Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I deleted the neo plug in first post, as I could not find it on the nkg website, I've asked before but does anyone know what they are using in the Neo?, the $650 is for NEW stock coils in factory box.

It is confusing yes and with so many things that affect the firing properly I have learnt from this that the best way to track a problem is to check,

1. your coils for cracks and with a multimeter.

2. the plugs for useability and the right gap/heat for the boost you are running.

3. the fuel is the right Ron rating

4. the tuner did a good job of getting it right.

You can cover 123 easily enough but 4 is harder, it is more to do with the timing that is dialed in for the problem phase but would be a rare one I think. And to think all I wanted to know is what plug to use lol.

  • Like 1

$650 brand new coilpacks I would have thought to be a damn spanking good price.

Either way, with a group buy I dont think its worth it. I went down to my local autobarn (which really arent too bad...) So yeah, went down there. Said I want 12 of these. They said come back in 2 days we'll have them. Low and behold they did. $3.50 each or something. So if group buy fails, you know your going to do 'x' changes a year, just stock up.

Have a look over at NGK's web site and check out their part number break down.

The BKR7E plug without a dash something are pregapped at 0.8mm. 0.8mm will be fine.

Throw a -11 on the end and they are 1.1mm.

Also the S on the end will indicate they are a std non v-power plug.

EDIT: They are around $4-$4.50 each.

i removed V powers from mine n replaced them with bcpr7es which worked great for 2 days them felt yrs old, im gonna gap them to .8 this weekend n see.. got rb25 run bout 10-12psi usualy exhaust the usual did i make right decision n should i gap em down? what do you recomend? thanks

Not sure.. I found the standards at 0.8mm would feel a tad flat in the top end vs the v-powers at 0.8mm.

I'm not sure if it was this thread but I remember some one mentioned they had to gap the standards slightly smaller than the v-powers to prevent break down.

If you have BCPR7ES then they are already at 0.8mm. If you have BCPR7ES-11 then they are 1.1mm.

For 10-12psi you most definitely want 0.8mm.

:P

Opinions on ideal gap size?

as large as your ignition system will support. a small spark doesn't set fire to the mixture as efficiently as a big spark. Therefore you should stick with 1.1mm where possible.

however, if your spark gets blown out by running higher boost then you will have to either gap it down or improve your ignition system. guess which method's cheaper!! :D

as large as your ignition system will support. a small spark doesn't set fire to the mixture as efficiently as a big spark. Therefore you should stick with 1.1mm where possible.

however, if your spark gets blown out by running higher boost then you will have to either gap it down or improve your ignition system. guess which method's cheaper!! :D

1.1mm is no good... He will need 0.8mm. Every body who runs boost needs 0.8mm :P

1.1mm is no good... He will need 0.8mm. Every body who runs boost needs 0.8mm :D

either that or buy new coils :D

Edit - should note that I just gapped my plugs in the 31 down to 0.8 - not worth a full set of coils when gapping is that much cheaper!! :P

Edited by Kinks
either that or buy new coils :D

Edit - should note that I just gapped my plugs in the 31 down to 0.8 - not worth a full set of coils when gapping is that much cheaper!! :P

You'll find even new coils won't make any difference to a good set of coils that are not arcing out.

When I say boost I do mean more than standard. RB20's get away with running a little bigger gap for the boost run.

Depends if the origional coils were nackered or not.

If so then yes the spitfires are better. :P

basically.. If your cars running fine, 12psi or over and running 0.8mm gap, throwing a set of spitfires in isn't going to allow you to run a bigger gap. The spitfire coils are nothing more than stock coils painted blue, they don't offer better performance or anything just a new coil that isn't arcing out on its bracket. :D

Not sure.. I found the standards at 0.8mm would feel a tad flat in the top end vs the v-powers at 0.8mm.

I'm not sure if it was this thread but I remember some one mentioned they had to gap the standards slightly smaller than the v-powers to prevent break down.

If you have BCPR7ES then they are already at 0.8mm. If you have BCPR7ES-11 then they are 1.1mm.

For 10-12psi you most definitely want 0.8mm.

when i oredered them in i asked for BCPR7ES and on the box they came in there was no -11 at the end so if there already at .8 what should i do? just upgrade to the V-powers? the bit i dont get is why they worked absolutly awesome for 2 days then went ghey... for those 2 days it felt like new car !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...