck it, you know who I mean. Cost me $ 120 for both which was pretty good.

And they matched the colour for me.

Mike

Did they say what grade it was? like 35% which is the darkest legal!?

So your rear screen was already tinted? was that from the factory or previous owner?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/#findComment-1934796
Share on other sites

Don't want to Hi-Jack the thread, They didnt tell me the tint ratio and I didnt ask, if that kinda makes sense...Wink Wink Nudge Nudge.... All I know is the guy at the pits when I was re-registering here in WA, said he wanted to put the light gun on it too be sure, we ended up talking about my drive across the country, Guess he just plain forgot!!!!!

Wether the tint is factory or not is unclear, I am the first owner here in Oz...... I think it is law or something over there that only the rear and quarters can be tinted, Somebody please clear this up for me, as i am not 100% on it.

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103852-security-system/#findComment-1934901
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...