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Thanks for the reply cubes.

My plan is to by a bottom end and freshen it up with new pistons and shit, nothing forged just to factory like specs. It will be a motor i have to run in and all that.

I have no plan to push it past SKs recomendation of 475bhp or 290rwkw or 7000rpm. Some of my biggest concerns at the momment are what oil and water pumps im going to use. I dont mind buying these pumps new as i have trade discount but i dont want to go overkill wasting money and such.

Wouldnt a 7000rpm rev limiter do the job of preventing the oil pump/whatever breaking?

I dont see it as much of an outlay to sent the crank to pro engines and have the work done, buy a new pump (r33 gtr?) and fit it all up along with a new r33 gtr water pump.

BUT if i can get away with fitting the rb20 items i have and they be ok/reliable/suitable for the power and rpm then i might lean towards doing that.

Head spin ;)

what turbo is being used?

who is this question for?

im running a HKS 3040 with a 1.12 rear housing ... so thats why i was looking at a higher RPM limit..

still making pretty good power as it is .. but not pushing the turbo at all.

Craved,

When building mine up I questioned the engine builder regarding flooding the head with oil and using oil restrictors.

He said he would prefer to clean up the oil return, basically as you said hone and improve oil return back to the sump.

I checked the amount of oil sitting around in the head last dyno run, unfortunately simply improving oil return back to the sump was not good enough as I could see quite a bit of oil pooling well above what it should be.

God help me if I ran the N1 pump, I am considering pulling the head off and dropping a tomei restrictor kit. :S

I could block one feed off BUT I don't feel comfortable with knowing if there will be enough oil or not.

Do remember the RB30's oil feed restrictors are 1.8mm vs 2.3 or something mm of the rb20/25's.

So blocking off a 1.8mm oil restrictor may indeed starve the head. In the rb20/25 motors you may get away with it due to the larger factory oil restrictors.

Quiz Bu5ter... He's been through it more so than I. ;)

well we know that the 2.3 ish mm oil feeds work with only one feed ..

so we could either have the feeds restricted further - say to 1.1mm

OR block one off and increase the size of the single feed ... not sure exactly if either of these would be possible.. but worth checking.

but at over $1K for the nismo oil pump .. might be happy using the RB25 unit i have here (provided it checks out to be ok)

Wouldnt a 7000rpm rev limiter do the job of preventing the oil pump/whatever breaking?

rev limiter does work on an over rev caused by early down shifts either , which can happen accidently during track work

pick the setup that will match what you are doing with the car. If you plan on doing lots of track work, then see what others are using...N1 pumps?

Mine is mainly a streeter, with occasional track/sprints. I use the rb30e pump, and haven't had any cooling problems.

pick the setup that will match what you are doing with the car. If you plan on doing lots of track work, then see what others are using...N1 pumps?

Mine is mainly a streeter, with occasional track/sprints. I use the rb30e pump, and haven't had any cooling problems.

thats pretty much what mine is for?

mainly a streeter but definately going to be on the track..

already got the 50mm PWR cooler .. so that helps..

sorry to repeat but did you say 294RWKW from the STANDARD rb25? meaning all internals are still dead stock cams head bolts the lot?

only mod i have inside the motor is a set of tomei poncams

running 18psi .

only issue i have at the moment is a faulty WG which decides when and how much boost its gonna use by itself..

here a graph .. this is without changing anything on the car.

edit : hahaha dyno sheet too big .. will get link

Edited by Craved

Thats one weird graph between the red an blue, one is horridly laggy with a big peak, the other isnt laggy with a far better average.

Any idea what why that was dude?

turbo question was for you :P

so your using some sort of race fuel for the 400rwkw i take it.

Hmm... you might not need "massive" cams as with the netter fuel the tune should be able to be not so bad and still return a good range

Thats one weird graph between the red an blue, one is horridly laggy with a big peak, the other isnt laggy with a far better average.

Any idea what why that was dude? 

turbo question was for you  :P

so your using some sort of race fuel for the 400rwkw i take it.

Hmm... you might not need "massive" cams as with the netter fuel the tune should be able to be not so bad and still return a good range

yeah the WG was sticking open causing the different readings... have a new tial 38mm on its way .. and new coils to go in too.

yeah the 275 kw reading had a much better range and alot less lag..

have to get another tune with the new WG to make sure everything is running ok , its hard when the boost levels keep changiog lol

want to get as much out of it on street fuel .. depends on how available the 100 RON becomes.. but its mainly a weekender car, so i can mix up better fuel if i need it.

Solid lifters.

There's a pic of the kit on nengun.

They look like regular solid lifters.. Which makes me wonder, would it be possible to drop gtr lifters in there. :S

I would assume not otherwise people would be doing it everywhere.

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