Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Of Gear Box Leak

PhilGTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

PhilGTR Rising Star

PhilGTR

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

I recently noticed right at the front of my gear box where it connects to the engine there is an oil leak near one of the bolts. But its a very slow leak, like after a week in the garage there is a very small patch on the floor. Can someone tell me why it would be leaking there?? Does it need to be tightened more? or too much oil or is something broken? Just wanna know how urgent this will need to be fixed.

I have attached a pic of where it is leaking and circled it. post-23859-1139730510.jpg

Thanks for the help

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105536-front-of-gear-box-leak/
Share on other sites
SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted

It might be the rear main seal, but there appears to be oil staining on the sump further forward in that photo and it might be that the oil is just collecting at the lowest point. Before going to the trouble and expense of removing the gearbox, I suggest you _thoroughly_ degrease the entire area, run the car for a week or so and see if you can confirm where the leak is.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

As suggested.. It could just be the sump pan bolts. I've tightened them on another car, and thats been enough to fix the leak. They often work loose over time.

If you're unfortunate, its the rear main seal, which means the whole gearbox (and flywheel) has to be taken off to replace the seal.

It seems to a common problem in older RB engines. My rb20 has had the same problem for quite a while.

PhilGTR Rising Star

PhilGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
defently do a degrease and see exactly where it coming from from.

if you do have to change the seal, the oem ones cost about $80!! i went for an aftermarket which looked exactly the same and cost me $20.

no probs so far (touch wood)

steve

Thanks can you let me know where you got your seal from for 20 bucks?? :P

sidewazegtst Collaborator

sidewazegtst

Posted
Posted

GRRRRRRR did'nt think of the rear main seal but that's prob what my prob is too. Looking at your pic, it's similar to my issue. It does'nt leak like a sive but when I push the car hard I notice a little puddle and it drips from the lowest point which would be the bell housing of the tranny.

Crap....NOW IM PISSED! :(

I will go through and check that all my bolts are tight but other then the head gasket or rear main seal there really is'nt any other place it could come from. Funny thing is my oil level has'nt really changed at all. :lol:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...