Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

(sorry if anyone finds this distressing)

i was going to do up my silvia but after reading some of the SEVS rules i thought i might upgrade next year.

as i understand it, under the SEVS 15+ rule, any car 15 years or older (e.g. an R32 skyline GTR) doesn't need to go through compliancing. it just needs an engineers certificate saying it's structurally sound before it can be registered an put on road.

this will have a big impact on the import scene with the prices of '89 cars dropping.

if you have a look at the price of GTR's on goo (japanese only) http://goo-net.com/used/search/maker.html or other sites

one could have a GTR on road in australia for around $20k.

not forgetting what this will do to prices of R32's already in aust.

thoughts?

opinions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10534-thoughts-on-importing-next-year/
Share on other sites

The 15 year old rule for vehicle imported into australia states that these vehicles have to have LO1 compliance. this includes new seat belts, d/side mirror, child restraints, side intrusion bars on cars not 4wd. new tyres, sun visors, dimmer switch etc. allow aprox $1000 inc LO1 plate. an LO1 is not just a normal modification plate.

Now the new Raws scheme is more expensive and vehicles compliance will cost aprox $4,000 to $5000 on average. so this should help keep the value of our vehicles that are already here up.

remember that there will always be people who try to bastardise the prices for their own quick gain.

If the car is cheap there must be a reason, rust? bad engine? speedo clocked?

a genuine import will allways hold its price. the buyers guide in high performance imports magazine shows R32 at $17,000 to $28,000. this is for a genuine car. you can find genuine cheap cars if someone is in dire straights but thats rare.

everyone should keep to the book price and then the values of our own imports stay up.

If you can get a GTR for $20,000 be carefull.... they have gone up in price in Japan not down since nissan stopped making the GTR series last august... they are collectors cars now.

As has been posted before , watch the price of anything 88 in Japan atm.

The japs have quickly worked out the 15 yr old rule. 8mths ago GQ 88 Safari's about 250-300, 000 yen

Now won't get a good one under 450,000.

89 GTR's are already going up cos people are stockpiling for next year.

You will be paying the same for a 89 next year as your paying for 91 -92 now.

Cheers

Ken

Well I was planning to import a car around July/August next year (2004) - Either a Cefiro (1988 or 1989) or a R32 GTSt (1989) and the main reason i want to wait for them to be 15yrs old is mainly because i want to bring in a modified one. Has the rule changed for the 15yr rule? Can you still bring in a modified 15yr old car? Or does it also have to be stock as with the new RAWS scheme?

ryan depending on the engineer and state you are in depends on how modified your vehicle can be for a 15yr old vehicle. it is posible to do them but each case is done individually unlike the new raws as it has a standard to follow each model.

if you need any info ill be gald to advise you

The 15 year old rule for vehicle imported into australia states that these vehicles have to have LO1 compliance. this includes new seat belts, d/side mirror, child restraints, side intrusion bars on cars not 4wd. new tyres, sun visors, dimmer switch etc. allow aprox $1000 inc LO1 plate.

Now not that i'm an expert an the import process, however, to me doesn't all this just sound fair anyway?? If I was driving a 15 year old car that was never driven Australian rules and want it to be reasonably safe and have these checked or replaced at this stage. Now things like new tyres, switches, etc, etc to me are just roadworthy items?? And things like seatbelts, child restraints, mirrors, etc while I'm sure don't cost nothing, aren't too difficult to replace (hell, i can do that).

...hmm - as [ryan] was saying, if somebody knows the list it would be useful to post or provide a link to such information and what is required. There is nothing worse than "floaty" rules, which seems to still be the case with the RWC scheme (at least in VIC).

Personally, while i think prices will rise temporarily, I think they will soon settle down as things such as the V35, and "the next generation" of performance cars come out in Japan. Mind you things like the Rx8 and 350Zx of course being sold locally these will not be able to be imported.

It all really depends what cars are released in Japan that aren't released in Australia as to the supply of these vehicles. In fact i see this decreasing with the steady amount of imports driving around and the desire for "something different" encouraging manufacturers to strongly consider bringing out Japanese models here. The 350ZX is a prime example and i that is one of the reasons I think it has gone on sale here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...