Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys n girls.

How many rwkw is the standed rb20det afm good for?

I have a r32 gtst with vg30 turbo, fmic, gtr pump, fuel reg & safc 2. Got 2 get some gtr injectors next and was woundering if i need to ght a z32 afm at the same time...?

thanks for your help:D

Edited by 1990 GTS-t m
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104685-rb20det-afm/
Share on other sites

I'd say not much more than 200rwkw...

it seems the RB25 afm (which has same resolution as rb20) allows tuning on the Rb25 up to about 220rwkw.

considering you would need more boost (air in) in an RB20 to do it, 200rwkw is a good guess.

you would probably get close to 200rwkw with those mods at about 14-16 psi of boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104685-rb20det-afm/#findComment-1926592
Share on other sites

Yeah thats what i would have thought but i read this & it sounds like i would be beta off with the 25.

"The VG30DET BB turbo really is not suited to the rb20. It is much better suited to a large capacity motor that requires a free flowing hotside.

It runs the same chra as the R32 rb20; meaning, the compressor wheel and turbine wheels are exactly the same.

The only difference being, the vg30det bb turbo runs larger compressor and turbine housings.

The rb25 turbo is most definitely an upgrade, it runs the same sized turbine housing as the rb20, (from what ive measured) but has a larger compressor and compressor cover.

The R34 RB25 turbo runs exactly the same larger vg30 turbine housing, with the larger comp cover and larger compressor."

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104685-rb20det-afm/#findComment-1926722
Share on other sites

hi mate there was a topic on this not so long ago. with SYDNEYKID having this to say on them

There is not a black and white answer to this question. Just because the AFM reaches 5.1 volts output doesn't always mean it has to be changed

The only time you really need an AFM upgrade is when unanticipateable changes in airflow occur, ie; not linear with rpm changes. At high rpm (ie; past boost build and camshaft timing effects) this shouldn't be an issue. The fuel and ignition requirements are satisfactorily driven off the rpm change.

Keeping the above in mind, I have seen an RB30 run quite happily on an RB20 AFM at 265 rwkw. I have also had to change an RB25 AFM at 225 rwkw because the airflow changes where unpredicable (ie; not linear with rpm).

I hope this helps you. As i am currently hoping my set up makes 220 an i will be using the standard afm which is a rb20 one.

Cheers Jamie

Here is the other post. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=102519&hl=

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104685-rb20det-afm/#findComment-1933148
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...