Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Pipe + Dump Pipe (Before/After Dyno Results) - 203rwkw Stock ECU/Turbo


Recommended Posts

my r33 is stock atm except today im installing a K&N poddy, next will be the exhaust, what exhaust would you guys recommend and where should i get it installed ? as i wanna get the best performancew i can get out of a new exhaust except i dont want much noise, jetspeed had a 4" tip that seemed to have a valve u could open and close in it to make it louder and softer which is good for me except i want much bigger than 4" :D something like 5 or 6"s :( can any of you guys help me out plz ?

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by benm

5 or 6" ? for the Rice effect im guessing ?

Ben, haven't you been told? For each inch over 3" it will give you about 10rwkw gains!!!! :eek:

I'm saving up for a 12" muffler tip as we speak!!!! :lol:

Originally posted by predator666

just pull the exhaust off completely... or route the dump to the side drag style. no back pressure at all :D

better still reroute the exhaust back into the cabin, so u will look fully sick when u r cruising and u will feel fully sick in the car 2!! :lol:

I guestimate the afr based on the amount of timing I can give the thing and the new information provided by the S-afc.

Basically, you need very rich mixtures to enable lots of timing and if you run leaner mixtures (ala my new S-afc) you must peg back the timing. If I had 12's at the top end to begin with then I couldn't lean it off anymore than a few % at light throttle at 5000+rpm (just forget even full throttle). And I certainly couldn't run a base timing of 35deg +. 15 degrees is about it for 12/1 AFRs without some toluene.

Originally posted by turbomad

Rev210 why don't you put the car on a Dyno and set the SAFC up properly, what's all this guessing A/F ratio according to timing crap?

Its his toy, if he cant play with it the way he wants, why have it???

turbomad,

Your right the AFR's guessing is crap. I don't give a rats arse what the AFR's are as long as the 'knock' and 'ping' situation is under control and the power is there. It's kind of like the rearwheel horsepower, I don't care to know. It actually won't make my car go faster knowing either. 'Tuning' the thing on a dyno makes a case for knowing but since I have yet to do so....

BTW,are you so sure I haven't set it up properly already without the dyno?

I said before somewhere else there might be a little more (5-10HP maybe) I might get out for the dyno time. Dyno time is expensive and tuning the S-afc is pretty easy with the knock sensor read out.

Does anyone remember the days of carby's and jetting? I never once did any 'dyno' tuning for that. I even tuned a Haletch F7B back in the days when it was new, without a dyno.

Tuning 'properly' does not necessarilly = dyno.

Originally posted by rev210

Does anyone remember the days of carby's and jetting?  

Unfortunately yes - got more than a few headaches trying to adjust mixtures on multi barrel carbs, and as for jetting, I dont even want to start...hehehe, that side was a nightmare.

Steve

MIC33R,

hear what you are saying. Dyno's are a tool for tuning and like sidchrome sockets and spanners I can't afford one, or afford to use one.

It is possible to get consistant results without the dyno in the same way as many people have got inconsistant results 'with' a dyno.

I suppose with or without a dyno, in the end it all comes down to the person doing the tuning. I went to Hills in Sydney because they have a good reputation for their tuning and they don't charge too much.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...